Finishing a wood handle

D

David Poston

Joined
Jan 6, 2002
Messages
22
What's the best way to stain/finish a bare wood handle? Could I try MinWax Stain (e.g. mahogany) and polyurethane? I want a product that looks great, is protected from the elements, and grips great also. This would be for a machete grip, axe grip, etc.

Thanks,
David
 
Your idea to stain/poly your handle will work just fine. I usually use Danish oil on raw wooden handles, simple and effective. Available in various shades as well.
 
Sand it, stain it, sand it, stain it, then finish with three coats of polyurethane with sanding between the first 2 coats.
 
I've heard some people say polyurethane is too slippery for something you going to be handling and swinging around (i.e. machete, knife, axe). Have you had any trouble with slippage?

Rgds,
David.
 
I've heard some people say polyurethane is too slippery for something you going to be handling and swinging around (i.e. machete, knife, axe). Have you had any trouble with slippage?

Rgds,
David.
 
I like Birchwood Casey TruOil. Used it on knife handles and gun stocks and always like way it looks and feels.
 
I cast my vote for boiled linseed oil, per Walosi's post on the HI forum. I've been using it on working tools for many years.

The boiled stuff will polymerize, and it will be tackier than polyurethane.
 
My vote goes for Danish Oil. I would recommend NOT using polyurethane. You need a penetrating finish. Poly makes a hard clear skin over the wood, very good stuff for furniture and things but not tough enough for knives or ax handles. Chips, dents and dings will all show very easily,and possibly leave the wood exposed. Finishes like danish oil soak into the grain and harden, the wood can still be dented and scratched but it doesn't show up as much and can usually be rubbed out with another coat of finish.
 
Ditto Matt and others, just go with the oil, it's the best way to go!

James
 
I'm a great fan of oil finishes. A cheap Mora will show why. If you use it in the kitchet to peel potatoes the painted handle will make it far too slippery for safety. Burn off the paint and brush with a brass brush and then give it an oil finish and it will work fine wet or dry. Even nicely sanded finishes give good wet grip.
I've done well with boiled linseed oil - but I have to agree with Alberta Ed's past posts that tung oil is more durable.
Lots of us use Moras and Martiini filetting knives in the kitchen and the handles hold up very well with an oil finish. You just have to be sure to seal the tang hole for hygene.
 
Hi,
I am not an expert but here my suggest:
Take oil ( linseed oil or tung oil)and finish with wax (bleeched carnauberwax or renaissance wax). Wax will not seal surface from oxigen so the oil can dry.

Cu
 
I agree with the recommendation that some kind of oil is the way to go. However, I have some concerns about using "boiled" (actually, chemically enhanced) linseed oil compounds or tung oil compounds on knives that will be used to prepare food. In such cases, I use and recommend the food-grade walnut oil that one can find in health food stores or in large supermarkets. Walnut oil is nontoxic (though some people can be allergic to it), relatively inexpensive, and it polymerizes better than other food-grade oils like cottonseed oil, soybean oil, corn oil, olive oil, canola oil, or mineral oil. Thus, over time and after repeated applications, walnut oil will seal about as well and give the same kind of finish as linsed oil and its compounds.
 
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