First Axe Resto...good find?

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First, hello to all...new member here. I've recently been bitten by the axe bug and started to a small collection, though I used axes quite a bit when I was younger to split wood for the family. Back then, I never even sharpened whatever axe I grabbed out of the garage to split wood. Splitting wood is one of my favorite activities in the whole world, but I haven't needed to much recently. In the last few years, I have made much more use of machetes during my field work in Florida and South Carolina. I have a few different machetes (almost all modified) and all are sharp enough to shave with. I guess I need to post them up as well at some point.

As for axes, I don't quite remember when the bug bit, but it was recent. I was looking for a small axe to keep in my field vehicle to clear a trail in the rare instance it was needed. I've cut through some large pines with a machete and it took ages and killed my hand. After some research and digging, I fell for a Gransfors SFA, and picked one up locally. BTW, the North American distributor is just up the road, so I can get them locally for $20-30 less than online. I picked up my SFA for right at $100...awesome deal. I love it, and it's a piece of artwork as much as a working tool. I'm really looking forward to using it now that camping season is upon us. And I have a plan to get into some axe carving for furniture and the like.



I then wanted to re-handle a small (Harbor Freight, I believe) hatchet I was given a while ago. It turned out okay, but removing the fiberglass handle was terrible. It's sharp, but the steel is soft. It'll be a backup or root-chopping tool. I polished the head, but wasn't a fan of the polished look. Ah well...good practice. I did, however, get it razor sharp (then bent the edge), then reshaped it a little more convex...seems durable enough for a backup.

I then found a True Temper hatchet rebranded as a Roughneck at Northern Tool. It was stamped US, so I thought the steel would be good. I was very wrong....very soft...hit a few boards and the blade chipped a little. I returned it obviously.

So then I found this forum and it has given me a lot of information and ideas, so I signed up. Because of this forum and others, I went in search of an old, high quality head at the local flea market, and I think I found a good one.

I came across a "Kelly Axe and Tool Co." (non-Works) 3lb (I think) head, single bit with no handle for $15. My basic research suggests it from between 1904 and 1930 (but could possibly be younger). It's exactly the kind I was looking for. (FYI - the gentelman had a hewing axe head supposedly from the 1800s, as well as a large 4.5 lb. Plumb felling axe head...might need to go back). So I decided to restore it. No pics of before (typical rusty axe head), but here's what it looks like now.





It took quite a bit of cleaning, and whole lot of filing. Once I started (using an Indian steel double cut file) I knew it was good, hard steel...it took a lot of effort to remove material from the edge. Even the poll, which had some mushrooming unfortunately, was hard to file. I was very excited at the find. The cheeks were very thick, so I took a lot of time to get it sharp. It's now as sharp as some of my machetes (from double cut to single cut file, then to fine stone, then ceramic rod, then stopped), and while I haven't used it much yet, it's brutally, brutally sharp and seems like it will hold its edge. I hung it with a new handle, but it's not my best work. The eye is a bit narrow, so a ton of wood had to come off the Link 36" curved handle, and the eye was longer than the handle, so there is a bit of a gap. Admittedly not my best effort, but it's really on there good. If it comes loose, I'll start over. I tried to tighten the gap with a second wedge but it made things worse. But like I said, it's on there very tightly.


I sanded the handle and added a tung oil finish for now. I need to rasp the lower handle for increased grip, but it swings beautifully as it is. I decided against polishing the entire head...there's still some surface rust (and you can see some minor pitting), but I really like the look and feel (reminds me of my Gransfors). I feel it's an awesome piece, and for being 85-110 years old (I think), that makes it all the better. :thumbup:

So now for my questions:

1) Am I correct on the age?

2) Any guesses as to the pattern?

3) Any recommendations for handles that would fit this monster better?

4) Any recommendations for a good supplier of leather so I can make a sheath? I asked Saddleback (I have a wallet and belt) if I could buy some remnants, but they were only able to suggest Tandy Leather.

Thanks and I look forward to being a member here.

 

[killa_concept]

It's a Michigan pattern, probably a 3.5 lb originally. It's probably the most prolific pattern/size combo when it comes to vintage heads, so it would make sense. Personally not my favorite pattern, but it's a good one - great work axe when it comes to felling, bucking and limbing and the profile splits wood quite well too. I just am more drawn to patterns with shorter, wider bits like Jerseys or Connecticuts. All preference really. I used to own two Michigans, but I gave one of them to a friend. I still have one, hung on a 28" straight handle that I use the odd time:

That said, you'd probably find a 30-32" most comfortable. That's what most people go with for 3-4 lb axe heads.

