Finishes and rust prevention?

MrTangent

MrTangent

Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
37
Hi there. Searched a little but couldn't find answers to these exactly:

1. Are all the finishes Busse uses the same thickness and durability (i.e., desert sage, tanker gray, black, etc.)?

2. What are the finishes made out of? I'm assuming they're baked on?

3. Would one use normal oil (WD-40, Rem oil, olive oil*, 3-in-1 oil, etc.) on these types of finishes?

4. It's reasonable to assume these finishes will increase the rust resistance over double-cut and satin, correct?

5. How would one remove light rust from a double-cut knife (without marring the double-cut finish)?


I have an double-cut finished ASH-1 that I received from a seller today that has needle-sized "pits" along the spine (in a small 1/4" area) and on one of the handle guards. I called Busse and they suggested using WD-40 and a shop towel to buff the rust off (apparently they use WD-40 on all their knives, she said, prior to shipping them). I did this, and while it removed the red surface rust there are small pits that remain. I'm thinking of sending it back as it wasn't advertised as being rusted.

*I've read that some people use olive oil as a rust inhibitor that is also food safe.

Thanks!
 
Since you might have the chance of using a knife to prepare food I always use mineral oil. I use olive oil on a couple as well. Some say it is somewhat acidic and will patina some higher carbon knives. Never seen this but who knows.

The finish thicknesses vary. The Black being the thickest, tanker grey next, sage and then jungle green being the smoothest. Wear resistance is in the opposite order of thickness in my experience. I have never had a muddy knife so I dont know where that falls into play.

Busse knives are in general very rust resistant. I live next to the ocean and have not had a problem. I was successful removing rust with pencil erasers on my Strider SNG's. These are basically double cut. This is also what I use for my stonewash Hinderer folding knives. I get light rust around the thumb studs and hit them with the eraser when I clean them. You might be able to use a fine scotch brite pad just be very gentle.

If you got a rusty knife that was not advertised as being rusty I would get a return unless some sort of agreement can be worked out.

Zach
 
You also need to consider that the rust may have appeared in transit. That can and does happen. If a knife is shipped through wet weather it could easily happen. Often the knife is shipped wrapped in paper, or in a leather sheath.


I got a satin knife with a couple faint rusty fingerprints. They were not there in the very big well done photo's of the knife. I got rid of them easily (satin) with a bit of light buffing with wd40 and paper towel. I did not think they were there before shipping. I think the knife got touched in two spots and wrapped then shipped and they developed. I have gotten very damp packages before!


The best thing about double cut is the durability of the finish.

If it was bought as a safe queen, I would worry about it.

If you are going to use it I would not even worry. You can send it to Busse and have them hit it with a quick reblast and it should be fine.
 
Ebay. I might send it to Busse to have it bead blasted. Anyone know if they have to take off the handles to do that (reason: some of the small dimples of rust are near the handles on the guard)? And what kind of cost would that entail?
 
MrTangent said:
Ebay. I might send it to Busse to have it bead blasted. Anyone know if they have to take off the handles to do that (reason: some of the small dimples of rust are near the handles on the guard)? And what kind of cost would that entail?
Click to expand...

I got your emailed and replied.

I love Busse and will back them 100%, and no I did not sell him the knife. Give the shop a call and they will tell you the options and prices. Amy is a great girl and be very helpful. If you are going to send it back, I would suggest a satin finish as it is less prone to rust even if it may cost more. But that's just my two cents.
Congrats on the score and welcome to the addiction!
Dan
 
If the entire knife is going to be bead blasted again they would take the handles off. I have no idea on the costs. If this is to be a collector you could probably sell or trade this and get a brand new minty in the cardboard knife. Send me an email if you get a chance for a quick heads up!!!!
 
From the old Busse site:

"What kind of coating do Busse blades receive?
It is an epoxy coating with TFE in it. The current coating is a rough finish (commonly called wrinkle or crinkle finish) and is considerably more durable than a smooth finish. With use, the high spots smooth out slightly instead of just wearing off, this adds to the life of the finish. Generally speaking this finish started with the new Ergonomic (E) series of knives. There are, of course, exceptions to this."
 
The blood of fallen foes, on the other hand, is slightly corrosive.

MrTangent said:
1. Are all the finishes Busse uses the same thickness and durability (i.e., desert sage, tanker gray, black, etc.)?

2. What are the finishes made out of? I'm assuming they're baked on?

3. Would one use normal oil (WD-40, Rem oil, olive oil*, 3-in-1 oil, etc.) on these types of finishes?

4. It's reasonable to assume these finishes will increase the rust resistance over double-cut and satin, correct?

5. How would one remove light rust from a double-cut knife (without marring the double-cut finish)?
Click to expand...

1. I believe some are more durable than others. The new Sage coating holds up well for me.

2. Yes, Busse uses an Easy Bake oven. (see below)

3. You don't need any oil on a coated blade, except perhaps the bared edge.

4. Correct.

5. I'd try Flitz and a very light touch. You don't want to scrub too hard, or the spot won't match the rest of the knife.

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