First axe rehang and I have a question - Plumb axe head

[creativeguy]

I just picked up this 3.5 lb. Plumb axe head and attempted to rehang it. I shaved off a bit of wood to get a good fit but I may have stopped too early because I have a gap on the front side of the handle. I didn't think there was any way I was going to be able to remove enough wood to get it to fit perfectly but now I'm concerned that I'm going to have a loose axe head.

Do I try to take the wedges out and whittle the wood away until I can close that gap up or should I just use it until the head loosens up? Any advice on how to remove the wedges without killing my handle?

Also, I've read where some guys lightly sand their coated handles down and rub them with boiled linseed oil — do you guys recommend doing that?

Thanks for your patience with a newbie in this area, guys.

 

[G-pig]

Not sure where the fetish came from about the gaps to be honest. I have tons of axes with gaps all over the where that won't come loose with a well fitted wedge. if it comes loose, thats probably the wedge's fault. The spreading of the wedge kerf is what keeps the head tight with a tight wedge. bit to poll has much less to do with it. its fine the way it is if you ask me.

 

[creativeguy]

Thanks, G-pig. The wedge is definitely in nice and tight.

 

[halfaxe]

Looks good to me too. If you're worried about it you could carve a couple small shims and drive them in from the top and bottom and trim the excess with a knife. I wouldn't do the whole job over.

 

[Square_peg]

You can probably use it for years just like it is.

 

[Square_peg]

But if you did want to re-hang then here's how to remove the wedge.

Remove-an-axe-head-and-reuse-the-handle




Also, you can remove the metal wedges by drilling holes on each side of the wedge and pounding the tips of a pair of needle-nose vise grips into the holes to grip the metal wedge.

 

[creativeguy]

Thanks, guys. Appreciate the detailed response, Square_peg... good tips!

 

[bearhunter]

You can also drive in an old wedge sliver to fill the gap. I've done that a few times and it works well.
I also add a little Gorilla glue into the hole before I drive the piece in.

I have a 'pet peeve' about even the slightest gap. I just can't allow it

 

[Double Ott]

Creative, It looks like you did a nice job hanging your axe. I'm sure that it will preform for you just the way she is....
Nice workmanship.

Tom

 

[cooperhill]

I think it looks fine. The only proof will be in using it. I've found that felling is the best way to test a hang

Gorgeous axe and handle btw. Where is the handle from?

 

[creativeguy]

You can also drive in an old wedge sliver to fill the gap. I've done that a few times and it works well.
I also add a little Gorilla glue into the hole before I drive the piece in.

I have a 'pet peeve' about even the slightest gap. I just can't allow it

You sound like me as far as little things like that bugging you. The Gorilla Glue sounds good.

Creative, It looks like you did a nice job hanging your axe. I'm sure that it will preform for you just the way she is....
Nice workmanship.

Tom

Thanks, man!

I think it looks fine. The only proof will be in using it. I've found that felling is the best way to test a hang

Gorgeous axe and handle btw. Where is the handle from?

I picked the handle up from my local hardware store, Alaska Industrial Hardware. It was a 36" VB Supreme and I went through all of them to get this one which had the straightest grain. I lightly sanded it last night and put some BLO on it and it just looks and feels amazing. Can't wait to fell me a tree! :thumbup:

 

[killa_concept]

Yeah looks great to me! My only qualm (and it's probably just preference) is that the head could be closer to the shoulder of the handle. It essentially just makes for a slimmer grip under the eye, allowing you to choke up closer to the bit should you need to - more an issue with boy's axes and under though where you're more likely to do detail oriented work (like making tent pegs or what-have-you). If it's a dedicated chopper/limber/feller, it'll never be a problem. And if it is, you could always just rasp the shoulder off like so:

Regarding the gaps, it's only really an issue if the fit isn't tight enough, the head gets misaligned or (as is generally the case here) you're OCD If you're really that worried about the aesthetics of it, get some wood dust by sanding down the handle, mix the dust with wood glue and use that to fill the gaps. It should blend right in with the wood and not look tacky like with other solutions.

Also, for future re-handling projects, consider taking a tip from "An Axe to Grind" and use only the wooden wedge, really smacking it in there. With the couple of axes I've hung, I've left the metal wedge out. The axes have been used fairly extensively and I haven't noticed any loosening yet. And should they ever get a wee bit loose - I still have the metal wedges to tighten them up! Completely agree with the old guy that metal wedges aren't really needed for newly and properly hung axes..

When it comes to treating the handle, I also use BLO though I have a different method.. Generally, I'll rasp the handle to shape, sand with 60grit to get the rasp marks out, then finish with 120 into 220 grit. At that point I'll check to make sure all the lacquer is off (if there was any) then just slather the thing with the linseed oil. Don't bother with a rag - just a latex glove and pour it on. I'll let this soak in for a good 15-30 minutes before wiping the excess off with a rag. Let dry for a day or two then hit it with pad of 00 steel wool to get it down back down to wood. I personally have found that if I don't hit it with steel wool when all it said and done, there will be just the thinnest coat of BLO on the surface of the wood which can either be sticky or lacquer-y. Either way, it's annoying and I much prefer the feel of (more or less) bare wood. In my opinion, the point of using oil is to hydrate the wood - not to give a finish...

That all said, I'm really jealous of your axe! Great pattern, great shape and it looks like hardly any of the bit has been taken off over the years - lots of good tempered steel still left on the thing..

 

[bearhunter]

Hey Killa...
I thought I was the only one that used a little sawdust and glue
I use that technique for smaller little gaps
It works great

 

[killa_concept]

Haha - yeah, I never said I wasn't OCD myself Definitely not a trick to employ on big gaps that could be causing looseness, but it's definitely great for smaller aesthetic fixes. Also have fixed a few cracked wooden bolo & kukri handles this way to great success.

 

[bearhunter]

Haha - yeah, I never said I wasn't OCD myself Definitely not a trick to employ on big gaps that could be causing looseness, but it's definitely great for smaller aesthetic fixes. Also have fixed a few cracked wooden bolo & kukri handles this way to great success.

I use to work/manage a paint/restoration shop. We would use that technique on old doors, cabinets, etc.

 

[creativeguy]

Thanks, killa! I really appreciate your input. I'm definitely OCD about some of these things but my main concern in this case was function. Sounds like I'll be okay in that department from what everyone has said but I need to get out in the snow and try it out! We've got quite a bit right now.

I've used the glue and sawdust on repairs in the house — my brother who is a builder taught me that one and it's great! May just have to do that with this, haha.

 

[creativeguy]

That all said, I'm really jealous of your axe! Great pattern, great shape and it looks like hardly any of the bit has been taken off over the years - lots of good tempered steel still left on the thing..

Thanks! I watched "the bay" for awhile before grabbing that one. This is my first felling axe and I think it will suit my needs just fine. We heat our house solely with wood so a chainsaw does the majority of the work but I love to use a good hand tool when I can too!