Finally finished my first! And it's not exactly a knife.

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Jan 28, 2011
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393
It's a knork, or at least that's what I think it's called.

http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/?action=view&current=ROB_3566_01_2.jpg

My dad had a stroke a couple of years ago and he only has one good hand now, so he asked me to make a knife for him similar to the one his grandfather had many years ago. I've been wanting to get started making knives for a long time but this was the push I needed to get started, that and lots of great info from the forum members here.

I abandoned the first two blades I started (other designs, one a small utility and the other a paring knife) and I broke the first two blades of this design during HT, typical beginner mistakes, edge too thin, got the blade too hot in the furnace, warping during quench, etc. then I broke them trying to straighten the blades during tempering.

Anyway, I managed to finish this one. It's made of Aldo's 1084, 1/8" thick with nickle silver bolsters and pins and black paper Micarta scales. The bevels are hollow ground using a home made wheel on my wood lathe (I'm flat broke, can't even afford a new KMG, GIB or even a NWG). I attempted to achieve a high polish on the blade, which is probably a waste of time since it's 1084 and is going to develop a patina but I was thinking it's an eating utensil and so a high polish might be more sanitary, at least until the patina begins to appear. And the high polish has lots of flaws, next time I think I'm going to hand sand all the way up to a 2000 grit finish before buffing, like I did on the bolsters and scales, instead of stopping at 600 grit and then trying to polish on the buffer like I did on the blade. A clamp left a couple of marks in the blade at the plunge line near the bolsters, they're too deep to sand out. The pins began to appear in the bolsters while I was buffing the bolsters so I guess I need to peen the pins better next time. The plunge lines and grind lines have more curves than I wanted, way more, I've got a lot to learn about grinding and HT as well, but I guess that's all part of learning, right? During heat treat I had to run the ghetto fish cooker forge at 1530 degrees (digital thermometer and ceramic TS from Auberins) before the blade would achieve non magnetic then quenched in heated canola oil. The edge passed the file skate test but when I was sanding after HT I started getting the impression the spine of the blade didn't harden, only the edge hardened. I definitly need a better forge.

Here's a couple more pics, one of Pop holding his new knork.

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3564_01-crop.jpg

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3567_01-crop.jpg

I've been seeing "Pics or it didn't happen", well here's proof it happened! I really am trying to participate in knife making.

Many thanks to everyone here on the forum, I couldn't have made this knork without all the great info I found here!
 
Very nice work. I like everything about it, especially the fact that it is for your dad. Nice grind, fit and finish look really good. Congrats.

-Mike
 
It's a knork, or at least that's what I think it's called.

http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/?action=view¤t=ROB_3566_01_2.jpg

My dad had a stroke a couple of years ago and he only has one good hand now, so he asked me to make a knife for him similar to the one his grandfather had many years ago. I've been wanting to get started making knives for a long time but this was the push I needed to get started, that and lots of great info from the forum members here.

I abandoned the first two blades I started (other designs, one a small utility and the other a paring knife) and I broke the first two blades of this design during HT, typical beginner mistakes, edge too thin, got the blade too hot in the furnace, warping during quench, etc. then I broke them trying to straighten the blades during tempering.

Anyway, I managed to finish this one. It's made of Aldo's 1084, 1/8" thick with nickle silver bolsters and pins and black paper Micarta scales. The bevels are hollow ground using a home made wheel on my wood lathe (I'm flat broke, can't even afford a new KMG, GIB or even a NWG). I attempted to achieve a high polish on the blade, which is probably a waste of time since it's 1084 and is going to develop a patina but I was thinking it's an eating utensil and so a high polish might be more sanitary, at least until the patina begins to appear. And the high polish has lots of flaws, next time I think I'm going to hand sand all the way up to a 2000 grit finish before buffing, like I did on the bolsters and scales, instead of stopping at 600 grit and then trying to polish on the buffer like I did on the blade. A clamp left a couple of marks in the blade at the plunge line near the bolsters, they're too deep to sand out. The pins began to appear in the bolsters while I was buffing the bolsters so I guess I need to peen the pins better next time. The plunge lines and grind lines have more curves than I wanted, way more, I've got a lot to learn about grinding and HT as well, but I guess that's all part of learning, right? During heat treat I had to run the ghetto fish cooker forge at 1530 degrees (digital thermometer and ceramic TS from Auberins) before the blade would achieve non magnetic then quenched in heated canola oil. The edge passed the file skate test but when I was sanding after HT I started getting the impression the spine of the blade didn't harden, only the edge hardened. I definitly need a better forge.

