First, and last, Rough Rider purchase

[Jessero]

So after seeing enough threads saying "Rough Rider knives aren't half bad!" I decided to give one a try. The one that appealed to me most was the "fat boy buttonlock" RR775. Ive been on a quest for a wood scaled knife that is about the size of a Spyderco Dragonfly, and decided to give it a whirl. It's only 11 bucks, right? Even if it is a bit rough around the edges, how bad could it be? Got it this morning, and got my answer... un-usably bad. First thing I notice is that it is a lot thicker than I was hoping... not a quality issue, I can live with that. Then I open it, and the liner lock doesn't feel like it really engaged. Put a small amount of gentle pressure on the spine, and yup, not locked in the slightest. Try to "make it lock" by giving the blade a little pull open... nope that's as far as it will open. Weak.... well maybe I can find a way to just shorten the metal piece on the liner lock. Then, I go to put it back in the box, and the little wooden "button" falls right out! In between my cars seats of course... All in all very disappointed with it. I know it was "only" 11 bucks shipped... but for that I could have a new Opinel, a simple SAK...shoot, I have a dollar store knife that has held up much longer than the 30 seconds this one did! And I don't think its a "made in china issue" either- I have a Byrd Robin 2 and it is 100X better quality than this "knife-like object". I think ill stick with tried and true Bucks, Vics, and Spydercos.

 

[Fish30114]

In those pictures I don't see how a liner, even if it was cut at the proper length would move away from either of those scales to perform a locking function. I wonder if that knife doesn't have another type of (albeit non-functional) lock. It does suck for the 'wooden button' to fall off, but if you figure out the locking issue, probably just supergluing it back on would fix that issue.

It surely is a 'cheap' knife---note I said nothing about cost.

 

[Charr]

In those pictures I don't see how a liner, even if it was cut at the proper length would move away from either of those scales to perform a locking function. I wonder if that knife doesn't have another type of (albeit non-functional) lock. It does suck for the 'wooden button' to fall off, but if you figure out the locking issue, probably just supergluing it back on would fix that issue.

It surely is a 'cheap' knife---note I said nothing about cost.

Second picture, the liner lock is recessed, and is not visible on the front portion of the liner. Look between the scales, toward the spine of the knife, like you would for spyderco's compression lock. In this case, I personally believe this lock to be fundamentally weak, regardless of whether or not it's cut properly, because of the direction force is applied to the liner.

 

[Goosey]

Most people talking about Rough Riders are talking about their traditional slipjoints. I have some, they include the following:

-Small Sowbelly Stockman
-Barlow
-Razor Trapper
-Moose

The Moose is the only one that had a problem, it seemed fine outta the box but a day later it suddenly developed an unbelievably gritty pull... which promptly went away. Weird. But that's gone now and I paid like $12 for the thing, which is probably the average price of these four knives. Sure, you can buy a Case or GEC for 5x or 10x the price but the Rough Riders are what they are, not bad.

I wouldn't buy a Rough Rider with a lock without others trying it first, IMO there's just more to go wrong at that price point.

 

[Shrub]

I've not had any of the fancier locking models. But, I have had a few regular Rough Rider trappers, a few stockmen and a "Five Blade" trapper.
My experiance was very positive. Cheap steel by "knife knut" standards, but not bad. They had the heat treat spot on.
I carried and used the 5 blade a good bit for 3 or 4 months. Novelty, but it felt decent in the hand, cut and held and edge well.

Anyway, point is, sorry your first try didn't go well, but if you get a chance to, you should try out one of thier slip-joints.
Preferably where you can handle it before you reach for your wallet.lol.

Better luck next time.

 

[shecky]

Whoever is running Rough Rider's line (SMKW?) hit a home run when they found a factory to produce the traditional slipjoint models. It does seem they source their various knives from different places. I've seen some of their "modern" designs that looked identical to some Mtech knives (not all that great or inspired), a couple that probably came from whoever makes Sanrenmu (pretty good), and a non knife item (nail clipper) that was ridiculously poorly made, as was its replacement. There is really only one traditional-ish Rough Rider (out of the dozen or so traditionally constructed RRs I've owned or currently own) that has stood out as being particularly bad: the imitation tortoiseshell trapperlock. I have two, the first was ridiculously poorly thought out, and its replacement, that was provided by a very gracious vendor. Which, while not exhibiting the same unbelievable problem as the first, had a different similarly ridiculously overlooked design issue.

So i guess, in conclusion, Rough Rider traditionals: highly recommended. Everything else: not so much.

 

[Jessero]

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't think about the fact that it might be a completely different factory producing the traditionals. And what Goosey, Shrub and shecky said all rings true with what ive seen posted- people happy with their Rough Rider traditionals. Maybe ill give one of those a try some day...

 

[DShiflet]

All 5 of the Rough Riders I have are slipjoints, and they are all fine. No super steel or anything like that, but nice looking and without any issues. I've got 2 Barlows, a canoe pattern, a moose pattern, and a peanut, and all 5 are certainly worth the money.

 

[B.F.U]

Rough Rider makes great low cost/high value traditional knives. I actually just got a small stockman today and it has great f&f, nice bone, file work, good springs/pulls, sharp edges, and only a tiny bit of wiggle in one blade. All for <$10 shipped.