Finished !!!!!!

peter nap

peter nap

Joined
Nov 27, 1999
Messages
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This is the finished interchangeable poll hatchet!
The handle is 19" and stained with Aquafortis, soaked in Kerosene for a week and linseed oil finish.

The handle has a 3/8" threaded insert in the base, the head has one 3/8" fitting for the polls and two 10-24 holes for accessories requiring a back strap.

The 01 head is quenched about 2" from the edge.
 
Peter I dig it but I need bigger pics! :D My eyes just aren't what they once were. And while you're at it, how about some shots of the various attachments? I'd like to see how your backstrap works. Just full of ideas today.
 
I guess bigger is better
keper1.jpg

keeper2.jpg
 
Very cool!!! Let's see some of those attachments. :D
 
Pete, I really like it! Your temper hamon line looks great, too. I have a question, your homemade handle finish dries pretty quick? It sure looks good. I can't figure out what you CAN'T do, Pete!
 
Now yer talkin! Man that is cool. I like the swell at the end of the handle too, and I'm with John that temper line adds a lot. This is one of those things that just seems so obvious it's a wonder no one had done it before. This is an idea you should try to protect somehow though I don't know whether that's really possible. Anyway, thanks for sharing and you're still not off the hook for "attachment" shots. :D
 
Thanks everyone, I'll put some more attachments up as soon as I finish them.

I have a question, your homemade handle finish dries pretty quick?

The AF does dry quickly.. First get the wood to the desired smoothness. On something like this I stop at 180 grit to keep some texture.

Raise the grain several times by wetting the wood and sanding when dry. I use a green scotchbrite pad. When the grain doesn't fuzz up anymore, paint the AF on fairly heavy and let it soak for a few minutes.

After the soak time, I use a rag to really rub it into the wood.

It needs to dry now. Best results are if you let it dry for a couple of hours or overnight but it can be heated as soon as it's dry to the touch.

I use a heat gun and heat it until it is the color you want. You can vary the shades by using less heat in certain spots, The color will be a chalky reddish brown now.

Make up a solution of 1Tbl baking soda to 1 cup of warm water and neutralize the acid in the wood. Just wipe it on well and wipe it off.

You are ready to put on the finish of your choice now.

When you put the finish on, the chalkiness will go away and it will be a nice Red/Brown color with very dark and distinct grain!
 
Great Peter,

Is that a quench line I see? How long after pulling from kerosene do you wait before applying the finishing oil? And, what is the primary purpose for soaking in kerosine (sealing)? Does it bleed through the finish as time passes?

RL
 
Thanks Rodger. Yes, it's just normal edge quench.

I wait until the wood seems dry before using any type of finish. It just takes a day or two. The Kero soak makes the wood more limber and less likely to break. I've been doing it to ramrods for years and recently heard about someone who had set up a pressure tank to use on ramrods.

The stain is bulletproof and the finishes I use (linseed oil or Danish oil or recently Watco Teak Oil over a Linseed Oil base) aren't hurt at all by the Kerosene!
 
OKay, I think I understand. So, a kerosene soak would no necessrily be so good for short wood such as knife scales(?). Have you tried Tung as a finishing oil on those long fellows?

RL
 
Looks great, realy cool with the interchangable poles.

On the Kerosene soak, think it would help curly maple stand up to normal use a little better? I like the looks of maple for hawk hafts, but straight grained hickory is nearly industructable and maple won't stand what I term heavy use.

Thanks for shairing,
 
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