finally put a convex edge but not as sharp

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Jan 17, 2007
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hey guys I just put a convex edge on my ontario rat 3(1095 steel) using different grits of sand paper and mouse pad. I can see the progress because the flat straight edge is turning into a rolling edge and I have been going at it for awhile. My only problem is that it does not seem as sharp as it was before. What am I doing wrong? I am getting that convex shape but not the convex sharpness. When I try cutting news paper it seems like its gripping the paper more than ever. Any tips will be appreciated. Should I go back to the 60 grit again and work my way to finer grits?
 
In my minimal experience, it’s more difficult to get a precise, sharp edge doing convex. I think it’s just that it’s harder to get the planes to meet as precisely, and to make the edge of equal cross section throughout its length. I have had most success putting a flat micro bevel on a convex edge, it seems to even everything out more. What grits of paper are you using?
 
Kevshin21,

Making sure that you completely remove the marks from the previous grit, and that the edge is indeed fully meeting from both sides of the knife, progress from your 220 grit to 320, 400, 600, 1000 or 1200, 1500, 2000,(you can get even finer from www.leevalley.com) then strop with CrO2. I bet that your knife will now slice through newsprint like a hot knife through butter. 220 grit is kind of coarse for the final finish.
 
Convex really starts to shine over 600. I use convex edges on my work beater (put on and maintained with a Norton medium or a medium bastard file) for strength, and my EDC (put on and maintained with 2000 grit paper) for razor-clean cuts.

It can do both, you just need the right grits.
 
I just did the same thing to mine, D-2 Rat-3,
I used 400, 600, 1500, and it's scary! but the tip is the hardest to get for me

maybe try finer grits? for me that seemed to work
convex003.jpg
 
for my rat 3 the finish is partly scratched off how did you sand it so nicely? and it doesnt even seen convexed at all
 
Making sure that you completely remove the marks from the previous grit, and that the edge is indeed fully meeting from both sides of the knife, progress from your 220 grit to 320, 400, 600, 1000 or 1200, 1500, 2000,(you can get even finer from www.leevalley.com) then strop with CrO2. I bet that your knife will now slice through newsprint like a hot knife through butter. 220 grit is kind of coarse for the final finish.

What he said. Try finer grits, it’s no different than regular flat bevel sharpening in that regard, you need to have equivalent to a finishing grit and a progression of grits to that point. Or like I said, you can put flat micro bevel on with regular stones after your done convexing it. You also might be rolling the edge over too much, ending up with too obtuse of an edge.
 
for my rat 3 the finish is partly scratched off how did you sand it so nicely? and it doesnt even seen convexed at all

Thats the beauty of doing a convex edge- there is no set point, eventually the edge will crawl up twards the spine, yes spending more time would yeild more material removal, but honestly I moved up in grit because it was sharp.

The more and more I use and sharpen the more it will reveal a thinner edge,

The reality that you have to accept is- your trying to put on a convex edge, NOT a convex grind.

Hang in there, the more you try the easier it will get, maybe try on a thinner blade, like a paring knife?

Hope this helps,
Mike
 
Nothing wrong with adding a microbevel to a convex edge using a Sharpmaker or fine stone, if that's easier for you. Many of us do this, and you see it on certain well-known factory convex edges, Fallkniven and Opinel for example.
 
One thing I learned is--once you get to a pretty good rough edge, as you move up in grit, use a lighter and lighter touch. WOW it makes a huge difference.
 
my knife is getting smaller and smaller but I have no progress!! would posting pics of it help? the burr is really small, you can't really see it but you feel it.
 
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