How To Finish & Give Micarta/G-10/TeroTuf the "Wet" Look

Q

Quapukulu

Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Messages
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Does anyone have experience with finishing synthetic materials, and finishing it with the "wet" look? When working with G-10/Micarta/Terotuf?

I've searched multiple forum threads and other sources, and tried their following methods of either sealing or oiling:

WD-40: Evaporated in under a day and smells terrible.
Linseed Oil: Works wonders for stabilized maple. Nothing for synthetics. Forum also suggested Tru-Oil, but my understanding was that linseed oil was the main ingredient.
Scotchgard: Inconclusive. Seems to make it vibrant for now, but leaves a sticky residue. Makes for a gunky handle.
Dev-Con Epoxy: Same as Scotchgard, but makes the knife handle gritty and powdery.
High Grit Sanding/Buffing: A little effective, but not the "wet" look. Shaped at 40, then finished at 150, 320, 600. 1000, 2000, 5000.
Mineral Oil: Evaporated.

I'm definitely at a loss. Thank you for your time and expertise!
 
The quality of micarta really matters too. This I got from Trugrit and it's great to work with. I have bought some of the artisan "micarta" too and it's been horrible to work with. Whole threads coming out when sawing and it won't polish at all. Never again.

12-1500 grit then two different buffing compounds. Black linen micarta. Don't ask about the glove.

QNs9EO9.jpg

oYKp9le.jpg
 
can we see a pic of your handle sanded to 5K and buffed? usually micarta sanded to 2K gives a nice shine like scaniamans handle, although its not a wet mirror looking gloss. i have found that most things made with a burlap type rough fabric do not seem to shine well. gcarta does not shine well on its own either, in my experience. paper micarta seems to take better shine than canvas, or linen.
 
Morning everyone and thanks for the responses. So is the concensus that working with G10/Micarta/Terotuf is that it's supposed to be left "rough"?

My materials are mostly from UsaKnifeMaker, which is forum suggested, so I think I haven't figured out the right process yet. I'll try to get some pictures soon.

Is the story the same with Terotuf and G-10? My red and orange liners especially, end up very dull.
 
Scaniaman said:
The quality of micarta really matters too. This I got from Trugrit and it's great to work with. I have bought some of the artisan "micarta" too and it's been horrible to work with. Whole threads coming out when sawing and it won't polish at all. Never again.

12-1500 grit then two different buffing compounds. Black linen micarta. Don't ask about the glove.

QNs9EO9.jpg

oYKp9le.jpg
Click to expand...

That is very beautiful work. The contouring looks amazing.
 
Quapukulu said:
That is very beautiful work. The contouring looks amazing.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I appreciate it.

G10 will polish much better than canvas or linen micarta since it's glass not cloth.
Put some Windex on a piece of glass and then som on your pants and see which one takes the best shine :)

Make sure to get all the scratches out from the previous grit as you progress up to 15-2000. Choose buffing compounds made for the purpose. I use the german Menzerna line, GW16 then P175. After 12-1500 grit.

On another note, I would really like to see a manufacturer (Norplex) make micarta where they not only color the resin but the cloth as well. That should really help micarta getting a deeper more vibrant look.
 
Quapukulu said:
Morning everyone and thanks for the responses. So is the concensus that working with G10/Micarta/Terotuf is that it's supposed to be left "rough"?

My materials are mostly from UsaKnifeMaker, which is forum suggested, so I think I haven't figured out the right process yet. I'll try to get some pictures soon.

Is the story the same with Terotuf and G-10? My red and orange liners especially, end up very dull.
Click to expand...
That's like asking what a good car is.
Some people like a Ferrari, but if you have to move all the machines and tools from your workshop you'd be happier with a truck.
 
Several coats of Tru Oil will give it a glossy wet look, as well polished CA finish.
 
I have good results with microcrystalline wax, such as Renaissance. There's a cheaper version on Amazon, works good.
 
Neutral paste shoe polish works better, and Johnson's Paste Wax is good, too.
Both are cheaper than Renaissance Wax and the finish lasts longer.
 
Thanks for the answers so far. I had some Everbrite lying around for copper and tried it. Looks good for the G10 liners so far. I'll keep working on your suggestions.
 
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