Finish on the Green Beret Knife?

[Steven Roos]

What exactly is KG Gun-Kote? I was told the finish was teflon based similar to BT2. Is that true?

I'm just wondering how it would wear. Even if it did, could it be refinished?

 

[geegee]

I don't know the answer to your question, but I went to the opening of a new store here locally, and they had one in the display case. I got the salesman to take it out for some admiration by yours truly. What a knife! Beautiful and well balanced, and no question raised my Testosterone levels. geegee

 

[MJB]

Here is a site that has some very interesting reviews of some very well-known knives, plus hatchets, etc.

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/reviews.html

There you will find a review of the Project I, including some discussion about its finish and the durability of the finish. It seems to hold up very well which I am sure would apply to the Green Beret as well. You'll that the PI compares very favorably with other large, fixed blades.

This link has been put on the forum a hundred times before, but if you haven't seen it, it's definitely worth some time. If you look around a little, you'll see that some knives that have an overblown reputation for toughness and very big price tags don't hold up too well. But anyone who can read can draw their own conclusions. Plus, anybody who really loves their knives might be a little queasy when they see the extreme treatment to which the knives are subjected.

Regards,

Mike

 

[Steven Roos]

It took around 2000 or so chops before I finally started seeing a slight grey line just at the top of the hollow grind where the coating had worn down. The wear increased after that and at about 3000 chops the hollow grind itself had regions of grey where the coating had worn down. The picture above was taken at about this point. Unlike powder coats however the Kalgard does not flake off but tends to just wear down.

There are also some areas along the spine that have had the coating removed by heavy pounding. I was using the Project to split 4-5" diameter Birch logs by pounding on it with a club made out of a 6" piece of Blade spruce. Concerning wood splitting, at times it would be nice if the top guard was not there so as to allow strikes near the handle to drive the blade through the wood. And of course a longer length like the Shadow I would make splitting larger pieces of wood easier.