Fillet knife blade material

J

JamesPEmmons

Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
269
Hello everyone,

I made a fillet knife for a friend, from a pre-made blank (Jantz) of 440c. She has returned the knife twice now for sharpening. The knife has only filleted maybe 15 fish. To me the edge retension sucks:thumbdn::thumbdn:. She also put it thru the dish washer and the handle has seperated some:rolleyes:.

I am going to rebuild this knife and I want to remake the blade. I normally build my knifes from O1 or 5160, as I only have a digitally controller brick forge. I need to know if anyone has made a fillet knife from O1 and if so how did it hold up? I know it will require extra maintenence. I have spoken to her about that and it is not a problem. Fresh water fishing only!!

If O1 is not a good choose what other steel I could HT would be?

Thank you,

James
 
Is your friend using a plastic or wood cutting surface. You could stroke O1 accross a granite surface or other stone surface and it will get dull. I am making one out of ats 34 and have tested it on chicken and it has worked very well and held a good edge.
 
O1 will stain which may not be good for your friend, if they put knives in the dishwasher they will most likely not know how to care for a carbon steel blade. I would vote for ATS 34 or 440c with the proper HT, I am making some now from A2, tools steel like O1 but 5% chrome which helps with staining. HT is at 1750 F and air quench but temper is about 1000F for a Fillet knife.

You can send out the Stainless for HT which is a good option.
 
01 will make a fine fillet knife, just rinse and dry after use and let it turn dark. No good knife should be put in a dish washer.
 
James,
Before I started on making my own filet/boning knife out of 1095 I asked a maker a few questions. They had tried using blanks from Jantz, to avoid retooling and making their own blanks. In testing they found the edge retention on the 440c from Jantz to be abysmal which they blamed it on the heat-treat. D2 is also a good option but you will probably have to send it out for Heat treat.
Good luck
 
What about 15n20? I haven't used it, but the ~2% nickel could aid in rust prevention, while still being practically 1075 for edge retention. You could also get it in very thin strips (commercial band saw blades) with minimal grinding needed.
 
I have always used 1/16" ATS 34 and grind the bevels after the heat treatment. A long thin blade is tricky to keep from warping but Paul is the man IMO.
 
I have had no edge retention problems with CPM154. My bro is a commercial spearfisherman and uses one of my blades quite hard. We are talkin 20lb groupers, 60lb amberjacks and the like.

Ditto on Mr. Bos being the man...
 
For fresh water fishermen, I make them out of 1/16" A2. Air quench-the plates seem to warp the 1/16 stock.

I have made some out of 3/32" ATS 34 and surface ground it down a bit on some I made to go to Alaska for commercial use in the Inside Passage by guides. I like the A2 knives better, but for salt water go stainless.
 
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