FIRST BUSSE! Or a CUSTOM? Need help and advice please

Hale Storm

Kydex Whisperer
Gold Member
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
2,790
Thinking of getting my first Busse or getting a custom from one of the makers here on the forum. At around the $400-$500 mark, I have multiple options and I'm open minded. I know there are many here and I want to see them.

The primary use will be for hunting (predators, whitetails, and hogs up to elk), with a secondary use as an all around outdoors knife; small wood processing, minimal camp chores, bushcraft, etc. I will have a Survive!Knives GSO 3.5 in CPM-20CV for camp duty and food processing. Larger duties around the woods and camp will be with a Gransfors Bruks American Felling axe and a GB Small Forest axe.

I'm not interested in any of the Busse kin at this time. Only Busse and only INFI.

Here's my questions, thoughts, criteria, and concerns.

1. Leaning towards the SOB. I like the deep belly for skinning but wonder about slicing during meat processing. Is it too thick of a blade to be useful?
2. Corrosion resistance - I've read both sides here and even a few posts that INFI rusts very easily, although that seems strange in the ratio of those who say it's properties resemble stainless much more than carbon steels.
3. Corrosion resistance - Understand I'm in the South. We have 80% relative humidity year round and our summer season is almost 6 months long with temps in the 90's and the real hot months at 100 or above.
Any hard work outside results in soaking wet clothing from sweating. As an example, I took my S30V ZT0350 on my last work day at the deer lease and after a full day of sweat soaked shorts, my blade had already started spot rusting in my pocket.
4. Fanboys are okay (I'm a fanboy for some blades too) but I really want to hear objective thoughts from actual use of the blades.
5. Pics of users would be nice. I've seen thousands of safe queen pics. Show me the one you use and carry for an extended period of time that has some wear and visble marks from use.
6. If you recommend a custom, pics are almost a must (BF makers only), and remember, I like blades around 5" and deep bellies for skinning. Drop points or staright spines only. I do not like clip points on fixed blades.
7. On the blade shape and belly, I'm looking for a nice balance of sharp point and deep belly but no clip point blades, and the belly is the most important in the design. The SOB seems right there from the pics.
Hope that is enough info.
Thanks to everyone in advance.

Let the fun begin!!!
 
Welcome,

1. As I'm sure you already know, using animal fat or some other natural food safe corrosion inhibitor is generally a must in high humidity environments. Since you already know that you're going to be skinning game you should be covered. INFI can rust but I hardly ever see it. Again, in your case it shouldn't matter because you can easily maintain it during field use.
2. SOB is loved by many here as a dedicated user blade instead of a safe queen. If you're skinning larger game I don't see the SOB's thickness being an issue, but again that goes back to skill and experience skinning game. I personally think you should be fine.
3. If you are in the market for only 1 busse knife now or in the foreseeable future -- I recommend acquiring a game skinning specific knife for $20 and spending your 400-500 on either a TGLB for an all around camp/fighting/cool knife. It's going to do a good job of chopping, fire processing, and other basic camp chores. That knife has a huge following around here.
4. I say go for the ASHBM -- leave those axes behind and enjoy a highly effective and attractive blade in the battle mistress. There's videos of users feather sticking with their ASHBM with great success. There's really something special about that blade. Just my opinion. Whatever you choose I'm sure you'll be satisfied. Cheers!
 
I have a Busse Active Duty, satin with Snakeskin handle scales, acquired in 2002. It has cleaned many fish, been used for an EDC at times, with the chores that entails. It has opened several metal (not aluminum) cans. It has never been oiled, just rinsed with water and generally wiped on a jeans leg after use. It has been stored in a leather sheath continually. It has never exhibited any rust and to this day has never been resharpened. It will still shave, albeit requiring more pressure than when it was new.

Out of approximately 120 INFI blades in use or storage, only three INFI knives have ever exhibited any rust. One is a double-cut Uncle MOFO with small spots on the blade I cannot definitively say are rust. The other three are competition finishes from which I never removed the decarb. The worst one is a comp finish Sarsquatch which has seen heavy use and I consider the stains on it to just exhibit "character." They do not rust deeply, only superficial surface stains. Whoever told you that INFI rusts easily is all wet, has an axe to grind, or is dealing with one blade or a very small sample.

As for heat and humidity, I live and play in central Alabama.

The only reason I would ever choose a custom over a Busse would be if a custom had a design I wanted that was not available from Busse. That has happened exactly three times, once when I wanted a classic small semi-skinner and bought a Dozier, once with an Arno Bernard Rhino I fell in love with, and once with a Ruana that was so close in design to a knife my dad made for me when I was a kid that I had to have it. (I don't think any of these could be called true customs, BTW.) I also have a Steingas, a true custom, which I bought mostly because it was being sold for a charitable cause, although it is a fine knife.

