Finishing up first liner lock

Matt Rochester

Matt Rochester

Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
1,864
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    This is my first liner lock I’ve been working on off and on for about a year. Get frustrated and leave it alone for 2 months. Then repeat! Cpm154 154, titanium lock, stainless bolster and liners, G10 scales. I’m sure I did most of it the hard way but it’s smooth, solid and locks up good. The lock is a little catchy when unlocking it but other than that it all works very nicely. I need to try another thumb stud as I really had to shorten up the screw and the shoulder to get it to tighten. I also can’t get the screw to go flush. I need a different countersink I guess. Anyway, constructive criticism, comments or suggestions are welcome. It’s going to a buddy that’s color blind and blue is the only thing that really stands out to him! I still have some finishing to do but hope to get it done in the next day or two.
 
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I can't see the picture, but I'll tell you that if the lock bar is titanium, you should carbidize the contact face. This will really reduce lock sticking, and will extend the life of the lock.
 
Matt R said:
Is it necessary?
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Not Necessary until it locks up so tight you need a screwdriver to pry it open...Yes this was the case with some well known production manufactured titanium liner locks. There are two fixes Carbidized Ti Lock Face or Steel lock bar inserts which seems to be the better fix and obviously more work BUT the manufacturers found it best to eliminate lock stick.
 
Busto said:
Not Necessary until it locks up so tight you need a screwdriver to pry it open...Yes this was the case with some well known production manufactured titanium liner locks. There are two fixes Carbidized Ti Lock Face or Steel lock bar inserts which seems to be the better fix and obviously more work BUT the manufacturers found it best to eliminate lock stick.
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Not sure how I missed this tip when researching the build. Should I leave it or tear it back down? Can I do it with the knife together? It’s essentially a prototype to make sure it all works and holds up but I’ve already taken it apart once.
 
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Matt R said:
Not sure how I missed this tip when researching the build. Should I leave it or tear it back down? Can I do it with the knife together? It’s essentially a prototype to make sure it all works and holds up but I’ve already taken it apart once.
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If you have only taken it apart once you're a better builder than me....It would be hard to reach the lock face with the end of the Carbider electrode but worth a shot....If you assembled it once you can certainly do it a second time you just need to be able to see the lock face as you lay down the carbidizing. This is just one of the few stumbling blocks you trip over as you learn the process.
Two choices here...Leave it alone until it locks up completely...Tear it down correct the problem no future issue.
 
Busto said:
If you have only taken it apart once you're a better builder than me....It would be hard to reach the lock face with the end of the Carbider electrode but worth a shot....If you assembled it once you can certainly do it a second time you just need to be able to see the lock face as you lay down the carbidizing. This is just one of the few stumbling blocks you trip over as you learn the process.
Two choices here...Leave it alone until it locks up completely...Tear it down correct the problem no future issue.
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I had to replace one scale after tearing it down and the process did suck. I have to order a carbidizing tool but may try grinding down the electrode and see if I can do it with the knife together. Will carbidizing add to the length requiring me to adjust the lock or does it embed the titanium? Thanks for the help.
 
I would leave it as is and just use a graphite pencil on the lock face so it does not stick.
 
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