- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 393
It's a knork, or at least that's what I think it's called.
http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/?action=view¤t=ROB_3566_01_2.jpg
My dad had a stroke a couple of years ago and he only has one good hand now, so he asked me to make a knife for him similar to the one his grandfather had many years ago. I've been wanting to get started making knives for a long time but this was the push I needed to get started, that and lots of great info from the forum members here.
I abandoned the first two blades I started (other designs, one a small utility and the other a paring knife) and I broke the first two blades of this design during HT, typical beginner mistakes, edge too thin, got the blade too hot in the furnace, warping during quench, etc. then I broke them trying to straighten the blades during tempering.
Anyway, I managed to finish this one. It's made of Aldo's 1084, 1/8" thick with nickle silver bolsters and pins and black paper Micarta scales. The bevels are hollow ground using a home made wheel on my wood lathe (I'm flat broke, can't even afford a new KMG, GIB or even a NWG). I attempted to achieve a high polish on the blade, which is probably a waste of time since it's 1084 and is going to develop a patina but I was thinking it's an eating utensil and so a high polish might be more sanitary, at least until the patina begins to appear. And the high polish has lots of flaws, next time I think I'm going to hand sand all the way up to a 2000 grit finish before buffing, like I did on the bolsters and scales, instead of stopping at 600 grit and then trying to polish on the buffer like I did on the blade. A clamp left a couple of marks in the blade at the plunge line near the bolsters, they're too deep to sand out. The pins began to appear in the bolsters while I was buffing the bolsters so I guess I need to peen the pins better next time. The plunge lines and grind lines have more curves than I wanted, way more, I've got a lot to learn about grinding and HT as well, but I guess that's all part of learning, right? During heat treat I had to run the ghetto fish cooker forge at 1530 degrees (digital thermometer and ceramic TS from Auberins) before the blade would achieve non magnetic then quenched in heated canola oil. The edge passed the file skate test but when I was sanding after HT I started getting the impression the spine of the blade didn't harden, only the edge hardened. I definitly need a better forge.
Here's a couple more pics, one of Pop holding his new knork.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3564_01-crop.jpg
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3567_01-crop.jpg
I've been seeing "Pics or it didn't happen", well here's proof it happened! I really am trying to participate in knife making.
Many thanks to everyone here on the forum, I couldn't have made this knork without all the great info I found here!
http://s1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/?action=view¤t=ROB_3566_01_2.jpg
My dad had a stroke a couple of years ago and he only has one good hand now, so he asked me to make a knife for him similar to the one his grandfather had many years ago. I've been wanting to get started making knives for a long time but this was the push I needed to get started, that and lots of great info from the forum members here.
I abandoned the first two blades I started (other designs, one a small utility and the other a paring knife) and I broke the first two blades of this design during HT, typical beginner mistakes, edge too thin, got the blade too hot in the furnace, warping during quench, etc. then I broke them trying to straighten the blades during tempering.
Anyway, I managed to finish this one. It's made of Aldo's 1084, 1/8" thick with nickle silver bolsters and pins and black paper Micarta scales. The bevels are hollow ground using a home made wheel on my wood lathe (I'm flat broke, can't even afford a new KMG, GIB or even a NWG). I attempted to achieve a high polish on the blade, which is probably a waste of time since it's 1084 and is going to develop a patina but I was thinking it's an eating utensil and so a high polish might be more sanitary, at least until the patina begins to appear. And the high polish has lots of flaws, next time I think I'm going to hand sand all the way up to a 2000 grit finish before buffing, like I did on the bolsters and scales, instead of stopping at 600 grit and then trying to polish on the buffer like I did on the blade. A clamp left a couple of marks in the blade at the plunge line near the bolsters, they're too deep to sand out. The pins began to appear in the bolsters while I was buffing the bolsters so I guess I need to peen the pins better next time. The plunge lines and grind lines have more curves than I wanted, way more, I've got a lot to learn about grinding and HT as well, but I guess that's all part of learning, right? During heat treat I had to run the ghetto fish cooker forge at 1530 degrees (digital thermometer and ceramic TS from Auberins) before the blade would achieve non magnetic then quenched in heated canola oil. The edge passed the file skate test but when I was sanding after HT I started getting the impression the spine of the blade didn't harden, only the edge hardened. I definitly need a better forge.
Here's a couple more pics, one of Pop holding his new knork.
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3564_01-crop.jpg
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x384/woodwrkr221/ROB_3567_01-crop.jpg
I've been seeing "Pics or it didn't happen", well here's proof it happened! I really am trying to participate in knife making.
Many thanks to everyone here on the forum, I couldn't have made this knork without all the great info I found here!