Finding the center of a scandi ground bevel

verisharp

verisharp

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I'm sure there is a thread somewhere asking this same question, but I couldnt find one... Anyways, I'm making my first scandi ground knife and im not sure how to center the bevel/edge. I've seen people use calipers or different jigs to help them do it, I just wondering what the easiest/ most effective way to get my edge centered? Thanks.

PS: This is pre heat treat and quench so I'm just using a file to get a good rough edge
 
Just get a sharp drill bit just a little smaller in diameter than the blade stock thickness (or just a little larger in diameter than the blade stock thickness - either way works fine) -- now lay them both flat on a flat surface and scribe around the blade "edge" with the point of the drill, now flip the blade over and do it again -- you'll have two parallel lines close together, framing the exact center of the blade "edge" - these define the pre heat treat edge you're shooting for.
 
Last edited:
zerogee said:
Just get a sharp drill bit just a little smaller in diameter than the blade stock thickness (or just a little larger in diameter than the blade stock thickness - either way works fine) -- now lay them both flat on a flat surface and scribe around the blade "edge" with the point of the drill, now flip the blade over and do it again -- you'll have two parallel lines close together, framing the exact center of the blade "edge" - these define the pre heat treat edge you're shooting for.
Click to expand...

...assuming that the blade blank was truly flat to start with.

I've noticed that the 1095 from Jantz must be cut on a large brake (I think that's the correct word) that slices off 1" 1.5" or 2" wide strips. The edges where the steel was cut is deformed and it is necessary to get rid of that to be able to scribe the real center of the steel.

- Paul Meske
 
As Paul mentioned, the first step is to get your stock reasonably close to flat and parallel on both sides. Then square up the edges and mark them with layout dye or a Sharpie ( I like red, it shows scribe-marks really well).

Easiest/cheapest? Use a drill bit like zerogee described. Yeah it works... more or less. It will be pretty much kinda/sorta accurate if the bit is perfectly sharpened and you have a truly flat surface to work from and the phase of the moon is just so.

Best? Start with precision-ground stock and spend $30-50 on a nice adjustable edge-guide with a fully-adjustable carbide scribe.
 
james terrio said:
As Paul mentioned, the first step is to get your stock reasonably close to flat and parallel on both sides. Then square up the edges and mark them with layout dye or a Sharpie ( I like red, it shows scribe-marks really well).

Easiest/cheapest? Use a drill bit like zerogee described. Yeah it works... more or less. It will be pretty much kinda/sorta accurate if the bit is perfectly sharpened and you have a truly flat surface to work from and the phase of the moon is just so.

Best? Start with precision-ground stock and spend $30-50 on a nice adjustable edge-guide with a fully-adjustable carbide scribe.
Click to expand...

Where can I find a really good adjustable edge guide carbide scribe at? One that does NOT require a milling machine. I cannot find any online.
 
zerogee said:
Just get a sharp drill bit just a little smaller in diameter than the blade stock thickness (or just a little larger in diameter than the blade stock thickness - either way works fine) -- now lay them both flat on a flat surface and scribe around the blade "edge" with the point of the drill, now flip the blade over and do it again -- you'll have two parallel lines close together, framing the exact center of the blade "edge" - these define the pre heat treat edge you're shooting for.
Click to expand...

this will be the best $1 or $2 you've spent on a drill bit, and has just saved you $40-50 on a scribe...

folks this doesn't have to be calibrated just so, this is by far rocket science and it entirely depends on your eye whether or not you use a calibrated tool or an alternative..

unless of course you're a machine and have guides, jigs, lasers and the likes... but most of us freehand:)
 
Is any one better than the other?
I will be making both large & small knives so fully adjustable for different variants is a must.

If the accuracy of a guide vs. a drill bit is going to be the same no matter what I'm just going to get a bit!
But how much smaller than the steel your working with should the bit be?
 
Honestly I use the drill bit method but some people prefer the more precise way with a scribe...

If you don't mind be a little more careful and just using a bit it will save you a bunch of money. If you have 1/8th stock for example try and use a bit that is say 7/64 or slightly smaller. That way when you scribe and flip and scribe again you are left with 2 parallel and centered lines to grind down to. That way you can ensure you leave a thick enough edge so nothing warps in heat-treating.
 
I use a digital vernier caliper . measure the thickness at multiple points and the take that number and subtract .060 = the number you dial into the caliper and then scribe the edge flip and. repeat
 
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