Final sharpening angle?

shortwinger

shortwinger

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Apr 7, 2010
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I was wondering what the final sharpening angle most of your use on your kukris for a long lasting edge? I'm not interested in cutting paper, just an angle that can take a good day's work and not chip or roll.

Does HI recommend a certain angle on their kukris? Also wondering, do all the different models of HI kukri use the same angle??

Thanks,
Bill
Virginia
 
shortwinger said:
I was wondering what the final sharpening angle most of your use on your kukris for a long lasting edge? I'm not interested in cutting paper, just an angle that can take a good day's work and not chip or roll.

Does HI recommend a certain angle on their kukris? Also wondering, do all the different models of HI kukri use the same angle??

Thanks,
Bill
Virginia
Click to expand...

Far from it... kukris vary drastically in edge profile not only by model, but by kamis and individual pieces as well. Some, like the Sgt. Khadka bonecutters have very steep, wide bevels while others like the AK have a bit more of a thicker edge. Different models for different tasks after all, and some are made with light vegetation in mind while others are made for heavy chopping. As they're all handmade, there's really no consistency and I can't really give you anything specific as far as degrees and angles are concerned.

As for an edge that can stand up to a hard days work, all I can say is what's worked for me: I tend to convex all my kukri blades with a near zero-bevel from the primary bevel. This pretty much means putting the primary bevel flat with the mousepad+sandpaper, then raising it up EVER so slightly. So far this technique has worked for all my kukris.

Oh, also recalled this neat little thread that relates. Worth a read:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715570
 
If you want to use the whole blade, a convex grind (very shallow, like the above poster mentioned) along the belly of the blade to the tip. Then more of a scandi (bevel goes straight to the edge) on the recurved section for better use as a draw knife, making fuzz sticks, notching, etc.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
If you want to use the whole blade, a convex grind (very shallow, like the above poster mentioned) along the belly of the blade to the tip. Then more of a scandi (bevel goes straight to the edge) on the recurved section for better use as a draw knife, making fuzz sticks, notching, etc.
Click to expand...

A+ :thumbup:
That's what I use and it works for me.
I found myself slightly reshaping the bevels to make it wider and steeper.
It gives me better cutting ability while retaining good edge strength for chopping (fat bevel tends to push things aside too soon for my liking although it helps with chopping)

p.s. Forgot to thank Killa for the great link:o ...so many things to learn and see here.
 
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All i've had to do is polish my factory edge so far... very slight convex grind that tapers impressively from the spine. It's amazing how fine of an edge these things have with a spine sometimes thicker than half an inch. So far I like it the way it is.
 
I convex all of mine with 600-grit sandpaper on a hard rubber school eraser. My Sher-Tiger CAK took a ding on the tip that actually de-laminated the steel near the point. I took this opportunity to slowly grind back the tip and edge profile of the entire blade so it is a very shallow convex bevel. I do not put a secondary bevel on any of my khuks. The slicing power is noticably better now on my CAK, than Sher's initial forge bevel. And it still holds up to heavy strikes without rolling.
 
Thanks for the posts. I just got a Wicked Edge sharpener and was trying to get an idea of the last angle so I can then walk it back 1 degree at a time to create (maintain) the convex edge.

I put a scary edge on my carry folder in just a few minutes. This thing is certainly named correctly because it put a wicked edge on this thing fast! I am going to have to exercise some patience because I need a bigger set screw to get a kukri in there. I can barely squeeze the CS Kukri in but I don't want to push it an mess anything up.

I also use the sandpaper and mouse pad method and get good results with most of my kukris. I just wanted to take it up another notch and see what this sharpener can do. I will put it through its paces with a bunch of other knives before I touch any of the kukris. I will let you know how it goes but so far, I like it!

Bill
Virginia
 
Cpl Punishment said:
If you want to use the whole blade, a convex grind (very shallow, like the above poster mentioned) along the belly of the blade to the tip. Then more of a scandi (bevel goes straight to the edge) on the recurved section for better use as a draw knife, making fuzz sticks, notching, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for putting it better than I could - that's more or less what I do, though the recurve tends to be a bit of problem area if you don't have a mechanized way of sharpening. While the belly and tip are just about always a convex grind, the recurve can vary from a steep/obtuse convex to an almost hollow grind depending on the model/kami/individual kukri. If you get one with a steep/obtuse convex edge at the recurve, you'll be hard-pressed to make something with a thin final angle.
 
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