First Build. Impatient

Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
141
Tools from Tandy got here and I still don't have any decent leather. Out of impatience I remembered I had a scrap of some deer hide in a closet, so decided to do a little pocket protector for my backup folder (Cold Steel AK-47). It gets used just for fine work, so mostly it sits in my back pocket and the G10 slowly eats a hole through my clothes, so I thought why not make a little fitted pocket protector, molded similar to what Gary does, and have the pocket clip go over my pocket and the leather.

Now I'm waiting on it to dry.
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I'm putting a belt loop on just in case I decide to forgo the pocket altogether.

Question: I think I'm on the right track here. I expect I should not use the stitch groover on deer hide as it's rather soft.
 
I don't believe I would use the groover on the deer skin. It is so soft that getting a decent line would be near impossible, as would consistent depth of the line.

The impatience you mention is something you need to work on getting rid of right now…..sooner than later.

The belt loop would have been much easier if you had put it on (stitched) before you glued it up (if it is glued up). If it is truly a pocket sheath, then it needs no belt loop.

Any chrome tanned leather such as deer skin really is not the best choice for the body of a sheath. Veg. Tan leather in about 6 oz. and up is a far better choice.

Paul
 
The stitch groover was useless on the deer, I tried a test patch. Just seemed like it pulled the top layer. Same thing with the beveler. This stuff is like suede. As for the belt loop I partly just wanted to do one to get the practice and partly think I may hang it on my belt on a part-time basis. We'll see. I agree I need real leather.

Anyway, not bad I think for a first effort.

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http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/ColdDeadHand/WP_20141112_0041.jpg


But seriously, how do you guys make it look so easy?!

;-)
 
Well after this frustration with the deer hide and after already spending probably about $150 on tools, I bit the bullet and ordered a hide from Hide House. I'm probably in the dog house with the wife.
"Economy Veg Dbl Shldr 7-8oz (Color: 85778-Natural 7-8oz) 1 $95.00"
I hope this is good, it seems about the cut and weight that's typically recommended around the forum.


Thanks to everyone around the sheath forum for all your encouragement and all the knowledge you've shared here.
 
Thats certainly a step up. Weight is good. Use this up and then for your next one get the premium double shoulder. Not a whole bunch difference $ wise but a lot cleaner nicer piece of leather. I was surprised that you got as much molding as you did on your deerhide. Its the wrong tannage for molding. Use distilled water for molding with your veg tan and see if you can find a product called Pro Carv by Bee Natural. It will help with your molding and help to keep your leatehr clean.
 
Going to make a little reading glasses pouch with fringe for my mother in law with this deer hide while I wait on my real leather.

Once real leather gets here I'm going to make a couple variations for my CS Finn Bear. It's a cheapo knife but dependable and I have probably 5 around here in the house and car. There is always one in my backpack when I'm out. It's kind of my ubiquitous knife, so I think I"ll start there.

Sheath project #3 will be for my Ontario RAT-3. My dad lives in the boonies in Colorado, so this is going to be kind of a surprise project for him. I'm going to acid etch his initials up near the spine of the blade, in case a bear gets him. Old family joke, my mom always says she's going to get his initials on his belt buckle for the same reason.
 
And Dave, thank you for letting me know about the leather, I don't feel so bad about the purchase now. I'm sure I'm still in the dog house though.
 
I usually watch the local leather shop for their special buys of economy tooling double shoulders (usually around $50 for 10-12 sf). Since I'm usually cutting things up for small items like holsters and sheaths, I don't mind working around the flaws. When making smaller items, it's not worth spending a fortune for premium slabs.

Good luck and enjoy the ride. I'm new at leather myself and have found the learning curve to be very enjoyable.
 
Make your glass case inside out. That will help keep fuzzys off the lens. Make your wife a coin purse or something similar. Then you'll be out of the doghouse. Have to disagree. Premium leather is not just cleaner (less flaws, like brands, scars etc). It does everything you do to the leather better. Cutting, stamping, tooling, edging, dyeing everything you do will be better. It is well worth the cost difference.
 
Dave, that would be a good candidate for a sticky in Sheaths & Such: "Things to Make Your Lady to Justify Leather Costs".

Coin purse? Probably not my gal. But something. Just need to figure out something she'd use. I'm thinking maybe a little EDC organizer for a folder and a small flashlight that fits in a specific pocket in her purse so it's always there.
 
Lots of little compartments and pockets are tough. Go big ...make the purse.
 
Make your glass case inside out. That will help keep fuzzys off the lens. Make your wife a coin purse or something similar. Then you'll be out of the doghouse. Have to disagree. Premium leather is not just cleaner (less flaws, like brands, scars etc). It does everything you do to the leather better. Cutting, stamping, tooling, edging, dyeing everything you do will be better. It is well worth the cost difference.
I agree. Without stepping on any toes I'll list my leather purchases in order of quality.

Hermann Oak- super premium by the foot, about $12/ft + shipping. Very good stamping and dyeing/molding quality, but vastly overpriced unless you are simply making a few small items.

Hide House "Premium Imported DS"- amazing quality, many of the feet easily match the Hermann Oak. A few stretch marks and, I believe, 1 scar/cut about the size of a quarter. Best stamping/dyeing/molding quality. Around $5-6 + shipping.

ST Leather Economy imported DS. Worked well for sheaths, however, it was a marked step down from the others. About the same price as the DS above. Actually, maybe a little more. Good stamping/molding, hard to dye.

Wicket&Craig remnant. Unsure of cut or storing quality. Dye is a pain and the back side is very nappy. Bought for using as inlay window leather and in that capacity it's fine, just takes a lot of work to dye nicely.

Various brands of strap leather, Tandy, HO etc... If you're going to make a lot of straps just have the tannery/seller cut you a straight edge on a large hide and cut the straps yourself. I use straps for danglers and wrist cuffs.

My observation on quality comes down to how much effort you are willing to put into working it. A somewhat shoddy piece can be sanded on the back and stamped on the front. Forget about dye (use neatsfoot like many often do) and you can turn out a good piece. If you're going to stamp/dye/finish the suppleness gets lost so that hasn't really been a huge concern, however, it's worth noting that I've had a couple of pieces of work with crazing at the fold (pouch designs), although this may be down to how deeply I stamped. I hate when stamping blows out on a bend and I'm fairly heavy handed.

I haven't tried the Eco piece from HH, but I'd venture to guess that it'll be suitable, especially if it comes from the same tannery as the premium DS. I'd love to hear how you find it. Obviously quality is going to vary from hide to hide, but if the Hide House's grading stays consistent I'll be most pleased to use their premium DS until that is no longer the case. It's well trimmed and nearly all of it is usable unlike some DS's.
 
I had to delay the leather order for a week due to some unexpected doctor bills (are they ever expected?).
Hide House has some AWESOME customer service and really came through, called back today and the order is processing.
I will be sure to let you know what I think of it, even if I have no frame of reference.
 
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