As for the hang, from what I can tell you probably could have seated the head closer to the shoulder - that would have gotten it down to the wider portion of the wood. Also, the wooden wedge provided clearly wasn't long enough -it should have gone from the front all the way to the back of the eye. If you ever get one like that, don't be afraid to just make your own. A metal wedge really shouldn't be needed in my opinion.. if you hang it right with the wooden wedge, it'll be more than secure enough and you can hold onto the metal wedge in case the handle begins to loosen after a lot of usage.

And yes - if you have a Tandy Leather store nearby, that's your best bet. Saddleback probably isn't willing to sell you any because if he's like me and uses his leather efficiently, the scraps usually aren't going to be big enough for any sort of meaningful project. And he'd probably feel like he were screwing you over if he just sold you a couple sheets because shipping would be around the same cost as the leather (doubling the cost for you). Honestly just drop by your local Tandys if you have one and grab a shoulder of 8-9oz veg tanned leather. It'll set you back a good chunk, but you'll have enough for dozens of projects.

 

[Double Ott]

You have a nice older Kelly. It is pre- True Temper days. For some reason I can't remember when TT took ownership of Kelly this morning. It is a very nice axe.
You did a nice job bringing her back to a useful life. She'll last you for another generation or so...
Tom

 

[lmalterna]

I like mine lower on the shoulder and I would split/carve some hickory tapered and slightly larger than your gap at the front and drive in there. We used to force warm beeswax into the really small gaps to keep water out. Having no bees now, I use wax from toilet seals- one seal lasts a long long time

Bill

 

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Thanks everyone for the kind words and suggestions. I think I'll look around for a handle that might work better, and I definitely agree about it being high in the shoulder. However, that is sort of a "false" shoulder, as I had to remove a very significant amount of wood from the handle to get the head on. I thought it was odd that the handle I grabbed was way, way too wide (especially since it got wider as it moved towards the shoulder), but not long enough front to back. I actually ended up taking off quite a bit of wood using my angle grinder with a flap disc, as the rasp was taking forever to take of the amount of material needed.

I think I should have used a saw and cut directly into the shoulder and worked the handle from there. Thanks again for the tips, I'll be on the lookout for a different handle...perhaps a 28-32" handle as suggested, which may have a smaller eye wedge. Or, I may just pull it off and rework it to sit lower on the widest portion of the shoulder. Thanks for the suggestions again!

 

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Oh, and I like the beeswax/toilet rig wax idea, and I will likely make my own wedge as the store bought one wasn't wide enough (obviously) to fit the eye front to back. Thanks again!:thumbup:

 

[lmalterna]

Axe eyes befuddle me. SO many variations. I like intermediate sized heads and find eyes almost dead in between hatchet and boys axe size- some very tapered and other much more egg shaped. I am planning to learn to use a spokeshave and may try a drawknife to thin some down just below the shoulder. A good plane might help here also. Then recontour with a rasp.

I just took a full sized 32" down to fit a boys axe sized fire axe and it took lots of rasping, shaving and patience.

Wax is a useful thing nice weather resistant, pliable weather seal that is still easy to remove/refresh.

Bill

 

[Skiv]

I am planning to learn to use a spokeshave

Bill, if you're planning to buy a spokeshave for work on axe handles, I suggest a few things. You can probably find a new Stanley flat spokeshave at just about any hardware store. It'll cost you about 20 bucks. For about another 30 bucks, I suggest buying the A2-steel replacement blade for Stanley spokeshaves from Lee Valley. Then do a little fine filework on the bed area of the shave, removing gloppy paint there, and file or stone the contact area of the "iron" that clamps the blade to the bed. The blade is already well-lapped.

For your 50 bucks and some time, you've got a first-class spokeshave that will do the work. Then, like me, you can ask someone who loves you to buy you a high-end spokeshave for Christmas. I use 'em both, equally. Having used really cheap tools before I know it's possible to do good work with them, but it's damn sure harder to do good work with them.

 

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Yes, I was definitely a bit surprised to see how much wood had to come off of the handle I picked up. I've replaced heads before with easy success and little to no material needing to be removed, but this one had me a little baffled (as demonstrated by the less-then-stellar final result). I'm planning to use it very soon to gather wood for camping, so we'll see how it does. Then if it get loose too easily, I'll be either re-shaping the handle I have (if I don't mangle it too badly removing it) or picking up a better one. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

And I was really wanting a draw knife for the handle work...it's on my list for my next flea market/antique store/yard sale scrounging. The SFA worked good for shaving, but the draw knife would have been better for the work needed at the top of the shoulder.

