final finish on stabilized woods

Bruce Bump

Bruce Bump

Joined
Dec 2, 1999
Messages
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I am using a great piece of dyed and stabilized maple burl. As you know there are some places that dont get filled with the resin from stabilizing. What do you experts use to fill these small low places. I know about super glue but these are more like micro uneven surfaces after a light buffing. I want a high ploish but dont want to spray laquer. My experiences with the super glue as a final finish left a finish that chips easily. ANY IDEAS?
 
Bruce
Acryloid B-72 may work for you.It is also used to stabalize wood
it comes in pellet form.You mix it with acetone,You can maket it thick or a thin as you want.In your case you will want it on the thick side.let the pellets dissolve in the acetone and then brush it on, it will dry clear and will not affect the dye in the wood.
You way want to give it a look at
www.consemp.com
hope that will you out.:)
 
Nathan Ive never heard of this acryloid b-72 Sounds interesting. Is it something your Dad uses on his custom muzzle loaders? I will look in to it. Thanks
 
Bruce,

For wood with open pores; more than just pin holes, dilute the filler of your choice (tung oil, etc.) with mineral spirits and wet sand. Gently wipe the dust layden oil into the grain with a soft cloth diaganally against the grain. Some will be left on the surface. Let cure and lightly sand to the wood surface. More than one wet sanding will be required. Wet sanding can be difficult for knives because of tang surfaces, bolsters, and such. You can make your own dust layden filler by wet sanding a sample piece of the same type wood and transfering it to the work piece.

For pin holes, dip a tooth pick or similar device in an UNdiluted filler of choice and apply. Let cure and lightly sand to surface. This may take more than one application.

Roger
 
Minwax sanding sealer. Put on 1-2 thick coats, dry it with a blow dryer, or heat gun, takes about a minute. Buff it like that stuff TKS used to sell, across the grain. It should fill any voids.
On stabilized woods I have used and wanted a high gloss on, I sanded to 600+, wiped on a coat of neutral Watco(according to directions), just for some added depth and irradescence, and just buffed with white compound, on a loose buff. That stuff gets like glass. Good luck.
 
I just took some stabilized wood out of B-72 last week and cut it up yesterday to see how well it penetrated. It was all the way through the wood, uniform color. I like it better than anything else I've used, besides it's cheaper than Minwax Wood Hardener or Minwax for rotten wood. By the way, it was scales that I stabilized with B-72, 3/8" x 1 1/4" x 5". I sanded the wood down to 500 grit and buffed it and it came out good. It's the best stuff I've tried yet.
 
Bruce
The B-72 was somthing I found while looking for good stabilzing
material.I see Tom is also using it,It is good stuff
 
Tom, were those 3/8 scales you stabilized in B-72 under any vacuum? Or did you just soak them in the stuff? How long did it take? Thanks in advance. Bill.
 
George, I use the Rit dyes you can buy in Walmart, both liqyid and powered with good results. Yes they were under vacumn for a week or so, 28 to 29 inches. I took them out and let them set for about three days before I cut them up. I like the stuff.
 
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