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Finally! Freehand sharpened my BK11 and it's sharp! Updated w/ tips!!!!

Joined
Dec 28, 2011
Messages
485
I am new to sharpening by hand and I have finally managed to get my bk11 to shaving sharp. It's not perfect, but I am using a 4 inch diamond stone from wallyworld and my hand as a strop. Here is a link to some great videos posted here on BF. The third one down is a video of Jerry Fisk sharpening knives at a gathering.

Warning! Extremely useful info:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...head-Gathering?highlight=Beckerhead+gathering

I have a king 250/1000 waterstone, on clich's recommendation, in my online shopping cart with some other goodies, including green compound, that I am planning on buying in the next month with some bonus money. Yay! I think my main problem was making too many passes with too much pressure and not enough very light passes.

I am also glad to know that my current stone will definitely work out in the field if needed. It comes with a handy case that doubles as the handle. Getting a good edge on your blade freehand definitely puts a smile on my face.

Update: adding some tips I have compiled to help some folks.

So bumping this to add a few tips that I made up tonight that helped me.

1. Get a larger stone. I got a norton 8" x 2" course/fine india oilstone for under 25 wampums shipped.
2. Use oil. I used wd40. (I know it's not technically oil but Fisk and Clich use it so......)
3. Place stone on towel or something thin and stable to give it traction to keep from sliding.
4. Use both hands.
5. Watch to make sure you are raising butt of knife as rounding the curve of the blade to compensate length/angle difference to keep consistent angle on secondary bevel.
6. Watch the oil push in front of your blade. Make sure it is pushing a pool in front of the edge so you know that the cutting edge is being sharpened and not just grinding down the secondary bevel line. Watching that pool of oil let's you know visually what part of blade it touching the stone at the edge.
7. Start with a few heavy pressure passes per side and keep it even. With each set get progressively lighter.
8. On the last few passes "strop" the blade on the stone. (run it "backwards" with the edge trailing.)
9. Get some buffing compound to strop your blade on leather or cardboard. This part is key to a great sharp edge.

Hope this helps some freehand noobs. I am a noob too, but following these guidelines that I have put together from videos and reading and over thinking the process, I now have 2 sharp knives. :D
 
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I'm still learning how to free-hand as well. I'm not great with it just yet. It takes a lot of practice to get right.

I saw that same video with Jerry Fisk, and have been using my hand as a strop lately to finish off my knives. It is truly amazing how well that works. My left hand is pretty callused from work; my right hand just a little less, and the two combined put a mean final edge on the knife.
 
I thought he was simply feeling for the bur, or to see how sharp the edge was. I didn't think he was stropping the knife.....
 
I thought he was simply feeling for the bur, or to see how sharp the edge was. I didn't think he was stropping the knife.....

From the way I heard it, he uses his hand to strop as a final step or in a pinch. Makes sense. We are all covered in leather basically.
 
I thought he was simply feeling for the bur, or to see how sharp the edge was. I didn't think he was stropping the knife.....

He does actually strop his knives on his hand. He said one hand is medium and the other is fine grit :D. He also said that's how he touches up his blade in the field. It works, just don't let your blade get too dull before you do it.
 
Those videos have really helped me a lot in figuring out how to move beyond the basic Sharpmaker (which I still love for my small folders). I just need to find a belt sander that I can live with. Harbor Freight = no good.
 
Those videos have really helped me a lot in figuring out how to move beyond the basic Sharpmaker (which I still love for my small folders). I just need to find a belt sander that I can live with. Harbor Freight = no good.

Sears has a 2 x 42 that is a quantum leap ahead of the HF. Made for continuous use even. It does run a little fast, but there are a ton of mods you can do to it. The Delta 1 x 42 is good too if you can find one.
 
He does actually strop his knives on his hand. He said one hand is medium and the other is fine grit :D. He also said that's how he touches up his blade in the field. It works, just don't let your blade get too dull before you do it.

Ha, I did catch him saying that in the video, but I just thought he was making a joke. Learn something everyday....
 
So bumping this to add a few tips that I made up tonight that helped me.

1. Get a larger stone. I got a norton 8" x 2" course/fine india oilstone for under 25 wampums shipped.
2. Use oil. I used wd40. (I know it's not technically oil but Fisk and Clich use it so......)
3. Place stone on towel or something thin and stable to give it traction to keep from sliding.
4. Use both hands.
5. Watch to make sure you are raising butt of knife as rounding the curve of the blade to compensate length/angle difference to keep consistent angle on secondary bevel.
6. Watch the oil push in front of your blade. Make sure it is pushing a pool in front of the edge so you know that the cutting edge is being sharpened and not just grinding down the secondary bevel line. Watching that pool of oil let's you know visually what part of blade it touching the stone at the edge.
7. Start with a few heavy pressure passes per side and keep it even. With each set get progressively lighter.
8. On the last few passes "strop" the blade on the stone. (run it "backwards" with the edge trailing.)
9. Get some buffing compound to strop your blade on leather or cardboard. This part is key to a great sharp edge.

Hope this helps some freehand noobs. I am a noob too, but following these guidelines that I have put together from videos and reading and over thinking the process, I now have 2 sharp knives. :D
 
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