Here's a couple more pics, one of Pop holding his new knork.

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3564_01-crop.jpg

http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3567_01-crop.jpg

I've been seeing "Pics or it didn't happen", well here's proof it happened! I really am trying to participate in knife making.

Many thanks to everyone here on the forum, I couldn't have made this knork without all the great info I found here!

That's way cool, especially since you made it for your father to use.

I see no reason why you should apologize for anything about it, I'm sure that your father loves it the way it is.
 
That is very cool! I think the curve of the blade will really help one-handed cutting. Excellent work.:thumbup:
 
That is wicked cool. How does you dad like using it? How long is the fork section, from tine to front plunge cut?
 
that is so cool. I want one that folds. put a spork on the end, and then you have a million dollar idea.
 
Railrider1920: from the end of the tines to the front plunge cut is about 1-3/8". It isn't meant for veggies, peas and such, only something that can be skewered after being cut.

Pop really likes it. He also has an Ulu I got from Jantz and put a handle on. Sometimes the Ulu will work a little better, sausage and such needs to be punctured and the points on the ends of the Ulu will puncture where the knork doesn't have a point. But the Ulu doesn't have tines.

Thegeek574: a folder with a spork? Dang! I like that idea! Do you mind if I stark sketching something out? It will be quite a while before I'm able to make a folder but that is in fact my goal.
 
Dexter-Russell still makes a commercially available knife/fork combo. http://www.restaurantkitchenequip.com/cart/product~c~3_54~p~8931.php
Good job, by the way.
-Mark

Uh-oh! I didn't know I was copying someone else's stuff. Am I going to need a lawyer?:barf:

It isn't as if this is an original idea. I'm sure someone on my paternal grandmother's side of the family still has my great-grandfathers knork. He lost all the fingers on his left hand in the crusher while making ribbon cane syrup. When Pop had a stroke it wasn't too long before he asked me to make this one. But it's taken me quite a while to get this finished. There's quite a steep learning curve in knife making.
 
you are probably fine. don't make production quantities, though. as to the folder, I am envisioning a ZT 0300 with a spork. hehehehe, that sounds AWESOME!!!!
 
There's quite a steep learning curve in knife making.
You got that right...and you've done a darn fine job. Nothing like starting out in the deep end of the pool. That doesn't look like a typical beginner design: plunges at either end of the cutting edge, an up-curved spine, three-tined tip and bolstered handle. Good going! Your Dad looks like a fighter. Good for him! Good on you!

All the best, Phil
 
just goes to show u dont need top notch equipment to make something nice, good on you woodwrkr, nice job
 
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the kind words.

Phil, you're right, Pop sure is a fighter. He keeps on keeping on with his exercises and is getting some movement back in his left hand. It's great to see the way he never gives up.

Thanks again.
Randy
 
I realy like it!
If you make a folder don't forget te make it a one hand opener. Spring assisted would be cool :D
I also like the story and the fact that is is for your dad.
I read an article in a German knife magazine a while ago about a one handed fork where the middle tine was a scissor to cut the food.
Just an idea :)
 
Great job Randy!! Have no worries about design infringment, and if you get a chance take a look at Matt Diskins work, theres is an example of a folding knife/fork design in the 2009 annual of knives p128, i wouldnt be suprised if you reached out to Matt you couldnt get some tips for building a folder for your father, again great job!! GHaile
 
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