Fine jimping cleaning?

Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
223
Hello,
I've recently had a few blades with fine jimping heat treated and wonder what would be a good tool to clean the very narrow (0.03125 approx.) grooves of the bedded scale?


Thanks ahead of time.

Scott
 
I can’t remember how many LPI the checkering file was that we used, but when I was at John Doyle’s shop, we used a piece of sand paper over a razor blade to get down into the grooves after heat treat. A little tedious, but it worked.

Jeremy
 
try a wire wheel, but be careful!
 
I can’t remember how many LPI the checkering file was that we used, but when I was at John Doyle’s shop, we used a piece of sand paper over a razor blade to get down into the grooves after heat treat. A little tedious, but it worked.

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy.
The folded sand paper by itself is pretty much too thick and trying to pull it through, well, it's more like hair pulling. I wish someone made thin, abrasive wire.
I may have to get some of those dremel cut off wheels and see if they are thin enough...

Scott
 
Gotcha. I used one from Harbor freight, almost a Carding wheel, but not quite as fine. You could also use a dremel wire wheel.

The serrations were 50 LPI.
 
[QUOTE You could also use a dremel wire wheel.
The serrations were 50 LPI.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, that I haven't tried. Mine are 20 TPI.
 
Use whatever tool you used to make the lines in the first place.
Hello John.

I used a file made for that purpose. I actually ran it a few times through the grooves, lightly, but it seems that the heat treating process changed the dimensions of the grooves just enough to keep the file from scraping out the scale. And I'm leery of ruining the file by attempting to chase them.

Scott
 
Or leave the jimping darker as an accent.

You may use a sharp needle file to clean up
 
Or leave the jimping darker as an accent.

You may use a sharp needle file to clean up
Good day Hengelo.

I do like the contrast, but right now it looks like gunk stuck in the grooves.
None of my mini needle files fit the slots.
Thank you.
 
I'm a bit confused.
I have both 20 and 50 TPI files. I am using a Jewelers saw to clean and make a slight undercut for each fine groove of the 50 TPI. It's tedious but necessary to get some inlayed wire to stick.
For 20 TPI I can easily clean it with folded sandpaper. Maybe you need a finer grit to fold flatter.
 
I'm a bit confused.
I have both 20 and 50 TPI files. I am using a Jewelers saw to clean and make a slight undercut for each fine groove of the 50 TPI. It's tedious but necessary to get some inlayed wire to stick.
For 20 TPI I can easily clean it with folded sandpaper. Maybe you need a finer grit to fold flatter.
Thanks. I will try a jewelers saw blade.
I can not get a folded piece of Rhynowet 240 grit in the grooves.
0zsT7xj.jpg

Jimpclean_zps797lhobg.jpg
 
Last edited:
It looks like part of the issue is that the file jumped around a little.
I'm not expert at this, but it helps me to start the file just on the corner and then lower it slowly across the edge once I get going. (to be clear I don't mean twist the file. I start all grooves at the same time)
I try to hold it very straight and keep going until I have smoothly bottomed it out over all the teeth.
I did a little lapel dagger that the jimping came out OK on.
Wfd3CZE.jpg
 
Last edited:
You are absolutely correct. Not my best effort on this particular blade. For one thing, the jimping is not full depth or even. It is not terrible, but the photo makes it look way horrible.
Also, the photo makes the groves look larger than they are. I can just barely insert my finger nail in to them. The decarb/scale is too hard to just scrape out, even using a rough edged knife blade.
Steel is O1, hardened in an atmosphere controlled oven, cryo treated and then tempered to 59-60.
I'm thinking the jeweler's abrasive saw might be the ticket.
Thanks for the input Richard and that's a cute lapel dagger. Do you carry it?

Scott
 
You are absolutely correct. Not my best effort on this particular blade. For one thing, the jimping is not full depth or even. It is not terrible, but the photo makes it look way horrible.
Also, the photo makes the groves look larger than they are. I can just barely insert my finger nail in to them. The decarb/scale is too hard to just scrape out, even using a rough edged knife blade.
Steel is O1, hardened in an atmosphere controlled oven, cryo treated and then tempered to 59-60.
I'm thinking the jeweler's abrasive saw might be the ticket.
Thanks for the input Richard and that's a cute lapel dagger. Do you carry it?

Scott
Thanks, I have a little slip sheath for it, but don't carry it too often. (it was the right size to use up a scrap of 3V...)
 
If you just want the scale removed I would etch in ferric or vinegar until it loosens and scrub it out with a wire brush. If you want the grooves shiny then a diamond needle file is probably what I would use, after doing the etch and scrub.
 
If you just want the scale removed I would etch in ferric or vinegar until it loosens and scrub it out with a wire brush. If you want the grooves shiny then a diamond needle file is probably what I would use, after doing the etch and scrub.

Thanks Justin. Was thinking there was or is a hand tool that'll work in my case.
 
Back
Top