First Axe by Gransfors Bruks?

B

bcknives

Joined
Jun 22, 2012
Messages
337
Hello All!

I am a beginner in Bushcraft. I am currently trying to find a axe/hatchet, and I have been leaning towards Gransfors Bruks. I have heard remarkable things from them (which I am sure you all know already). So I will make a list of things that I will be using an axe/hatchet, below.

Things I need in an axe/hatchet:
Not to be big (I don't need a felling axe)
Not to small (I don't want a hand hatchet)
It needs to be able to chop through a small tree (at least a tree 5 inches in diameter)
It has to be able to do a bit of carving (nothing to fine)
I don't want anything over 2.5 lbs

That's it! Tell me what Gransfors Bruks would suit my needs?!
*I'd like it to be under $140 on amazon.com*
 
Sounds like you are describing the Scandinavian Forest Axe or the Small Forest Axe.

I would support a great small business and get it through Omaha Knife, likely for less than Amazon.
 
What Memphis said ;)

I have the forest axe and its a fine little axe. I believe that's the one you should go for. IMO the small forest axe really has no benefits over the forest axe.
The forest axe is certainly the better chopper of the two.

Memphis... Did you get my email?
 
No. They don't compare. The GB website description of the Carpenters Axe explains it's intended purpose. http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

M3mphis and bear nailed it. A choice between the Scandinavian Forest Axe and the Small Forest Axe. Both models can handle your list of requirements. I own a Scandinavian FA and like it. The Scandinavian FA is about 5" longer and a bit heavier so some people lean toward the smaller Small Forest Axe for portability and to do finer tasks.

There's some good comparison threads if you google the two models. They're both popular with the bushcraft guys.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17740&
 
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I've got a Council Velvicut Hudson Bay coming to me on Friday. I hope it's a nice as it seems. It was less than your $140 as well. These have been created to compare/compete with the GB's small axes.
Just something else to look at, and they are made in the USA!
 
GB are nice carvers if you work on the edge. Thats about it in my book. They are ground too thin where it should be thick and too thick where it should be thin. I think they are tempered too hard. Dont like the handles. Definitely dont like the price. I really like the looks of that Council forest service axe, with some thinning I would tend to say it would carve as well and do everything else better.
 
My CT Velvicut Hudson Bay preformed better that my vintage Plumb on this piece of popple. It's a sweet little axe.

 
G-pig said:
GB are nice carvers if you work on the edge. Thats about it in my book. They are ground too thin where it should be thick and too thick where it should be thin. I think they are tempered too hard. Dont like the handles. Definitely dont like the price. I really like the looks of that Council forest service axe, with some thinning I would tend to say it would carve as well and do everything else better.
Click to expand...

I wish you would quit mincing words and tell us how you REALLY feel!!! :p
 
scaled.php


My first GB axe would be this and if Robin Wood said so i could happily put my dough on it!
 
I definitely want to pick up the GB Swedish carving axe sometime. BUT I want it for carving. I can't imagine it's as versatile as something else, like the CT boy's axe or Hudson Bay. Given it's high price point, I wouldn't want to use it as a mediocre multi-purpose axe anyway.
 
Id like to try that pattern for carving myself..I started in wood working when I was a little boy..Ive made many a piece with draw knives and planes..Ive always wanted to get into sppin carving but never get around to it..
 
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:D:D
G-pig said:
GB are nice carvers if you work on the edge. Thats about it in my book. They are ground too thin where it should be thick and too thick where it should be thin. I think they are tempered too hard. Dont like the handles. Definitely dont like the price. I really like the looks of that Council forest service axe, with some thinning I would tend to say it would carve as well and do everything else better.
Click to expand...
Ive always had the theory that they were just designed for the softer european woods in mind..Thus the thin grind and very high hardness(57rc-58rc)..They seem to make great hand work axes and carving axes, something I think that gransfors has in mind with them...
I applaud your testicular fortitude, being brave enough to kick the sacred cow that is gransfors:D Now Ill hollar when the lynch mob comes and give you a head start :eek:
 
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Kentucky said:
:D:D
Ive always had the theory that they were just designed for the softer european woods in mind..Thus the thin grind and very high hardness(57rc-58rc)..They seem to make great hand work axes and carving axes, something I think that gransfors has in mind with them...
I applaud your testicular fortitude, being brave enough to kick the sacred cow that is gransfors:D Now Ill hollar when the lynch mob comes and give you a head start :eek:
Click to expand...

Ive been a critic of GB for a long time amongst the serious axe use circles. I wouldnt say they are designed for any type of wood (and certainly not softwood), they are bushcraft axes. For carving, cutting small dry pine for campfires and splitting kindling they are fine, although not as good as a vintage axe properly shaped. They are not for serious use. They will work, but not as well as a properly shaped axe. Cutting halfway through a log, or even making a few cuts you probably wont notice that much, hence the bushcrafters satisfaction. They arent traditional swedish patterns either, they are based off of american patterns with some important omissions.

Ive actually been saying this for 3 or 4 years and only got in e-fist fights a couple of times over it. Like M3mphis was saying, Maybe I should be a little more vocal about it.
 
User preference or needs really. There all fine axes and you can never have too many, just like hawks :)
 
I remember reading on Don Merchants blog (of pole and paddle canoe in Maine) about how a homesteader in Alaska had a gransfors. He wrote to Don saying that he paid out the arse for it and was perplexed by its lack luster performance. He sent it to Don who picked it up, immediately spotted the problem, swung it for a few minutes and sent the guy an old Maine made axe (I think it was a snow and nealley), the feller was floored by how much better the good axe cut. Don still has the GB I think, and said that it was excellent for cutting bean poles. Hes set a few folks straight on GB and axe shaping in general, one of the few who focuses on the “other” aspect of cheek profiling (the first of course being the now immensely well known high centerline) from edge to poll, and its effects on wedging, binding and chip popping. I can tell ya first hand that a nice fat Maine wedge pattern will throw one hell of a chip out of green pine.
 
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