The SOB is almost the perfect all-rounder for the use you describe, although let's be frank. The perfect blade for food prep (ie, slicing) will have a thinner blade than the SOB. However, it will do ok.

Actually, my ideal blade for the uses you describe would be the Active Duty in one of its thinner iterations. however I am biased as the AD is the best small blade that Busse ever made in my opinion.
 
Welcome,

1. As I'm sure you already know, using animal fat or some other natural food safe corrosion inhibitor is generally a must in high humidity environments. Since you already know that you're going to be skinning game you should be covered. INFI can rust but I hardly ever see it. Again, in your case it shouldn't matter because you can easily maintain it during field use.
2. SOB is loved by many here as a dedicated user blade instead of a safe queen. If you're skinning larger game I don't see the SOB's thickness being an issue, but again that goes back to skill and experience skinning game. I personally think you should be fine.
3. If you are in the market for only 1 busse knife now or in the foreseeable future -- I recommend acquiring a game skinning specific knife for $20 and spending your 400-500 on either a TGLB for an all around camp/fighting/cool knife. It's going to do a good job of chopping, fire processing, and other basic camp chores. That knife has a huge following around here.
4. I say go for the ASHBM -- leave those axes behind and enjoy a highly effective and attractive blade in the battle mistress. There's videos of users feather sticking with their ASHBM with great success. There's really something special about that blade. Just my opinion. Whatever you choose I'm sure you'll be satisfied. Cheers!

Rob_Mob - Thanks for the quick response.
I guess I need to add some more info too.
1. I've been hunting, skinning, field dressing, woodcrafting, survivaling (survivaling - LOL), for almost 40 years. Always keep a small bottle of mineral oil (becasue it's food safe and won't sour) in my pack for final cleaning, and hog/deer fat is a great rust preventer in the filed until proper cleaning can be done.
2. Hundreds of animals skinned and cleaned. I can check that off my list for the SOB.
3. I've been through the $20.00, $50.00, $100.00, $200.00 and up skinning knives and now I'm here. I edc CRK's, etc. and I can afford the Busse's so I want one. I have other blades from Survive, Becker, Esee, etc. for fun stuff. At the moment, the belly looks too shallow and the blade too long for what I'm looking for but the cool factor is way high on the TGLB.
4. Who doesn't want a BM? LOL. I certainly do, and like most Busse owners, I know I'll end up with more than one. But for the moment, that's not where my needs are.
 
MikeH -
The SOB is almost the perfect all-rounder for the use you describe, although let's be frank. The perfect blade for food prep (ie, slicing) will have a thinner blade than the SOB. However, it will do ok.

Actually, my ideal blade for the uses you describe would be the Active Duty in one of its thinner iterations. however I am biased as the AD is the best small blade that Busse ever made in my opinion.


Any pics of the size comparisons? Is the AD close in size to my Survive GSO 3.5? Thinner is okay to a degree but is it smaller or larger in size comapred to the SOB?
 
Yea I hear you Ronnie,

In that case call Busse to see if they have any blanks for other small Busse knives -- if they do come back here and list them -- maybe we can all brainstorm to get the right one for your needs. It looks like the SOB will serve you really well. If you want you can always get more "fun" (lol I hate that term -- I consider all my Busse knives necessities) Busse knives later. For now the ergos, size, blade shape, and price point of the SOB is right up your alley.
 
Yea I hear you Ronnie,

In that case call Busse to see if they have any blanks for other small Busse knives -- if they do come back here and list them -- maybe we can all brainstorm to get the right one for your needs. It looks like the SOB will serve you really well. If you want you can always get more "fun" (lol I hate that term -- I consider all my Busse knives necessities) Busse knives later. For now the ergos, size, blade shape, and price point of the SOB is right up your alley.

Busse sells blanks? Does that mean I can buy a blank and put my own scales on it? That would be perfect. Something tells me Jerry wouldn't send me an incomplete knife for me to add scales to, know matter how experienced i might be at doing it. I assume you mean if he had a blank in stock, he could build the knife and I wouldn't need to wait 3 montsh or so to get it.

I will try to call today.
 
MikeH -


Any pics of the size comparisons? Is the AD close in size to my Survive GSO 3.5? Thinner is okay to a degree but is it smaller or larger in size comapred to the SOB?

Hale Storm,

Not sure if the AD is the same specs as the MaxDuty from Blade2014 but heres my MaxDuty on the top right and theres even an SOB in there for size comparison I'll try and get a better pic today.
The MaxDuty is a really thin version of the AD but in Elmax its a hell of a slicer and will be with me hunting this year. Maybe someone will remember the specs on it.
RAKiCse.jpg


Hope it helps.
 
