Finishing handles on grinder...

Chiro75

Chiro75

Joined
Feb 4, 1999
Messages
5,786
I did a little rough finishing of some scales on my 2x72 yesterday, but it seems like a 2" wide belt is just asking for trouble. Is it customary to run a narrower belt, like a 1" or even ripped to less than that, to do contoured handles? If so, what's the general technique for cutting down belts? Or do I just need to develop a feel for using a 2" belt? Also, do you use the slack belt area, platen or contact wheel, or does it depend on the look you're going for?
 
I've tried and use just about any thing you can think of with the grinder and shaping. One thing I can't get the hang of is slack belting, except with trizact belts (they are nice and flexible). Everything else I use leaves cuts.

If you want to split a belt here's how:

Put the belt on the grinder nice and tight with the flat platen. Take a knife (you have one don't you?) and just above the platen pierce the belt with the tip of the blade, edge up. The spine of the knife rests on the platen to help hold it in place. Now move the belt with your other hand (pulling the belt towards you from the top works). Please don't do this by turning on the motor!

Bingo it's split. I don't know why they sell belt splitters.

Steve
 
good luck...I cant get my hands on slack shaping either. Rough it up with wheels and then slack belt by hand ;)
 
Steve, I do all my handle shaping with the sanding drum on a Dremel moto tool. I final sand by hand with the knife held in a vise. You get better leverage in the vise opposed to holding it your hand. It may take a little longer, but there is less chance of error.
Scott
 
I think it depends on several things.

The type of machine....the grizz runs fast. It takes a light touch and patience or you'll burn your material.

The look you are going for....My first knife was done on a grizzly. 90% of the handle was done on the grizz. A dremel was used once the mateial got close to the tang on the spine. Only finish hand work along the spine and for the finish. If I was doing a more contoured handle I would have used the dremel to rough it out then gone to hand sanding.

I used the platten to reduce thickness, then the area just above the platten for a slack belt effect.
 
I shape my handles on a 4X36 sander and usually get them at least 95% finished on it. I like the idler wheel/roller on it because its only 2" in diameter. I use that for tight curves. Everything else is done on the platen. The main thing is to keep the handle moving. Anywhere you pause you'll get a flat spot, this gets worse as the machine runs faster or belts get more coarse.
Keep it moving back and forth and rolling it along the curves you want. You'll get the hang of it eventually.
Start out with finer grit belts if you have to and use slight pressure. You have to stay ahead of the machine, so do what you can to slow it down until you get the hang of it.
 
Matt Shade said:
I shape my handles on a 4X36 sander and usually get them at least 95% finished on it. I like the idler wheel/roller on it because its only 2" in diameter. I use that for tight curves. Everything else is done on the platen. The main thing is to keep the handle moving. Anywhere you pause you'll get a flat spot, this gets worse as the machine runs faster or belts get more coarse.
Keep it moving back and forth and rolling it along the curves you want. You'll get the hang of it eventually.
Start out with finer grit belts if you have to and use slight pressure. You have to stay ahead of the machine, so do what you can to slow it down until you get the hang of it.
Click to expand...


Couldn't agree more....


This is one of the biggest reasons that I bought a Variable Speed Bader. Turn that puppy down to a CRAWL.......
 
I've used the micron belts for years all two inchs and my wilton is not variable in the groves
I use now,, the brown J flex, you can use a worn 220 or a 400
and run it into a rouphed out
( with a file or the belt if you can get at it)
finger grove up to all most a 90 deg flex in less than a 3/8" radus
you have to be fast and keep moving but it saves a ton of hand work and time .. just don't be too tight on the tention, I don't know about the other
units though :)
you can run over half way up this one from the butt end
then use cut strips with the good old finger tips to guide you
gray157.JPG
 
Chiro, I design most of my handles to be totally done on the slack belt, when I can't I come as close as I can.
Do this, stop and figure out what the belt will do and what it won't. Do this with the machine off. I don't have a small wheel so small radius sections don't happen. A sharp 220 grit norax belt is flexible enough to reach a lot of places other belts won't go and thy are not flat in the slack area so light pressure is the way to go. When doing Stag Crown sticks a 2" wide belt is to wide I then cut the belt down to where it will work using the method shown above. Then I guess it is practice practice you know the drill. The knife you just posted, your first off would be a snap to do all the way down to as fine a grit as you want just slow the grinder down.
Gib
 
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