Recommendation? Finishing suggestions for African mahogany/ebony and spalted maple

[_huck_]

I'm new to knife making, and didn't do my research before selecting these exotic woods from the local lumber store.

My first knife was this hunting knife I made for my brother, which I finished with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal after sanding to 220. It came out alright, but the finish has already started to show wear marks from the Kydex sheath.

I'm making another one for one of his co-workers who liked the handle but wanted a stone-washed blade. I want to try a different finish that will bring out the beauty in the grain AND be nice and durable. I've seen high grit finish/buff as a recommendation for ebony, but I want the mahogany to stand out as well. CA glue was another one, but I'm not sure it that's going to work with both either.

Here is the second knife, unfinished.

Not as important, because there are threads I can search on finishing stabilized spalted maple, but I'm interested in hearing how you would finish the other knife in this pic.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

Chris

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Stabilized woods are simpler to finish, because all you need to do is sand to 400 grit and buff,

220 is too coarse for a handle finish. Above 800 grit is pretty much wasting time on most wood.

If using a finish:
The finish should be IN the wood, not ON it. Use a finish that is not too thick. Rub in a coat of finish with lots of finger pressure wearing rubber gloves. Let it dry, then sand it off with 400 grit paper. Repeat at least four times ( many do 10 times) and the handle surface will be filled with the finish. A final light hand buffing with a soft cotton cloth (old T-shirt) will give it all it needs.

A CA finish is done pretty much the same as an oil finish. Rub on, let dry, sand off, repeat. Use the thinnest CA available. Some folks let is sit for about 5-10 minutes, then remove the excess by rubbing it hard with acetone or nail polish remover before letting it fully dry overnight. This pushes the CA a bit deeper into the wood. Repeat 4 to 10 times to get a really nice shine. Hand buff.

 

[tim37a]

It is my understanding, and I may be completely wrong, that CA does not have any UV inhibitor in it. It will not hold up in sunlight, so it wouldn't be good for a knife which will be used for anything. It is best used for collectors knives. I may be wrong, so anyone who is sure about the UV issue, please chime in.
Tim

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I don't recall ever seeing any reference to UV issues with CA resins. Also, properly done, the CA is in the wood, not on the surface where it would be exposed to UV.

I do agree that a CA finish is most useful on a shelf queen.