First attempt at a knife. WIP

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Nov 20, 2010
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About two or three months ago I started looking for a knife to fill the gap between my Coal Creek Forge 'Hawk and my Bark River Gunny. After a lot of research and more hours of reviews than I care to remember it hit me. I know the guys from a local blade shop. They use .204 5160 spring steel to make swords and machetes for the coming zombie apocalypse, or at least that's what they have told me several times. Why not just make my own knife?

They gave me 2 pieces of their "scrap" almost 22" long and about 2 1/4" wide. The steel sat around for about a month before I got a shape on paper that I was happy with. Sorry no pics of the paper versions. I tried "cybering" it out, well my computer almost didn't live through that. I just settled for the paper and pencil approach.

Next I came to the part that makes me feel rather stupid. I got the pattern drawn on the steel, but had no idea how to get it cut (the stupid part is here) with out heating it and screwing it up (no it has not been heat treated). Um to say the least when the brain kicked in, I called myself some rather colorful things. It got cut and roughed out before I thought to take any pics...

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I went from the top to bottom with a chop off saw, a 4" angle grinder, and files.

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Its going to have about 6" of blade, 4.5 of handle, just over 1.25" from spine to edge, about 10.5" OAL.

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Next came the moment I would have liked to have had Gibbs around for a good head slap. I painted the blade to draw in the lines I wanted. Ya, um, a red sharpy works a lot better for many reasons, but the biggest was paint in a file is not fun, some carb cleaner and it was gone, still not fun.

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I don’t have access to any sort of grinding tool other than the 4” angle grinder and some files and not having used an angle grinder for any sort of “fine” work I opted for the files. I thought I knew how to use a file, and well, I was WRONG!!! Cutting in the main bevel on 5160 with a big file is a work out I have never seen before. I had no idea what I was in for when I started this.

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It was discouraging when I rolled it over and started on the other side. After two days work I was back to square one but it didn’t take long to get about a ¼ of the way there in much less time. The first side had taught me how to use a file, along with some time on the “Good Info” sticky.

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Sorry about the bad pic.

I’m kind of amazed at how close to square and center I’m keeping it thus far. The list of things left to do to it before I get it heat treated is growing ever shorter. I need to remember were I put my sanding block, drill the holes for the hardware, and finish off the bevel.

It only took me a little wile to figure out I jumped into this with both feet before I had any idea what it took, I am enjoying it though.

I know there are things I haven't considered or even thought of for that matter. Thanks for any advice or ideas any one has for me.
 
I remember my first attempt a making knives. It was about 6 at the same time. I used 01 tool steel. Should have focuses on only one at a time. I was more fortunate as I had a machine shop to work in with a new 2"x72" vari-speed belt grinder. I am enjoying your journey and it is well written. Am looking forward to the final results. Best of luck.
Ron
 
Cool. you are doing much better than me. i can not describe how ugly the blank was on my first couple. it was like watching a grisly murder of a steel bar with an angle grinder.
 
Great start, keep it up! Many of us filed the bevels on our first knives. I think if you can get past that and still want to make another one you may have caught the disease :D
 
...It only took me a little wile to figure out I jumped into this with both feet before I had any idea what it took, I am enjoying it though...

It's a lot like getting married or having kids. How tough can it be?!?!

You're doing well, and you've kept your sense of humor. It looks soooooo much better than the abominations I first made,... as compared to the abominations I make now. Thanks for sharing with us.

- Paul Meske
 
Thanks for the compliments.

I finished off the bevel on the second side, or at least have it close. I'm going to start sanding it in the next few days as soon as I figure out were I put my sanding block.

I have decided to use Corby bolts to mount my handle slabs, with a mod that I saw suggested in another thread I posted. Ill cut the screw head's deeper so that I can remove them and the slabs if I need to replace either. The plan is to use 3 of the large size brass corby's on either black G10 or Micarta.

Dose any one have suggestions on were to get good quality corbys and G10/Micarta? I had originally planned on making my own micarta, but after some reading I'm not sure I can get it done well enough for my intended purposes.

Again thanks for any advice or tips.
 
