fine dmt stone

M

MSTR

Joined
Nov 23, 2015
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6
how sharp does my knife already have to be to sharpen it on the fine dmt stone?
 
the fine is 600 grit and if the bevel isn't chipped or in very bad shape it should sharpen up fine. only time I go coarser is if I have to reset a bevel, no sense in wasting metal.
 
I use a DMT extra fine (green) and 2x fine (tan) dia-fold for most chores.

If a knife has chips or rolls, I'l run it on something a little more aggressive before going to the DMTs, I use an EZE-Lap fine diamond rod to rough the edge out if it is a little worse.

best

mqqn
 
The fine stone will work if you have factory bevels or minor dulling. On the extreme side of it's usefulness it could be used to remove small chipping but you could induce excessive plate wear doing such.

The Coarse DMT is a better one stone option IMO, coarse enough to set bevels and fix damaged edges but fine enough to create sharp and very useful edges. It's a coarser edge but this allows more versatility in cutting tasks and easier maintenance with a strop. Once stropped the edge can quickly become very fine and extremely sharp. The Coarse DMT and 1 micron diamond compound on a balsa strop is a common method I use for my high carbide steels.
 
Jason B. said:
The fine stone will work if you have factory bevels or minor dulling. On the extreme side of it's usefulness it could be used to remove small chipping but you could induce excessive plate wear doing such.

The Coarse DMT is a better one stone option IMO, coarse enough to set bevels and fix damaged edges but fine enough to create sharp and very useful edges. It's a coarser edge but this allows more versatility in cutting tasks and easier maintenance with a strop. Once stropped the edge can quickly become very fine and extremely sharp. The Coarse DMT and 1 micron diamond compound on a balsa strop is a common method I use for my high carbide steels.
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On average how many passes do you make on the strip after coming off the course DMT? When I first got my strop in I was getting the hang of it & think I did to many passes as it kinda took the bite the edge had to it away.
 
Really depends on the steel and how refined I made the edge before stropping. With some steels you can leave a fairly large burr and easily strop it off while other steels need to be almost perfect before stropping. It's easy to start pushing a little hard and that will round the apex of the edge when stropping. With proper stropping technique it will only become sharper.
 
I use a DMT fine stone (the interrupted surface) as a one stone set up accompanied with a strop. I find the fine DMT to be aggressive enough to bring an edge back to life and I like the toothy finish it leaves. After refining the edge as much as possible on the DMT fine I move to my strop and do a 3-3-3-3-2-2-1-1 stropping routine and that leaves me with a very aggressive very 'sticky' sharp edge. I'll strop as needed until I need to go back to the stone. The toothiness decreases as I progress through the life of the edge and strop to maintain.
 
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