Finally made my first knife! (Pics heavy)

[Doc Holiday]

A few months ago I posted a thread here stating that I wanted to start making knives and asked what I needed to do so, and you guys delivered:thumbup: Here's the original thread; http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=801933
So thanks to all of you who helped me getting started. I also have to thank my new friend P-Y (who goes by ''Defaultuser'' in these forums) who shared his experience with me and gave me the last kick in the butt I needed to get going. P-Y is a very talented knifemaker btw. He also lend me his copy of the $50Knife Shop" by Wayne Goddard, which was a really good way to start. It only took a few pages of reading to make me jump on the grinder and start making something. I wasn't even sure what exactly I was gonna do but I think it turn out pretty well IMO.

Here's a few pics of the process;

Steel is 1/8'' 8660 heat treated by Rob Ridley from Alberta (Knifemaker.ca)
Oal is 9'' with cutting length of 4.375''
Full convex grind
Handle is Bubinga over Yellowheart

Now, I have one question for you pros; the wood is not stabilized, is there something you would recommend to seal it?

You comments ar welcome (good of bad :thumbup

 

[Makermook]

That looks very cool. I like the two-tone wood handle, a lot!

I'm not a pro by any means, but I have made a number of wood-handled knives, so I have a little experience. First, stay away from polyurethane. It makes a pretty, shiny finish, but whenever I've used it, it eventually flakes away and looks like crap.

I'm very fond of tung oil. I used to use "tung oil finish", which does okay, but I recently found pure tung oil at Woodcraft, and it's turning out to be an even nicer finish IMO. It is easy to apply, looks like it penetrates fairly well, and gives the wood a nice satin finish.

Of course, no finish is going to do much good for long if the knife is kept sopping wet, and any wood handle will get wear spots and dull areas after enough use. But a good penetrating oil-based finish ought to be a definite consideration on your list of finishes.

 

[defaultuser]

Looks AWESOME Alex! Way to go buddy!!! Not knowing you, I wouldn't believe it's your first one I especially like your design, and your handle. Does it cut???



Don't sweat your handle too much...since it's not stabilized, it will move a little bit anyway, no matter which kind of finish you apply.

Can't wait to try this bad boy

 

[Doc Holiday]

Makermook, thanks for the tip and comments :thumbup:


P-Y, thanks man! I'll let you play with it next time we meet
And yeah, that thing is scary sharp

 

[Reg ELLERY]

Great looking knife. Well done.

 

[Dug2]

i have a bass guitar made from bubinga, they say not to use anything but
bees wax on it. big difference in knife/instrument, just thought i'd pass it along.
nice job btw.

 

[Seals]

I love the knife.The shape is useful and good looking.I may even swipe the design.Slightly modified of course.I like teak oil for finishing.You made a beauty for a first knife for sure!Congrats!

 

[lonepine]

Hey, Haven't you heard? Your first knife is supposed to be misshaped and butt ugly. Let's get with it and follow the rules! ;-)

Nice job. The two colors of wood is a nice touch. When I've done that I have a problem keeping the light colored wood clean when I'm finishing the handle. I've read that holly is the whitest wood around but it is very expensive.

How did you make the bevel? Is that a mustard finish on the blade?

Good job! You make me sick. ;-)

- Paul Meske
Alias LonePine

 

[Hesparus]

Great job! It looks like you have the basic skills down and just need to refine them.

- Chris

 

[Patrice Lemée]

Well done for a first knife indeed. The handle shaping is nicely rounded, not blockish like many new makers start with (including myself here). Tung oil works good but nothing will "stabilize" the wood as it's been said before. Many thin coats with fine sanding and a final light buff will produce a good enough finish for your knives until you feel the need to move to stabilized woods (if you ever do).
Now let's see the next one. :thumbup:

 

[Doc Holiday]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate your comments :thumbup:

I love the knife.The shape is useful and good looking.I may even swipe the design.Slightly modified of course.I like teak oil for finishing.You made a beauty for a first knife for sure!Congrats!

Thanks man! I can sell you the patent right now before I get too famous

How did you make the bevel? Is that a mustard finish on the blade?

I made the bevels with a file first right down to the center and then I ground it with my belt sander/grinder (Lee Valley 1''x42'') on the slack part of the belt. It's hard to see from the pictures, (yet I'm such a good photogragher) But it's actually completed convexed from spine to edge but after the heat treat I decided to leave the scale for a more rustic look.

Well done for a first knife indeed. The handle shaping is nicely rounded, not blockish like many new makers start with (including myself here). Tung oil works good but nothing will "stabilize" the wood as it's been said before. Many thin coats with fine sanding and a final light buff will produce a good enough finish for your knives until you feel the need to move to stabilized woods (if you ever do).
Now let's see the next one.

Patrice, thanks for the compliments it means alot coming from such a skilled knifemaker
I will probably try that ''Tung oil'' for this one. I did order alot of different stabilized wood for the next ones so that won't be an issue anymore

 

[T.A.DAVISON]

You will always learn a llittle or a lot? on every knife.
You could make thousands of knives - and still learn something new on everyone of them.....

Good first knife. - :thumbup:

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

That looks great! It came out very nice, really great job on the first one.

I like the avatat, Deadwood was probably my favorite TV show of all time.

 

[Shoki]

You sir, are an inspiration. If you can get results like that your first time, then I really need to get serious about making knives. Nice work.

 

[Tiiiiiiiim]

Cool! The only thing I'd really pick on is the jimping. One of those things that stand out if you don't get it right. Take your time to get it even and parallel. Not that I'm am expert I'm any respect. I'm a big knife noob too.

How did you arrive at the shape? Looks like a nice slicer.

 

[Doc Holiday]

Thanks everyone for your comments:thumbup:

Cool! The only thing I'd really pick on is the jimping. One of those things that stand out if you don't get it right. Take your time to get it even and parallel. Not that I'm am expert I'm any respect. I'm a big knife noob too.

Yeah I know, I should've applied myself more on the jimping. It was just done by eye.

How did you arrive at the shape? Looks like a nice slicer.

I had this shape in my head for a long time and decided to make a mock up on a 1/4'' mdf and I really loved it so I decided to bring the plan to life.
I've been hunting and collecting hunting knives for many years and never found the perfect knife yet, I'm hoping it will be this one . I'll know for sure next fall
The ''revese tanto'' was inspired from my Benchmade Rift which I once used to gut a deer and surprised me alot. I also think it makes the tip much stronger.

 

[unky_gumbi]

I am a little late to the handle finish party, but I have used Pure Tung Oil on most of my handles so far, even putting a coat or two on stabilized handles to seal up the pours and Micarta to bring out the textures.

The knife I am finishing up right now I went a different route and gave Tru Oil a try. It dries fast, seems to give a hard finish, and buffs out to a nice satin finish by hand. It doesn't seem to give the depth that Tung Oil does, but still a nice finish all the same.