finishing hardwood

T

TimmyTheTalkingToilet

Joined
Apr 16, 1999
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1,094
well I finally picked up a piece of cocobolo and another one that I cannot pronounce, so how does a beginer finish a hardwood handel for the first time.

which would the best be.

also I ran into my old knife maker friend, he told me about some guy who soaked the handel in anti-freeze and then turned the handel down and it had a great finish.
 
I don't know about the anti-freeze thing. Try it if you want.

When using a hardwood for handles, I sand up to 320-400 grit and then buff it or apply a generous amount of tung oil. Sometimes, I do both.

Cocobola dust is nasty so wear a good respirator and wash the dust off of you as soon as possible. If I have a knife that requires cocobola I sand that one at the end of the day then go jump in the shower.

I've had friends swell up badly because they were allergic to the dust.

Hope this helps.

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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.

William Least Heat Moon
 
Phillip's way works for me! Wipe down liberally with Tung Oil, let dry over night and buff. I prefer the pink "no-scratch" compound for buffing handle materials. It doesn't leave near as much black residue as the white chrome compound.

Hope this helps,

GaryB
 
So,,, no super glue for cocobolo??????

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
use watco teak oil, you can finish your handle in one night, just sand to 600 grt steal wool, and apply watco teak oil, 2-3 coats should be good. it is made to be water proof, and seals the cocobolo beyond what the wood can do for it's self.
 
240 grt, i'd go to 600 or 1000, then use tung oil, or my favorite, teak oil, use 2-3 coats. let dry sand with with 0000 grade steel wool. and you done, for a higher gloss you can buff, becuase these oils harden inside the wood, for a long lasting finish.
 
Lmao, George!!!!!!!!!! Me too!

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
I haven't tried it on stag, but I have used penetrating epoxy as a finish on several different kinds of wood (maple, lacewood, ebony). The epoxy is almost as thin as water. I use several coats, sanding lightly with 320 grit paper between coats. It gives a nice finish which seems to hold up well.

I don't have much experience with stag. Would there be any particular advantage in sealing it with epoxy?
 
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