First and Second (of many to come) ESEE knives

[KarlMaldensNose]

I couldn't help myself. They just arrived yesterday. These two looked so interesting when they dropped recently, especially at such great price points. I think an Izula would be a perfect compliment to them.

The Junglas arrived very sharp and doesn't need much touching up, but the Lite Machete is another story. Before I bought it I had read about how sharp this machete was out of box and how that was one of the reasons for its slightly increased price over some other more "unrefined" machetes. Not a big deal though, as I enjoy sharpening all my knives. Thing is, I've never dealt with a machete before. How should I approach this? The edge is very dull, ragged and uneven in various spots, so it will need a whole new primary edge put on it. Keep in mind I don't have a bench/belt grinder. What I do have at my disposal is a Sharpmaker, an Edge Pro, and mousepad with a bunch of wet/dry paper ranging from 120 to 2000 grit. I'm guessing the wet/dry paper and pad is the way to go.

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Even dull it still ripped through some unsuspecting overgrowth in my backyard.

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I nicked this retention trick off someone here... forget who, but thanks anyway.

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Sheath arrived like this. The tip was bent so it could be jammed fit into the shipping box. I can't find grommets that fit at the local craft place. Any ideas, either for where to find correct size grommets or another way to "stabilize" this area of the sheath?

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Thanks for looking.

 

[PayetteRucker]

Wet and dry works well on high carbon, period, especially that imacasa 1075. Lately I've been using a Lansky Puck to buff out all the dings and dents and chips (which works exceptionally efficiently) followed with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Very expedient way to sharpen a crappy machete edge.

 

[R.A.T.]

We don't re-profile or sharpen the convex edge that comes in from Imacasa/Condor. I usually just use a file to touch them up then go to work with them. If you use a machete a lot you will find that the edge is gonna get nicked, dull and beat up since hitting the ground and an occassional rock is just part of the job. The "selling point" for this machete is the handle since few machetes manufacturers put a decent handle on a factory blade. And that, in itself, is as just as important (if not more) than the edge itself, especially when you have to swing one all day as we do in South America.

 

[R.A.T.]

As a side note, we don't try to get a finely polished or hair splitting edge on a machete. The thin design and the work they do just doesn't call for it. As "crude" as a machete is, this is probably the most professional knife we sell.

 

[DOC-CANADA]

When it comes to machetes, a file is your friend.

Doc

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

I usually just use a file to touch them up then go to work with them.

When it comes to machetes, a file is your friend.

I'll try that. I've never used a file, not even on an axe. What kind of file should I be looking for for this purpose, and could this same file be used on my axes?

Wet and dry works well on high carbon, period, especially that imacasa 1075. Lately I've been using a Lansky Puck to buff out all the dings and dents and chips (which works exceptionally efficiently) followed with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Very expedient way to sharpen a crappy machete edge.

Ha! Funny you mention this, as that is exactly what I just tried... first a puck to smooth it out then on to wet and dry, but I started at 320 as I needed to establish a basic edge in some spots. So far so good.:thumbup:

 

[R.A.T.]

A standard flat bastard file works well. Can be found at any hardware store.

 

[texastonydobbs]

another thing to note is there is a very fine clear coating on the lite machete edge,go outside and chop some stuff with the factory edge to wear off that coating or you may gunk up you sharpening stone.

 

[tarditi]

If you prefer a stone, a puck-type is great to toss into your kit.

For the grommet, look to a marine/boat shop of maybe a camping outfitter. They often sell kits with everything you need (punch, peening block, etc.) and you will be surprised how much utility you can add to something when you add a grommet or two!

 

[DOC-CANADA]

Another machete tip:

Spray paint the blade with a rust preventative paint (like Trem Clad etc.) The paint will come off in the areas that contact the wood, but the contact, itself, will help prevent rust.

When you're back from a trip, etc., a quick touch up with the spray can works well.

Doc