Finishing Padauk

[Kevin McGovern]

I just finished the handle on the knife below, except for a coat of hand rubbed wax, which made it just a bit shinier. It is un-stabilized Padauk currently at 600 grit finish then buffed with very fine compound. I am happy with the finish, but have a few questions.

1. I understand that the color will likely fade with time to more of a brown, I'm ok with that as I don't think there is much I can do to stop it. Is that a problem?

2. The wood has some fine checks in it, as I understand is inherent with this wood. I don't mind the look, I kind of like it actually. Is this something I should be concerned about?

3. Any directions I should give the buyer other than the usual (clean it, dry it off after use, don't put it in the dishwasher).

As always- Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[J. Hoffman]

I love Padauk. The one I made with Padauk, kept the color for as long as I had it (year or so). Not sure what it looks like now. When you first mentioned checking, I thought maybe you were talking about the course grain, which can be somewhat porous like oak. I see the checking you are talking about though, and that would kind of concern me, depending on how deep they go. I just checked the Padauk I have left, and I didn't see any checking in it. Light oil on the blade and handle is always good advice. It's a great looking knife!

 

[Kevin McGovern]

It is course grain like oak actually, that's a better way to describe it. It probably looks worse in the pictures, as this is before I cleaned it off after buffing and applied wax and hand buffed.

 

[Greenberg Woods]

Send me an email. I produce a wax specially designed to prevent color change.

Brb, I have to get my testing sample off the roof

 

[Geoff Flato]

It turns a deep rich red after a year or two, and holds that for quite a while. After 5-10+ years it will start turning brown though.
For finishing I've found two approaches to work. Either the way you did it if you don't mind the big pores, or building it up with CA until everything is filled and you have a layer of CA on the surface to polish.
The CA seems to hold off color change for a lot longer, but it isn't as durable in long term use.
Think of it as a working finish vs a display piece finish

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Checking in handles is most often caused by heating the surface in sanding and buffing. It is really a problem with ebony. Ivory also has a high tendency to check after buffing too hard.
The surface expands , but the wood under it doesn't. This tears the wood fibers apart. This can grow a check ( tiny crack) instantly or it may take a little while for it to decide to open up.

To reduce or eliminate checking:
Sand gently and don't let it get past barely warm. DO NOT LET IT GET HOT!
Don't sand continuously for long times. Sand a little, check the progress while letting it cool, sand some more.
Shape the handle at 100 and 220, then smooth it up at 400 grit on the belt sander. Hand sand the final grits.
Use the 3M colored polishing papers and hand sand and hand polish ( it goes to 8000 grit)
Buff with a clean buff and charge with fresh compound. A final light buff with carnauba wax is a good finish.

I have seen ebony handles that looked like black glass when freshly polished end up covered with spider web checks and crazes a week later. Unfortunately, the damage can't be fixed and often gets worse with time.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Checking in handles is most often caused by heating the surface in sanding and buffing. It is really a problem with ebony. Ivory also has a high tendency to check after buffing too hard.
The surface expands , but the wood under it doesn't. This tears the wood fibers apart. This can grow a check ( tiny crack) instantly or it may take a little while for it to decide to open up.

To reduce or eliminate checking:
Sand gently and don't let it get past barely warm. DO NOT LET IT GET HOT!
Don't sand continuously for long times. Sand a little, check the progress while letting it cool, sand some more.
Shape the handle at 100 and 220, then smooth it up at 400 grit on the belt sander. Hand sand the final grits.
Use the 3M colored polishing papers and hand sand and hand polish ( it goes to 8000 grit)
Buff with a clean buff and charge with fresh compound. A final light buff with carnauba wax is a good finish.

I have seen ebony handles that looked like black glass when freshly polished end up covered with spider web checks and crazes a week later. Unfortunately, the damage can't be fixed and often gets worse with time.

I believe it's course grain, common with this wood. I have not had this with other wood.