Finishing tigerwood

Matt Rochester

Matt Rochester

Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
1,864
So, I have some tigerwood (like used for decking) and I need some tips on finishing it. Anyone ever used any? Can I use tru-oil or something similar? I have sanded it to 600 and waxed it and it looks ok but I would like to polish it and it doesn't seem like that's going to work without a topcoat.
 
Well, the first thing to do is remove the wax. No finish will work well on a waxed surface.

Gonco Alves is a really nice wood, and it needs very little finish. For a smoother and finer surface, use a rubbed in oil like Tung, or Teak. Rub it in, let it sit for a while, rub it off, sand with fine paper, repeat until a good finish is built up. It won't be fast, but it will be good looking.

Please try and avoid the instant gratification of putting a poly or other varnish on the surface. It may shine, but it will look horrid in a while with use. A proper oil finish, worked in and built up, is "IN" the wood, not on it.
 
Tiger wood is moderately dense(the dark parts are much denser) and oily. 600g is pretty course for this wood. I would go up to at least 1500g, and if you want shinier, 2000 or 2500g will be much better. I like Watco Danish Oil, or 30% thinned tru-oil for the oily hardwoods. Just a few dabs per coat, wipe excess off, and buff after 24h. Repeat until it feels like soapstone. :thumbup: (10-15 days)
 
I have already sanded it back down and have some teak oil I will try. I was under the impression that tru oil was ''in'' and not "on". Thanks fellas.
 
In my experience with Goncalo and most exotic woods, the best way to add an oil is is a trick i learned. You wipe it with acetone to take out the latent oils, wait a few minutes, then wipe it again. The capillary pressure means after the first wipe the oil flows right back to the surface in a heartbeat, so that second wipe gives the oil enough time to get into the fibers.
 
So, wipe twice with acetone and then add my oil?
hellspawn415 said:
In my experience with Goncalo and most exotic woods, the best way to add an oil is is a trick i learned. You wipe it with acetone to take out the latent oils, wait a few minutes, then wipe it again. The capillary pressure means after the first wipe the oil flows right back to the surface in a heartbeat, so that second wipe gives the oil enough time to get into the fibers.
Click to expand...
 
Another trick is to oil after 400g sanding, then oil after each increase in grit, as the pores are more open after sanding, and at lower grits. I don't worry about it too much with the oilier woods, as they can weep for a few months if over oiled.
 
I sanded to 1500 and have put a couple coats of Watco teak oil on it and man does it bring out the grain. Can I machine buff or should I hand buff it? Thanks for the tips.
 
Rookie25 said:
I sanded to 1500 and have put a couple coats of Watco teak oil on it and man does it bring out the grain. Can I machine buff or should I hand buff it? Thanks for the tips.
Click to expand...

I hand buff. I found power buffing gives a better gloss, but the wood looks hazier. Its a subtle difference.

Each day put a light coat on, let it sit for 30min, then rub the excess off. You want the oil in the wood, not on the surface. The next day buff, then another light coat. This is my favorite finish for personal use. For knives I sell, people like glossy stabilized wood, but the hand rubbed finish is so classy. :thumbup:
 
Rookie25 said:
I have already sanded it back down and have some teak oil I will try. I was under the impression that tru oil was ''in'' and not "on". Thanks fellas.
Click to expand...

Tru oil soaks in too. It has more varnish, so its a bit thicker and a bit glossier. The hand rubbing oils are a blend of varnish, mineral spirits, pure tung oil, and wax. They differ in the proportion of each. I thin the tru oil so it soaks in better, and is less likely to build on the surface. I use tru oil to seal the pores in stabilized woods.
 
One more question. I have a good bit of this Gonco Alves(tigerwood). Can this be stabilized and would there be any advantage? Since I don't have anything in it as far as cost, I would only have the stabilizing cost. If stabilized, it would eliminate the need for any finish and should produce a high shine. Thanks.
 
I don't recall ever seeing it stabilized. It probably can be. I would ask either Mark, at Burl Source, or Mike at WSSI.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top