Hey folks, just wondering about two things: I recently re-handled my CS Vietnam Tomahawk w/ a mahogany bed slat cut to about 20". It came out great, and now I am wondering about what kind of oil I should use to finish the wood in. A while back, I remember reading a thread where someone used vegetable oil to finish their wooden handle (slabs?). Is this alright to use? Also, I stripped the paint off of the tom's head. I would like to mirror polish it, so how do I go about doing that? I do have a Dremel tool, if that'll help in getting the job done. And finally, how would I got about making a bandolier to hold this thing (the stock sheath on goes on the left--I'm right handed, though) so it hand off of my right hip? Should I use cordura, or go w/ the woven, earthy look, which would compliment the tom's current appearance. You guys might grimace, but I do intend to use this thing. Thanks in advance.
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Finishing materials
- Thread starter Thrawn
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You might get a better response in the Shop Talk forum rather than the Custom Knives Forum. So I'll move it over there.
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" I am continually reminded of the rewards of dealing with custom knife makers and the custom knife community." Jeff J.
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" I am continually reminded of the rewards of dealing with custom knife makers and the custom knife community." Jeff J.
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As a woodcarver, I am familiar with finishing wood. Sand your handle to at least 240 grit before starting to finish. I would use boiled linseed oil (diluted 1 part oil to 1-2 parts mineral spirits to help penetration). Give the handle at least three coats. Keep it wet for about an hour to let the wood absorbs the oil. When dry, sand it well with some black 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper until smooth, and recoat with the linseed oil mixture again. Let it dry for 24 hours. Do this for three consecutive days. Finally, rub it down with 0000 steel wool (woodworking supply stores) and give it several more coats of a good furniture wax. You can apply most waxes rapidy. Coat, let it dry, buff, and recoat in about an hour. Several coats will add depth and lustre to the finish. This treatment will bring out the beauty of the wood grain and protect the wood. You will see a startling color change when applying the oil for the first time. I just love that moment. Reapply oil and wax yearly and the handle will last forever. If you want a tougher and more waterproof finish, use several coats of clear polyurethane based wood finish (satin, not high gloss) AFTER applying the linseed oil as described above.
As for the mirror finish, it's the same thing as with finishing wood, but much much harder. Start with rough grit sandpaper to remove any surface imperfections, and work you way up through finer and finer grits. Most hardware stores carry emory polish (rough), and jewelers rouge (fine) which will work well with the dremel on small felt buffing wheels. A true mirror finish is going to be very hard to achieve evenly with the dremel. I would suggest doing a nice satin finish with 600 to 1000 grit sandpaper. Work it by hand evenly, and in one direction. Good luck.
Paracelsus
[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 08-18-2000).]
As for the mirror finish, it's the same thing as with finishing wood, but much much harder. Start with rough grit sandpaper to remove any surface imperfections, and work you way up through finer and finer grits. Most hardware stores carry emory polish (rough), and jewelers rouge (fine) which will work well with the dremel on small felt buffing wheels. A true mirror finish is going to be very hard to achieve evenly with the dremel. I would suggest doing a nice satin finish with 600 to 1000 grit sandpaper. Work it by hand evenly, and in one direction. Good luck.
Paracelsus
[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 08-18-2000).]
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They should have the 600 for sure. That is probably fine enough. You will get better oil penetration using only 240 grit before applying the first coat. After that dries, sand to 600 and apply the next two coats. This treatment will saturate the wood. It is not just a surface finish. Make sure to wipe off any surface oil after letting it soak for an hour to dry.
The 0000 steel wool is actually a synthetic material that comes in small tear off sheets. It is about 1/4 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 4 inches long. You should find it in the same section as paint/sandpaper. Buffing materials for the metal will also be nearby. A tube of emory powder or jewelers rouge should be about $3 each. The purpose for the 'steel wool' is just to buff the dryed oil surface slightly. You don't need to rub too much. Make sure to get BOILED linseed. It dries faster. And be very careful about used rags. This stuff has a reputation for spontaneous combustion, particularly in high heat. Read the safety label. Have fun and let me know how it turns out.
