-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Fire Kit question
- Thread starter shok
- Start date
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
[youtube]LZ0epRjfGLw[/youtube]
But really though...it depends on how much you use it. It will last a long time...or a really long time.
I was just about to post that :thumbup:
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2009
- Messages
- 218
I've also seen it used in different ways.
One way was to start about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom and make a very hard strike. This would only use the bottom 1/3, leaving the top 2/3 untouched, The user would work their way around the rod. I would think this would be less effective at producing a spark however if your tinder is good to go it may be a way to prolong the life of the rod. And once the bottom 1/3 is pretty worn down, you'd just move up to the middle 1/3, progressing up to the top 1/3 at the end.
Obviously the other way to use it would be to start right at the top and strike all the way to the bottom. This would obviously use the whole rod, but presumably would take either less strikes or material to start each fire.
Personally I can't see using one till it's down to the nub, I'd probably get one or two more for backup long before one gets used too much. But that's just because I'm a sucker for gear....
One way was to start about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom and make a very hard strike. This would only use the bottom 1/3, leaving the top 2/3 untouched, The user would work their way around the rod. I would think this would be less effective at producing a spark however if your tinder is good to go it may be a way to prolong the life of the rod. And once the bottom 1/3 is pretty worn down, you'd just move up to the middle 1/3, progressing up to the top 1/3 at the end.
Obviously the other way to use it would be to start right at the top and strike all the way to the bottom. This would obviously use the whole rod, but presumably would take either less strikes or material to start each fire.
Personally I can't see using one till it's down to the nub, I'd probably get one or two more for backup long before one gets used too much. But that's just because I'm a sucker for gear....
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
Instruction that come with Fire kit :thumbup:
FIRE KIT INSTRUCTIONS & FIRE BUILDING TIPS:
Fire building is a step-by-step process with preparation being the key to success. Sources for reliable tinder that will catch readily from a small spark are bird and mouse nests, various tree barks, dead grasses, pocket lint, dry leaves or pre-packaged tinder. Once you have a good tinder bundle, gather progressively larger wood and have this ready before starting your fire.
Hold the fire starter over the top of your tinder bundle, then place the knife edge at the top of the flint rod and quickly move the fire starter backwards allowing the knife edge to scrape down the flint rod while holding the knife still . Keep striking until your sparks hit the tinder and ignite it. Using this method, you will avoid hitting and scattering your tinder bundle and also keep the sparks directed into the tinder. Once you have a flame, add more tinder and begin placing smaller, dry sticks over the top. Progressively build the fire bigger.
On rainy days it may be necessary to build a makeshift fire shelter from large leaves such as palm or fern fronds, dead branches, or by using the underside of a large log to protect your startup fire. When gathering firewood, always search out standing dead wood since it sheds more water than dead wood lying on the ground. The middle portions of standing dead trees will be dry. You can also break apart fallen dead wood for the drier center portion.
In a worst-case scenario, you can also use various items from a first-aid kit to help start a fire. Some insect repellents, ointments, alcohol prep pads, hand sanitizers and other first aid items are highly flammable.
FIRE KIT INSTRUCTIONS & FIRE BUILDING TIPS:
Fire building is a step-by-step process with preparation being the key to success. Sources for reliable tinder that will catch readily from a small spark are bird and mouse nests, various tree barks, dead grasses, pocket lint, dry leaves or pre-packaged tinder. Once you have a good tinder bundle, gather progressively larger wood and have this ready before starting your fire.
Hold the fire starter over the top of your tinder bundle, then place the knife edge at the top of the flint rod and quickly move the fire starter backwards allowing the knife edge to scrape down the flint rod while holding the knife still . Keep striking until your sparks hit the tinder and ignite it. Using this method, you will avoid hitting and scattering your tinder bundle and also keep the sparks directed into the tinder. Once you have a flame, add more tinder and begin placing smaller, dry sticks over the top. Progressively build the fire bigger.
On rainy days it may be necessary to build a makeshift fire shelter from large leaves such as palm or fern fronds, dead branches, or by using the underside of a large log to protect your startup fire. When gathering firewood, always search out standing dead wood since it sheds more water than dead wood lying on the ground. The middle portions of standing dead trees will be dry. You can also break apart fallen dead wood for the drier center portion.
In a worst-case scenario, you can also use various items from a first-aid kit to help start a fire. Some insect repellents, ointments, alcohol prep pads, hand sanitizers and other first aid items are highly flammable.
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2010
- Messages
- 622
At least a few thousannd fires.
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
I think I got one in Late 2008 or early 2009 and I just change the rod in one. I used it @ every camp-out
but again everyone useage is Different.
Some folk may scrape & scrape and are hard press for a fire due to tinder or lack there of good quality tinder.....
I'd say I got a good solid year out of mine w/o a Doubt :thumbup:
but again everyone useage is Different.
Some folk may scrape & scrape and are hard press for a fire due to tinder or lack there of good quality tinder.....
I'd say I got a good solid year out of mine w/o a Doubt :thumbup:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2009
- Messages
- 631
I think I got one in Late 2008 or early 2009 and I just change the rod in one. I used it @ every camp-out
but again everyone useage is Different.
Some folk may scrape & scrape and are hard press for a fire due to tinder or lack there of good quality tinder.....
I'd say I got a good solid year out of mine w/o a Doubt :thumbup:
i think you have 1 or 2 backups right?
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2009
- Messages
- 2,513
Varying stages of use. The top is unused (from my rat pack kit). The next one down has been hit maybe 20 times. The middle two are my users. They've seen a decent workout from camp fires to lighting grills. (ferro/misch metal kicks the snot out of anything I've ever lit a grill with) The bottom two are fairly new, and have just been scraped open and maybe 2-3 hits of spark.
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2010
- Messages
- 686
Tony,
you probably already answered this in another thread, but when you replaced your rod, did you go tap and die method or epoxy?
I have a new style (Rowen manufactured) that is epoxied in. I was wondering how hard the switch would be. Dunno if the metal would take a tap well or if I should just use Gorilla glue.
maybe I should just buy another to experiment on.
you probably already answered this in another thread, but when you replaced your rod, did you go tap and die method or epoxy?
I have a new style (Rowen manufactured) that is epoxied in. I was wondering how hard the switch would be. Dunno if the metal would take a tap well or if I should just use Gorilla glue.
maybe I should just buy another to experiment on.
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
All my ESEE fire Kits are the older versions except one.....and even my newer version will be replaceable after rod is used up, I will not expoy another rod inplace....
The one I replaced had a replaceable rod meaning if you look into the storage area inside the capsule you'd see a screw head. if so, undo screw ... drill & tap rod and good to go...just FYI ,I used blue loc-tie on mine just b/c.
If you have the non replaceable verson I am sure you can do the same but alittle more work... just use a 3/8"diameter by any length you like
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2010
- Messages
- 686
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
U R Welcome
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2010
- Messages
- 531
Yes just a Few
Where did you get the bic lighter sheath? or did you make it? do your kids have cool gear like this too?
?
- Joined
- May 25, 2007
- Messages
- 15,113
Where did you get the bic lighter sheath? or did you make it? do your kids have cool gear like this too?
a friend
...... 1 Kid & Yes... Wife too :thumbup:If I have all the cool gadjets that means I do all the work...Share the love & work