 

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Okay, after hearing everyone's advice and agreeing on all the points (including some safety and durability concerns), I came to the conclusion that the handle I chose simply wasn't very well suited to my Kelly axe head...FYI it was a Link brand handle...great handle for a shorter, fatter eye, but not for my particular axe. I ran to Lowes and picked up a True Temper (go figure, right?) handle...36" curved, with a longer, thinner eye...perfect! So I pulled the head off (destroyed the top of the link handle in the process...any suggestions for a reuse?) and rehung the axe head. The fit is 10X better, and took about 10X less effort. I skipped the metal pin on the advice from here, and here are the results.





I would have preferred to keep a bit more handle above the eye, but it was essentially flush once it was seated all the way, so I cut off the portion that protruded and sanded it even with the handle to make it look nice and finished. The handle came with a thick lacquer that I sanded off, and finished the upper portion with 320 grit, while the bottom portion was left sanded with 60 grit fro better grip. Oh, and any small holes (like the staple in the bottom, and a very small gap in the head) were filled with a small dab of clear silicone to keep out any moisture or dirt. All I need now is some BLO and some beeswax like my Gransfors.

So now I have to ask the board...I would love to have the handle the same or similar color to my Gransfors handle. Will the BLO and beeswax treatment give it that color?

Also, does anyone have a good source for the beeswax coating?

Thanks!

 

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And once more for fun after a touch more sanding at the stamp:

 

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Also, for any fishermen out there, I have been putting a few coats of Abu Garcia reel oil on the head with great results...it's thick and seems to dry nicely, and because it's designed for saltwater reels, should keep the dirt and rust at bay very well.

 

[Skiv]

(destroyed the top of the link handle in the process...any suggestions for a reuse?)

If the rest of the handle is still in good shape, I'll usually save them to cut down for hammer or hatchet handles. I also save chunks of handles to use for soft drifts for hammering on things, or as wedge stock.

Could always do what someone suggested and use it to hickory-smoke a steak...

 

[SC T100]

Thanks! I'm thinking of either reshaping it for a small axe handle for a large hatchet I may come across...or a big fire poker!

 

[Square_peg]

Looks like a fine handle and good hang. Well done.

I would have preferred to keep a bit more handle above the eye, but it was essentially flush once it was seated all the way, so I cut off the portion that protruded and sanded it even with the handle to make it look nice and finished.

Some of us will rasp down the shoulder below the eye to seat the axe lower on the haft. That usually leaves plenty of haft protruding through the eye.

 

[Marcelo Cantu]

Nice job! Out of curiosity, why did you go with a 36" length?

 

[Square_peg]

Probably because 36" is the only thing offered in most hardware stores. 36" is best for splitting and let's face it, most people will seldom do anything else with an axe. Chainsaws do everything else.

 

[SC T100]

Looks like a fine handle and good hang. Well done.



Some of us will rasp down the shoulder below the eye to seat the axe lower on the haft. That usually leaves plenty of haft protruding through the eye.

Thanks! Yes, I did think of that, but the head was sitting so nicely I decided not to worry about it or risk getting it mis-aligned. I used axes with flush heads for many years when I was younger without any issues, and this head is on there much better than the beaters I used back then. If it loosens I will be surprised, but a metal pin or two could always remedy it as well. Edit: I forgot to mention, I actually did have to remove some of the shoulder to get it flush, especially near the poll. Once it was flush it was aligned so nicely I called it good.

Nice job! Out of curiosity, why did you go with a 36" length?

Probably because 36" is the only thing offered in most hardware stores. 36" is best for splitting and let's face it, most people will seldom do anything else with an axe. Chainsaws do everything else.

Bingo! I couldn't find anything shorter in the area. And to be quite honest, it feels like the correct length to me. Not sure why I prefer it (probably because it's all I've ever used) but it swings very nicely. I don't mind a little extra effort either...it's good exercise. Also, this axe will be a multi-purpose, so it will be used for both cutting downed logs for firewood (when camping for instance and I don't want to fire up a chainsaw near a campground) and splitting, so the extra length will keep the bit a little further from my feet which I'm happy about.

 

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The axes (and a few other handled tools) getting some attention. A few coats of Minwax stain went on the Kelley axe a week ago, and some light sanding and a few coats of BLO this weekend. The GB got a few coats of BLO as well.



I think I'll let them cure a week, and maybe throw another few BLO coats on then next weekend and they should be good to go for a long while. Oh, and you can see my re-done Harbor Freight hatchet back there too...it has a few coats of the Formby tung oil finish on it. I like that finish as well.

 

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I didn't like the Minwax/BLO feel...too laquery for me. So I sanded the entire handle back down and I'm re-doing the BLO. I thought since the Minwax was oil-based it would work well, but I guess I should have done more research. Sanded back to (mostly) bare wood last night, and added a coat of BLO. I think I'll do thin coats once a day for a week or so and call it good for a while.