Finishing Ironwood

I like it sanded to 400, then rubbed with linseed oil.

Actually, I like Marvel Mystery oil. It has a light red color to it and produces a very nice color under the linseed oil.
 
I like to wet sand to 1000 land then burnish with grey Scotch Brite. this brings out the 3 dimension look. Oil if you want but it is not needed. Ironwood has its own oil. for a non slip finish just sand to 220 or courser and leave there. does anyone have a solution to keep ironwood from darkening over time? Even the lighter golden wood in time gets so dark sometimes you can't even see the grain.. Phil
 
Hi Phil! Sure all woods will darken over time. In the antique biz, they call it a *patina* and it adds real value to a relic.

However, I only use natural handle materials and they all will darken (oxidize) if you don't stop the O2 from reaching them. You need a sealer and maybe even a bleach pre-treatment. Linseed oil has it's uses, but it doesn't seal very well. You have a couple of options. You can spray a sanding/sealer and then add a poly or car type clear coat, or you can wipe it down with super glue a few times using photo lens wipes. (no lint). Then polish as always. I've had good luck with thinning a poly spar varnish 1:1 with thinner and using that as a wiping finish. Whatever you do, though, use and sweat will make the wood darken over time. I've heard of some stabilizers that work great, but I'm too old, and too onry to try them:)
 
Woods don't "oxodize" from O2 reaching them, they break down from UV exposure. Not necessarily a bad thing! Osage Orange or Teak for instance, get really rich in color. However, when they start out rich, you may not want to go any further.
Send them off and have them stabilized - it's about your only choice.
 
Thanks for the tips. I have tried all mentioned. Ironwood is too dense to stabilize, super glue seems to work only for a while and car wax is gone the first time the handle gets wet. Anyhow ironwood is made by nature for knife handles. So a little darkening is also natural. I keep comming back to it since it is so stable. Phil
 
Anyone try penetrating epoxy (i.e. Rot Doctor dry rot treatment)?

Since I have some, maybe I'll have to do a test. I'd rather avoid it because the stuff has some serious chemicals in it that make you feel kind of ill, even with a mask.
 
The times I used Iron wood all I put on it was Tree Wax. Worked great and they still look great. Tree Was is Canaruuba (sp) wax and no silicone provides a non skid surface and can be reapplied any time by anyone.
 
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