Fillet knife design

[Atlas Knife Company]

I'd ask this in the makers forum, but I want anglers opinions, not builders opinions.

Well, one of my practice knives has become a great learning experience for me. I've tried several new techniques and had several failures with this blade. I would like to think I've learned from each failure. Now, I've decided to modify the blade from the original design. The steel is from a 14' bandsaw blade, likely made of 15n20. The handle is 6AL4V titanium and will be anodized blue when I am done. I plan to knurl the handle with a "V" pattern, 45° both directions from the spine between the bolts. When finished, the blade be be media-blasted (like it currently is now, but I have to re-do it because of the change in blade design.)

This knife was originally going to be a sandwich knife with corian handles.


Since then, it has become a fillet knife and needs a narrower blade. I need to remove about half of the blade width. Here's my question:
As an angler, which fillet knife design do you prefer, the top or the bottom?

 

[Pete1977]

The blade length, size, shape and thickness/flexibility is going to depend on the type of fishing you do and the type of fish being filleted. Around here we use stiff Dexter carbon-steel boning knives. 1375, 1376, 1377, and 1378 are the model numbers and range from a 5 inch to an 8 inch blade. Very very rarely do you see fishermen around here using flexible knives with narrow blades unless they are cutting up thin flatfish like grey sole.

That said, of your two pix, I would probably go with the bottom one. I like to put my index finger on the spine of the blade when I am cutting fish to get a little more control in certain instances.

 

[dipbait]

I would like to try that top design. If its flexible enough it should excel at removing skin.

 

[oldschool45]

I’d leave it as is and start a new one. If that is not an option I’d go with the top design and hope your technique can handle the offset. Reason being that I think you need the curve at the tip to fillet properly and the bottom design (I almost want to call it a wharnie) won’t give you the curve at the tip.
When I fillet the about the only cut I make that uses more than the last ¾” of blade is the final skin removal one.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Yes, I was trying to get more curve out of the bottom design, but it just isn't there. I can add more curve, but at the cost of a shorter blade. I would start a new blade, but after two cracked handles and going to titanium on this one, I want to keep it out of stubbornness.

 

[sherlockbonez]

The bottom one looks like a boning knife. I like a bit of sweep on the tip for cleaning around the collar of the fish.

The top design looks a bit odd, so I can't comment on how it would work.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Bump, because I plan to cut the blade this week. I just got my 2x72 grinder working, so I want to test it.

 

[panch0]

I am biased on the bottom one in your OP

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Well, I ground the blade off to match the bottom image somewhat. Finally beveled the Ti scales a little. Thanks to all those who gave their opinions!

 

[tonym]

Came out great! Use it well.

 

[Atlas Knife Company]

Oh, it's not done yet. Still waiting on the anodizer. . . .

 

[dipbait]

You picked the right one. I think that design is an improvement over traditional fillet knives, if its thin and flexible enough.