The 0000 steel wool is actually a synthetic material that comes in small tear off sheets. It is about 1/4 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 4 inches long. You should find it in the same section as paint/sandpaper. Buffing materials for the metal will also be nearby. A tube of emory powder or jewelers rouge should be about $3 each. The purpose for the 'steel wool' is just to buff the dryed oil surface slightly. You don't need to rub too much. Make sure to get BOILED linseed. It dries faster. And be very careful about used rags. This stuff has a reputation for spontaneous combustion, particularly in high heat. Read the safety label. Have fun and let me know how it turns out.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 1999
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- 2,112
....or....
buy stabilized wood from any knifemaker supply house such as Texas Knifemaker's Supply, K&G, Jantz, Sheffield, Koval or www.knifesupplies.com
What may take you three or four days to finish is completed after buffing. It is well worth it in the long run.
As far as a mirror finish, if you are going to use it, I personally wouldn't bother. The first time you use it, the "mirror" would be gone. I personally would take it to 400 grit, 600 max for a user.
To do a mirror finish though, grind on your belt to about 400 or 600 grit. Go back over with 220 grit and hand finish to get ALL the grind lines out. Progress to 320, 400, 600, 1000 then maybe even 1500 and 2000 grit if you feel industrious. Ensure that each grit after removes ALL the scratches left from the previous grit. Sand one way then with the next grit sand at a 90 degree angle until all lines are gone from the previous grit. Buff with green chrome rouge and finish with scratchless pink. I use a wooden flat "stick" with leather glued to it as a "sanding pad". It doesn't take as long as you think. Just sand evenly across the entire surface. If done properly, this is a presentation grade mirror finish.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-18-2000).]
buy stabilized wood from any knifemaker supply house such as Texas Knifemaker's Supply, K&G, Jantz, Sheffield, Koval or www.knifesupplies.com
What may take you three or four days to finish is completed after buffing. It is well worth it in the long run.
As far as a mirror finish, if you are going to use it, I personally wouldn't bother. The first time you use it, the "mirror" would be gone. I personally would take it to 400 grit, 600 max for a user.
To do a mirror finish though, grind on your belt to about 400 or 600 grit. Go back over with 220 grit and hand finish to get ALL the grind lines out. Progress to 320, 400, 600, 1000 then maybe even 1500 and 2000 grit if you feel industrious. Ensure that each grit after removes ALL the scratches left from the previous grit. Sand one way then with the next grit sand at a 90 degree angle until all lines are gone from the previous grit. Buff with green chrome rouge and finish with scratchless pink. I use a wooden flat "stick" with leather glued to it as a "sanding pad". It doesn't take as long as you think. Just sand evenly across the entire surface. If done properly, this is a presentation grade mirror finish.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-18-2000).]
Well, I'm going w/ a satin finish after all. BTW, I'm doing this all by hand and have already attached the head to the handle, so Texas Knifemaker's Supply is out of the question. Besides, it wouldn't really be much fun to me, kinda like flyfishing, but using flies someone else tied. Thanks for the tips, though, I'll keep that in mind the next time around.
All in all, this process is going great. But I have one more question: How do I get the paint out that's left in the pits created by the drop forging process? I'm trying to make this look the best I can, and while the handle is turning out great, the head's pits still kinda bother me. Any help w/ this issue is also greatly appreciated.
All in all, this process is going great. But I have one more question: How do I get the paint out that's left in the pits created by the drop forging process? I'm trying to make this look the best I can, and while the handle is turning out great, the head's pits still kinda bother me. Any help w/ this issue is also greatly appreciated.
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If you have a belt grinder then grind them out smooth. If the head was cast, good luck, it could have inclusions or pits through and through.
Craig
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-19-2000).]
Craig
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-19-2000).]
Is casting the same as drop forging? I hope not. I think the pitting is only on the surface. Cold Steel says they drop forge it until it's a "homogenous mass." That would mean to me that the inside's pretty solid. If not, well, we'll see next time I go camping.