Finaly

M

mpj13

Joined
Oct 5, 2001
Messages
108
Well, I am happy, Igot my stuff from Texas knives. 1pcs 1084 and 1pcs 1095, I also got a few brass rods. I have to wait to really get into it until I move into my house, but I drew out the shape. A few quick questions please.

1- Steel does not say what kind it is. One is rougher looking with
blue and white marks on the end and the other is shinier with
orange and blue marks. Any one know wich is wich?

2- I started to drill out the holes for the brass rods, I am going to
use 3/16th rods, and I am going no were I drilled for several
minutes and just barely cut into it. I am using a cheaper metal
drill, it just says hight speed steel and split point. I am using
a uh..ahh..he he cordless drill. Am I using the inccorect kind of
bits? I previously drilled out a few holes in some stainless
steel and it was not too bad. Please help.

Thanks for all the info, I am sure in the next few weeks I will be pounding the forums alot. By the way I am going to mostly follow Jonesy's tutorial. Thanks again.
 
Careful, I ordered some 1084 from somewhere else, and it seems that these steels often come not fully annealed. I have used the same 1/8" titanium nitride bit for a while, and then after two holes in the 1084, it didn't want to cut anymore. I'm afraid to use my cobalt bits on it now, for fear that it'll dull them in three holes. The outer part of the steel bar is soft, but inside the middle, it's hard as hell! If I were you, I'd heat the metal up to non-magnetic with a torch, and then put it in a pile of sand or something to cool it down very slowly (and soften the metal). Otherwise you'll have a real fun time filing it. :rolleyes: I tried to make a guard out of this stuff without realizing that it was so hard in the center, and it pretty much destroyed the teeth on my round file.
 
carbide drill birs will drill throu hardened 1095 or ats-34. use a little cutting oil and do the drill and release, drill and release so that you don't get the drill to hot.
 
Texas knives site says that the steel should come annealed, is there an easy way to tell if it is or not? I am able to file the edges pretty easy, but it may be hard in the middle, I have not got this far yet. I found some titanium drill bits 6 for $15 would these bits work like a carbide bit or do I just need to by cabide bits? If I anneal it I'll need to draw out my knife again, but this would be a lot better than trying to grind a hard knife.
 
1084 tends to "work harden" Cobalt bits are the best investment. High speed steel bits are ok but be sure to use slow speed and keep it cool with cutting oil.
 
Cut out the blade profile before you anneal it,then you wont have to draw it again..I kow it is to hard,I have had similar trouble with the 1080 series of steels.I heat it in the forge and anneal it and that seems to help,but as Bruce B stated it will work harden.I have found that if the bit ever gets hot and just spins you might as well re-anneal the piece as you WON'T get another bit through that hole.HSS Dits will work I use them,Just drill slow and keep the bit cool,also a bit sharpener is a handy item to have around to keep the bit sharp as you go.
Bruce
 
I guess I will try and anneal it again. My next task will be to cut out the shape of the blade, I was going to use the drill and a hacksaw but I may just have to wait until I anneal it. I have bench grinder on the way, is it safe to put a cuuting disk on it and use that for cutting? If so how would you make any kind of curved cut in the blade? Maybe just cut straight chunks out as close as possible to the correct shape and then grind the extra steel down. I am a safty nut most of the time, my mom was a nurse so I guess it rubbed of on me, I'm not a nurse though ;) Here is another idea, I am trying to get a 5" circular saw for home projects, but could I get a metal cutting blade and do straight cuts and then grind down the extra?

Another question. How well do cobalt(?)(not sure if it is cobalt, cobal or cobolt) bits work. Do I need to use an electric drill instead of a cordless one? If so any specific power or will any do? I am assuming the main thig is the type of bit rather than the drill itself.

I am going to try and anneal it, ant tips on how to do this with a torch. I know to heat it just past non-magnatized and then place it in ash or somthing to slow down the cooling proccess. What is best to use for annealing? Thanks for all the help, it may take awhile but I will finish.
 
It might not be an option for you right now, but one of the most used tools in my shop (and not just for knifemaking) is my drill press. If you look around good deals can be found.:)
 
Harbor freight has a little tabletop drill press for about $50. I have one as well as several of my friends. No complaints for the price. It's the best investment you can make if your gonna make knives. Cobalt bits are the best. They hold up very well and you can sharpen them over and over. Ti bits are coated, and once the coating is gone, they're gone. Use cutting oil and take it easy. The drill press is easier on the bits too.
 
Harbor Freight has some really good stuff. I'll try the Cobalt drill bits to start with they seem to be priced less than the Carbide stuff. Any one have advice on the 5" cicular saw and using a cutting disk on my bench grinder? Please help.
 
i hope you have a resperator and good safty glasses or face shieid. these are the most important tools, that is if you want to be around a few more years:D you can put the cutting disk on the grinder but be very careful to just make straight cuts this can get real exicteing if you break the disc.:eek: also keep it cool with a water pail or it will work harden.
 
For ruffing out Blade blanks,I went and bought a 4 inch disc grinder.They are not to expensive infact you can find them cheap at fle markets and I think Harbor Freight has them at lower prices.The cut pff wheel that fit on a skill saw fit my 4 inch grinder (without the guard on ) perfectly.I just put the steel in the vice and make cuts where needed and then put the disk back on and grind it to almost perfect shape,I then clean the rest up on the belt..This works great even on the 1084 stuff That I have...
Bruce
 
Since you need a resperator, is this because the steel puts off harmful dust or because the grinding wheel puts it off? Would a paper filter mask work, like the kind you would use to paint? If I need a heavier mask were is the best place to get one? Thanks.
 
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