Wile I was looking for my sanding block and emery cloth I found two of the cut outs I used to get it on the steel. Got it all set up and ready to start sanding and snapped a few pics.

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With my Bark River Gunny.

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USAknifemaker.com will get you good micarta and corbys. Tracy also sells the counterbore for large corbys there... it is pricy but will probably save you a big headache trying to use different size drill bits to eyeball it.
 
An update on this project.

It took me a little wile longer than I had anticipated to get and figure out how to work with micarta slabs. The bad part was that I REALLY fubared the set I got from USAknifemaker. The good side was I found a local guy that sells handle slabs. I try and gets some pics of them up tomorrow.

I'm planning on useing some 1/4" bar stock for rivet/pins for 2 of the 3 holes and some 1/4" tube for the last for a place for the lanyard along with epoxy.

Question for y'all.

Aluminum or brass? I have been told the the brass will "swell" when hit, the same person said the the aluminum wouldn't. Is there any truth to this? is one better than the other for this?
 
Ok, so I didnt manage to get back as fast as i was thinking i would. But now i have pics and more progress.

My lessons in micarta started with the pair I got from USAknifemaker. Well, they are in no shape to be called handle slabs at this point, but it was a good $5 learning session. They also helped me find a local guy that sells handle slabs in all sorts of woods and other things. I didn't take much time to look, as he was in the middle of an elk.

I also hardened it today. In other words I went over to to the shop that gave the the steel to start with, and they walked me through it.

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Sorry bout the fuzzy pic

I'm really happy with the way the slabs came out, they just feel... right.

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As you can see it hasn't seen anything but a rag since coming out of the oil. I'm tempering it tomorrow in an oven at a buddy's house wile we play cards. Every thing I have read and what the guys at the shop told me is 450-475 for 2-3 hours to get it to 54-58 rc. This is going to be a field knife and will get beat on.

I'm not sure if I want to try my luck at using the 4x36 belt sander that I found I could use or if I should just finish it off with files and paper the way I have done the rest of it.

Any suggestions or advice any one can give me is appreciated.
 
My advice... avoid the temptation to use the 4 x 36. Sand by hand... but watch Nick Wheeler's video on the subject first.
 
LOL thanks tryppyr I have watched his video... several times.

I have it all cleaned up after the HT and got it down to the point I'm ready to put the final edge on it all with files. I can't count the number of times I almost set up the sander. The epoxy is setting right now, so tomorrow I'll start the final sanding, only going to 600.

If every thing works out right Ill get some pics of it up this weekend finished and getting put through some "intended purpose tests". That being I'm going to take it out make some fires (AKA baton wood and make feather sticks) and make some weeny sticks with it. I hope it survives long enough to get a sheath made for it next week. :D

Question, Would it be stupid to give a knife that already has its final edge a tempering session for no other reason than the color?
 
Are you just after the gold/straw color on the blade? You'll probably soften/ruin the epoxy and maybe even the scales, so I wouldn't do it.
 
So it has taken more time to get to this post than I thought it would, but I'm here. This knife is finaly finished with sheath and "testing" (read: I took it out and did things to it that boarder on abuse) and has survived.

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I wish i could attribute the blade shape to historical "survival knives" that were basically kitchen knives but.... no it was several things and none of them were planned.

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After modifying a few sheaths for a few of my cheep knives I have found I like the scout carry option and kydex, but don't like the looks of kydex.

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After three sets of snaps I decided that simple and interchangeable were good and used button studs for the strap closure.

With every thing done it comes out to just a hair over 5 3/4" long in the blade and 1 1/2" over all. I don't have a scale to put it on nor a RC tester but according to my dads butcher steel test its a little softer than my Bark River Gunny in A2 that is quoted at 58Rc. Not very scientific but is about as close as I have the funds to get.

It has been a huge learning experience, and a lot of fun to boot. Everything I learned in this one I have already put to work making two more knives, that are better than this one.

Thanks for looking and all the advice and help you all gave me to to get this at least close to knife shaped.
 
Awesome job and WIP.
Only "must give" advice is don't wait days to temper after hardening, you may get a nasty suprise with it being in such a strained state.
 
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