firesteel

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Aug 26, 2006
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this has more to do with the care of your edged tools in teh wilderness...so i will get on with it

i don't know how many times i have seen videos of "bushmen" using a firesteel to throw sparks, but they use the edge of thier knife.

"here is a firesteel, throws hot sparks. here is a mora that joe sharpened up so it is like a razor. watch this" he then takes the edge of teh knife and drags it down teh steel, throwing a massive pile of sparks.
this is an actual example i pulled from a real life video.

you might wonder what is so wrong with doing this...IT BITES A BIG CHUNK OUT OF THE EDGE OF YOUR BLADE!!!

i noticed it did this on the edge of the hacksaw blade i used as a striker i used for a while (i now use a small flake of real flint...much better), though not too severely.

to test what it did to a real knife, with a real edge, i took one of my beater knives with a sharp edge (an old serrated steak knife that i put an edge on with the grinder) and dragged it downt the last half inch of my steel, throwing a pile of sparks, and then i checked it out. the edge had little half holes burned out of the edge where the sparks were struck. i did read that a ferro rod's sparks will burn somewhere between 2000 degrees and 3000 degrees F. if i am not mistaken, this is enough to ruin the temper in that area of the blade, not to mention the micro serrations.

in a survival situation, or any situation, this is a stupid thing to do with your knife, as it will reduce its capability to do what you need it to do besides throwing sparks.

the sharp edge of a good knife is really unequalled though, for sparking. this tempts us, but there is a good alternative. we can get those small slider razors like this one:
istockphoto_78641_utility_knife.jpg

the little tiny ones that are only an inch or two long, that go on a key chain. there are also the cheapies that are very slim that slide into a slim metal sleeve instead of a plastic one.

it is important to use the proper tools for the job, and to not damage the ones that you have.
 
Sharpen a hacksaw blade maybe? I use a piece of round chainsaw file.
If it's not an expensive knife, take your dremel and cut multiple notches on the spine of the knife, so it has like a file edge. That will throw sparks.

For my money the raggedy piece of round file works great.
 
I use a piece of hacksaw blade.

Others have the spines of their knives squared off to a nice, sharp edge. The Fallkniven F-1 cones that way as did several of my Bark Rivers.
 
I don't think the time it takes to strike a rod is long enough to take the temper out of a blade. Maybe if you did it repeatedly very fast you could heat it up enough. It takes high heat in one area for a period of time to pull the temper out. I came up with these

striker2.JPG


as an alternative to the crappy striker that come with ferro rods. Mine are heat treated/tempered O1 steel with a bevel at the striking area. I've recently gone to one hole for the lanyard. Seems to work better.
Scott
 
the sharp edge of a good knife is really unequalled though, for sparking. this tempts us, but there is a good alternative. we can get those small slider razors like this one:
istockphoto_78641_utility_knife.jpg

the little tiny ones that are only an inch or two long, that go on a key chain. there are also the cheapies that are very slim that slide into a slim metal sleeve instead of a plastic one.

This is a good idea. Thanks. I think I'll pick one of those up the next time I go to a hardware store.

Of course, if you want to avoid needing even that, you can always go with the Ultimate Survival BlastMatch. (Review here):

http://www.kingsley-hughes.com/outdoors/bushcraft/fire/firesteels.asp

It's a one-hand operation device, so there's no need to carry a separate striker. I have one and it works very well, although I prefer a two-hand firesteel/striker combination. I think the preferences is simply because the two-handed combination is what I'm used to. No doubt if I made an effort, I could easily get used to the BlastMatch.
 
I don't think the time it takes to strike a rod is long enough to take the temper out of a blade. Maybe if you did it repeatedly very fast you could heat it up enough. It takes high heat in one area for a period of time to pull the temper out. I came up with these

striker2.JPG


as an alternative to the crappy striker that come with ferro rods. Mine are heat treated/tempered O1 steel with a bevel at the striking area. I've recently gone to one hole for the lanyard. Seems to work better.
Scott

Razorback,

That is one cool looking striker. :thumbup: What are the dimensions?
 
Scott, I saw your strikers earlier in a pic,
man that is the Cadillac of strikers!!

So, I envision you producing a nice sturdy survival knife, with survival sheath, and your striker with a ferro-rod already in the pouch. :thumbup:

The RSK, "RazorBack Survival Kit" , it's got a nice ring to it. :D
 
I just got off the river, man is it a nasty day,drizzling rain and 40 degrees, paddling a canoe is no fun on a day like this. My upper body was fine but the whole trip I was wishing for a nice wool blanket to throw over my legs, but it is good now, I have my pack and gear in front of the fireplace drying out, some sourdough in the oven and turkey soup with wild rice on the stove, life is good until we go out coon hunting tonight.:o

Anyway on to the topic, here is the stiker I make it is a new hacksaw blade cut at an angle and sharpened, it works geat as an exacto knife for fine cutting, shaving magnesium, and throws good sparks, the tip looks bent in the pic but it is straight. Chris

Picture696.jpg
 
Razorback,

That is one cool looking striker. :thumbup: What are the dimensions?

They are 3/32" thick, 1" wide, 3" long with a 1" finger cut out.
SkunkWerx, no doubt everything can be incorporated in one sheath. :D
What runningboar has done is as easy as it gets plus hacksaw blades are hard enough for a cutting edge. One drawback is they could snap in half or bend with two much pressure.
Scott
 
Runningboar,

That knife sheath (and knife) laying on that Fur, Fish, and Game looks interesting. Better picture?

Doc
 
use a good bi-metal hacksaw blade not any of the cheap Chinese crap that shatters. I like to use a metal cutting blade with fine teeth . I use the side with teeth on the steel or a magnesium block and it works better than anything else I have used. The edge of an old file works good to.
 
The spine of the saw on my Vic SAK works great at making sparks from my BSA Hotspark and firesteels.
 
And remember, you don't need steel for sparks with a ferro rod, a sharp stone etc. will work.

Doc
 
that's why i use a little flake of flint now. it is smaller and lighter and less obtrusive than my old hacksaw striker. it works just as well.

it also has that old timey look
 
Doc,
It is a regular ole, run of the mill Camillus Pilot survival knife I like the knife just OK but I love the sheath.

Rokjok,
It is rare indeed when someone has an original thought, I do know it is handy and you can put a surprising amount of force on the tip.

Chris
 
also, after using a steel striker, i found a peice of glass in a river one day and decided to try it...it was thick and strong...it threw much larger piles of sparks than the steel striker i used at the time.
 
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