finishing technique

S

SMS

Joined
Jan 23, 2000
Messages
13
I was wondering if any of you would share with me how, when you are doing your final finishing, do you polish your guards and or bolsters with out getting that dang black buffing crud on your wood handles.

This is before any sealer is put on the wood!

Thanks, Steve
 
Any particular reason for blue, or is it just what you happen to have?
 
I don't really know, but I might guess that he prefers the blue because painter's tape is blue. It doesn't leave residue and it's designed to be easy to remove cleanly when you're done.
 
Those guys know what they're talking about!

But I couldn't get the tape thing to work out for me. I ended up with a low spot right there where the tape ended.

For non-stabilized I soak in linseed oil.

I scan everything (wood and steel) together to 240 grit. Then I switch to 400 grit cheap brown painters sanding paper (Doesn't leave any junk in the pores). Then I use cut up 3m micro finishing belts - 30, 15, 9 mircon carefully. you can scan over the wood and steel at the same time, but the area on the paper that touches the steel can't touch the wood. And I change the paper very frequently.

If a little steel junk gets on the wood (or ivory!), then you hit that area with a fresh piece of belt and sand it out. Again changing paper.

If your 400 grit finish is perfect, it really doesn't take that long.

Steve

PS the tape idea is very good, wish it worked for me.
 
I only use the buffer when the knife is disassembled. After assembly, I need to rebuff an area, I use a Dremil buffing bit very carefully after masking the wood.
 
Oh Buffing? I thought he was asking about sanding, duh.

Good idea Peter.

I buff with bobbing compound (At least I think it is). You get a satin finish on 416 and polishes wood nicely. It kinda greasy which is actually nice. A little mineral spirits dissolves it completely away. Unlike the dusty stuff that gets in a stays in.

Steve
 
Makes me sick when I think about all the gorgeous desert iron wood and maple burl I muddied up by buffing it before I figured out the buffing compound was turning it so dark you couldn't see the wood anymore.
Another thing buffing will do to wood handles is wear real fine little grooves or stria in them. You have to hold the knife at just the right angle in the proper light to see them but they're there. I noticed them in one of my knives the other day. My buffer is too big and fast. It's 3/4 horse and turns 3600 rpm. I saw a chart the other day that shows how fast certain size wheels turn on buffers running certain rpm. I use 10" buffs and the chart said on my 3600 rpm buffer the 10" buff runs 11,000 rpm at the outer edge. That's ridiculous!
I'm in the process of making a buffer assembly that will fit on my Wilton so I'll have variable speed capabilities. I'll be able to go from a crawl to ridiculous speeds. :)
 
Thanks for the information L6!

Here I thought I needed a new unit!? I do handles at 1750 and a 6" wheel. I'm staying put.

Steve
 
hey folks, thanks for the replys. but i have to agree with sando, the tape thing doesnt work to well for me either. but you did give me some ideas.
Thanks again for the replys.

Steve
 
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