First attempt at new KME system

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Jun 11, 2008
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I finally got my new KME sharpening system for my birthday the other day. So far I sharpened two small pocket knives with decent results and now in the process of a larger kitchen knife. The kitchen knife I picked up at a local thrift store and wanted to practice on it to get better before I go to some of my expensive knives. Let me tell you this kitchen knife was dull, I mean butter knife dull. I could drag the blade across my hand and not even worry about getting cut. I decided to try and re-profile this blade to a 17 degree angle using my KME 50 grit beast diamond stone. I worked on it for the past two days an hour each night and still cant get a burr. I have had some issues with the knife moving slightly in the clamps and so I had to adjust it back to the original position the best I could and continue. I used a sharpie to mark the blade in the clamps so I know if it moves and if so I can place it back in the same location. Should it take this long to get a burr? Now when I said it was dull I mean it seamed like it was used to cut brick or wood. Not to sure what type of steel it is, it is a cheap kitchen knife and probably not the best steel. I will post pictures later when I get time. Also im getting tiny scratches on the blade above the actual bevel, what caused them? I am very new to this and could use your help, thanks.
 
Inspect the edge to see if it reflects light.
Or better just dull it again evenly so you can see nice and even reflection when you bring edge upside down to light.
Now sharpen with that 50 till the ligh is gone. This way you will know for sure you got to the apex.
Do this and the marker on the edge like everyone recommends.
When you apex the knife, burr or no burr, just go higher grit. Use your marker again to check whether the new stone is working similar to previous one. Inspect your scratches from time to time. It shows you whatsup. Try to go for a burr again.
Let us know how it goes.
 
Dont apex or bur with the 50 grit. Tooo coarse a stone for that. Use the 140.

The 50 should just be used to remove steel fast. Say the edge was at 22 deg and you wanted to go 17...it would be used to hog off most of that material then bur with the 140.
 
Dont apex or bur with the 50 grit. Tooo coarse a stone for that. Use the 140.

The 50 should just be used to remove steel fast. Say the edge was at 22 deg and you wanted to go 17...it would be used to hog off most of that material then bur with the 140.
That ^ 50 grit for re shaping and 140 to start the sharpening process and you will be good to go. good luck and have fun :cool::thumbsup:.
 
All my kitchen knives, cheap ones too, are the hardest steels Ive ever sharpened. They are also the most brittle.

I would switch your angle to maybe 20 degress at this point. You said you’re getting scratches at the shoulder which means you’re not fully on the edge with the stone. It may also help you to apex the edge.
 
Systems and freehand are fine for maintaining knives. For severely rounded and profiling a belt sander is fast and works great. I had the advantage of owning one so I didn't have to buy anything.
 
First, address the knife moving in the clamp. Start by wiping the blade down to ensure there is no residual oils that might make it slippery. Then get the blade lined up and give the tip-end corners of the clamps a serious squeeze as you crank down the tension knob. When I have a "slippery" knife like you have I generally pull the sharpener off the base so I can get the leverage I'm after. That should do it. If you do it right, I've found it'll hold probably 90+% of the time. If you still can't get it, then wrap a small piece of cloth-like tape over the spine to give the jaws something to bite. I have a roll of hockey tape but that isn't always readily available. Medical tape might work but I don't recall if I ever tried. Might not stick to the blade well enough. Masking tape is okay but it too tends to slip. But again, a really good pinch and really tight clamp and you'll probably get it.

Don't have the opportunity right now to re-watch this video but I think it is the one I want that shows the clamping process.


The scratches are probably from the stone slipping off the blade. Remember, diamonds like lighter pressure.

Something to be very conscious of is fatigue and frustration. If you're working at it too long and you start getting either of those things, you can easily start making mistakes. Too much pressure is often the first one and you can make a lot of strokes before you realize you're doing it. And that's hard on your stone and can just keep plowing steel off the bevel and you never feel the burr.

It's possible your knife started out at as much as 25dps so dropping to 17 is a pretty significant amount. Not sure where you started so not sure how much you're trying to trim away.

And I agree, with the 50 you could just be hogging the burr right off so you'll never feel it.
 
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Dont apex or bur with the 50 grit. Tooo coarse a stone for that. Use the 140.

The 50 should just be used to remove steel fast. Say the edge was at 22 deg and you wanted to go 17...it would be used to hog off most of that material then bur with the 140.
I went with what you said and used my 140, seemed to work well,thanks.
 
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All my kitchen knives, cheap ones too, are the hardest steels Ive ever sharpened. They are also the most brittle.

I would switch your angle to maybe 20 degress at this point. You said you’re getting scratches at the shoulder which means you’re not fully on the edge with the stone. It may also help you to apex the edge.
Yes I have hundreds of tiny scratches and not sure how they are getting there as the stone shouldn't even be touching that area. Now "APEX" means when the two sides meet? correct?
 
First, address the knife moving in the clamp. Start by wiping the blade down to ensure there is no residual oils that might make it slippery. Then get the blade lined up and give the tip-end corners of the clamps a serious squeeze as you crank down the tension knob. When I have a "slippery" knife like you have I generally pull the sharpener off the base so I can get the leverage I'm after. That should do it. If you do it right, I've found it'll hold probably 90+% of the time. If you still can't get it, then wrap a small piece of cloth-like tape over the spine to give the jaws something to bite. I have a roll of hockey tape but that isn't always readily available. Medical tape might work but I don't recall if I ever tried. Might not stick to the blade well enough. Masking tape is okay but it too tends to slip. But again, a really good pinch and really tight clamp and you'll probably get it.

Don't have the opportunity right now to re-watch this video but I think it is the one I want that shows the clamping process.


The scratches are probably from the stone slipping off the blade. Remember, diamonds like lighter pressure.

Something to be very conscious of is fatigue and frustration. If you're working at it too long and you start getting either of those things, you can easily start making mistakes. Too much pressure is often the first one and you can make a lot of strokes before you realize you're doing it. And that's hard on your stone and can just keep plowing steel off the bevel and you never feel the burr.

It's possible your knife started out at as much as 25dps so dropping to 17 is a pretty significant amount. Not sure where you started so not sure how much you're trying to trim away.

And I agree, with the 50 you could just be hogging the burr right off so you'll never feel it.
Hey thanks for all the tips, I will look into getting the hockey tape. I did see myself getting sloppy as the time went by and fatigue set in, Ill make sure I take my time for now on with breaks in between.
 
Yes I have hundreds of tiny scratches and not sure how they are getting there as the stone shouldn't even be touching that area. Now "APEX" means when the two sides meet? correct?
The scratches will happen with new diamond stones. You will have to sharpen 4 or 5 of the lesser expensive knives before that starts to go away. Also it would help to change your angle so it's not too low. Iirc there's another tip but I forget what it is. You can also use tape on the blade too.

Also get a spray bottle and spray the swarf off the blade rather than wiping it off and that will minimize the scratching from the particles your wiping off.
 
I finished my kitchen knife after two days and several hrs. It turned out good and sharp but has plenty of scratches on th blade just above the cutting edge. I will post pictures soon when I get time. I have been working a lot and picked up a part time job so now I work 7 days a week and just haven't had the time. I also sharpened my Esee Izula and my Keshaw, both are now razor sharp, pictures to come soon. Thanks everyone for the feedback and tips I appreciate it.
 
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