Finally got a entry-level HT Oven (what steel to choose now)

Steelhog

Steelhog

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Jul 2, 2009
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Hey all. I was finally able to get an entry level HT Oven and excited about working with steels beyond 1084/8670 in the forge. I had thought O1, 80crv2, W2, 52100 or 26c3 may be a good next step once the oven arrives. Any suggestions on a good steel to start with that would be somewhat forgiving and not overly complicated?

I listed 26c3 as I really would like to experiment with hamons. I listed O1 because of availability and precision ground stock. But totally open to suggestions and feedback on where to start. I make primarily outdoor style knives with the occasional kitchen knife.
 
If you want the very best top of line steel and not worry about cost - Magnacut for sure. If you want the best bang for buck steel AEB-L at 62/63 Rc. Might need LN to get 63 Rc, but dry ice should get 62 Rc just fine.

26C3 at 63, and even 64 Rc is fast becoming one of my favorite carbon steels for cutting edges (San Mai, etc).
 
O-1 and 80CrV are simple steels to work and HT. They should give good results with an oven to do the austenitization.

26C3 is easy to work and produces an awesome edge. It gets so sharp I caution people not to stare at the edge too long in fear of them cutting their eyes.
A HT oven is the best way to get controllable and reproducible hamons with steels like 26C3 and W-2.

52100 takes a little experimenting to get the HT down pat but isn't all that complex. Putting the structure into a hardenable form before HT is important with some suppliers.

Depending on the oven you bought (you didn't say what it is) some steels may be out of the practical top range of the oven. Most will hold 2000°, which will work for CPM-magnacut and dry-ice. It will produce an edge close to that of 26C3.
 
If you have a good furnace and controller, essentially no steel is that much easier or more forgiving than the other. It's more about doing your homework on temps and times.

As said, AEB-L is great. Takes and holds a fine edge. Very tough. Wear resistance is so so though, but it may not matter that much depending on the application.
CPM154/RWL-34 is a step up in wear resistance at the cost of some toughness, very nice to work with and performs well.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
O-1 and 80CrV are simple steels to work and HT. They should give good results with an oven to do the austenitization.

26C3 is easy to work and produces an awesome edge. It gets so sharp I caution people not to stare at the edge too long in fear of them cutting their eyes.
A HT oven is the best way to get controllable and reproducible hamons with steels like 26C3 and W-2.

52100 takes a little experimenting to get the HT down pat but isn't all that complex. Putting the structure into a hardenable form before HT is important with some suppliers.

Depending on the oven you bought (you didn't say what it is) some steels may be out of the practical top range of the oven. Most will hold 2000°, which will work for CPM-magnacut and dry-ice. It will produce an edge close to that of 26C3.
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I got the Paragon/knifedogs oven. Its rated up to 2200f. I ended up ordering some 26c3 to start since that will work with my parks 50. Once I get some quinch plates and learn my oven I will expand into other steels.
 
Quench Plates, not quinch plates.
When you are ready for high-alloy and stainless steels, get a roll of 309HT foil and a plastic or rubber mallet to pound the folds.

Always let the oven come up to temp and rest for a good 15 minutes before putting in the blades or foil packets. There is no need for a pre-soak on 99% of knife steels. I always program a longer time for the austenitization step than I need. If it sits there a little longer while I get ready no problem. But, if the program reaches the pre-set time and shuts off, the blade will cool below austenitization ... and that's a problem.

One thing I tell new smiths who are starting to learn to HT in an oven:
HT is like making love - You can do no harm by giving it a little extra time (and likely some good) ... but you can ruin it by trying to go too fast."
 
An hour is fine. 15 minutes is a minimum. The electricity used is minor compared to belts and steel. Depending on where you live, and hour of power to a good-sized oven is around $0.30.
 
N.W. Gean said:
Is letting it sit longer a waste of electricity? I've been letting my oven hit temp and then soak for an hour before I start heat treating knives. I feel like it recovers faster from opening the door.
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Oven I buy from my friend have some cast iron on bottom .It does pretty good job in recovery temperature .

DF3l8KR.jpg
 
I'm going to suggest you first revisit the steels you were HT'g in your forge. Try to nail down the heat treat with the steels you are familiar with. There should be an improvement. I understand the urge to expand your material type but if you are after consistency, start from where you left off. Doing a bit of everything makes you consistent at nothing.
 
Rick Marchand said:
I'm going to suggest you first revisit the steels you were HT'g in your forge. Try to nail down the heat treat with the steels you are familiar with. There should be an improvement. I understand the urge to expand your material type but if you are after consistency, start from where you left off. Doing a bit of everything makes you consistent at nothing.
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Yep. I will be working my way through the last of my 1084 and 8670 then moving on to the 26c3 once that is all gone.
 
Now that you have an oven, get a hardness tester. Some ovens can be off by quite a few degrees and that can make difference with certain steels. By cutting up some steel coupons and running them at various temps can give you an idea how far off or not your oven is, but you'll need to test the hardness. Just because a file will skate doesn't tell you that much about it's hardness.
 
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