Hale Storm,

Not sure if the AD is the same specs as the MaxDuty from Blade2014 but heres my MaxDuty on the top right and theres even an SOB in there for size comparison I'll try and get a better pic today.
The MaxDuty is a really thin version of the AD but in Elmax its a hell of a slicer and will be with me hunting this year. Maybe someone will remember the specs on it.
RAKiCse.jpg


Hope it helps.

THANK YOU for the pic. Looks like the AD and max are right in the area with my GSO 3.5. I need to go bigger so the SOB is looking good so far as the one to have. We'll see as other members weigh in.
 
If I were looking for a piece of INFI to meet these requirements, I would personally be looking for an INFI RMD if I could find one for sale before it vanished. I have a regular RMD, and it is outstanding. I have been hunting and "survivaling" for about 15, and 10 years respectively, and I have no doubts that the RMD would excel in these areas, except for the higher tendency of SR101 to form rust. It's not a rust magnet by any means, but INFI is light years better in corrosion resistance.

Anywho, an INFI RMD would be my nomination.
 
Seems to me that you are looking for a User here real soon for upcoming hunting seasons (already started here for Bow) if you intend to pick up something on the exchange that's a good chance if you are thinking of placing an order with the girls in the office you might get it in time for Christmas....I cleaned a javalina recently with my SOB it worked well however my unfamiliarity with the SOB took me a bit longer than I think I could have done it with my AD...I like the AD's its served me well with game chores....Best of luck in your quest.
 
As far as INFI rusting , I have tried to patina INFI , it isn't happening, there have been tests using salt water over night, light spotting developed and was wiped clean using water and sand , as was recommended , the RMD in INfI is great, as is the SOB , the active duty also mentioned is great for you as we'll being that it is at a higher hardness, 62 or so I believe .

When Infi rusts it is surface rust , it does not pit .

As for other makers,

Fiddlebacks are nice
Iz Turley of turley knives makes a mean outdoors knife although his wait list is insane but you may be able to pick up something on the secondary market
 
Busse sells blanks? Does that mean I can buy a blank and put my own scales on it? That would be perfect. Something tells me Jerry wouldn't send me an incomplete knife for me to add scales to, know matter how experienced i might be at doing it. I assume you mean if he had a blank in stock, he could build the knife and I wouldn't need to wait 3 montsh or so to get it.

I will try to call today.

No, I don't believe so, sorry. Definitely call & ask to be sure, because although I moderate this forum I do not actually work for Busse. Never heard of them selling an incomplete knife though.
 
Perhaps a decent used Skinny ASH1? A bit longer than you described, but...Good Luck in your choice.
 
Is the Busse Comp finish more prone to rust than the satin finish? I read that it was.

Some don't like the Comp finish but I do. Corrosion resistance is more important to me than looks though.
 
A satin finish will always be more corrosion resistant than a rough finish will be as there is less spots for moisture to hang out in.
 
Ronnie,

Based on your criteria, I think a satin SOB would be a good choice.

INFI is not stainless, but it does not rust easily. I use a Busse Boney Active Duty (BAD) in the kitchen, and I have let it lie in a wet sink for extended periods of time, and the rust seems to only form where it does not dry quickly, such as in a few spots on the steel by the edge of the handle. Also, I handle uncoated INFI in the house (in a fairly well-controlled temperature and humidity environment) and I do not always wipe it off and I have had no problem with rust on these knives. For a non-stainless steel, INFI is pretty rust resistant.

Concerning handles, I believe the Busse Custom Shop will put about any kind/size handle on a knife that you want; give Garth at Busse a call.

Gene
 
BATAC will work for you as well I suspect, they are out there in a couple of thicknesses as well as satin and coated. This model has warmed as one of my favourites in recent time. I have an SOB and a INFI RMD going to head this way soon but as I yet i can't provide a comparision.
 
Is the Busse Comp finish more prone to rust than the satin finish? I read that it was.

Some don't like the Comp finish but I do. Corrosion resistance is more important to me than looks though.


The first generation CF blades (SARSquatch and Jackhammer) did have surface rust issues and gave the CF a bad name. After that, Busse did a better job of removing the decarb layer, which was what was showing the corrosion. I don't have any of the newre CF blades, but reports here on rust are way down compared to Gen 1.

No personal experience here with any Busse blade for game, but Garth has said frequently that he still carries his Active Duty, and that it has skinned many a deer. The AD may not have as much belly as you prefer.

How about the Muk?
 
Back
Top