First cable Damascus attempt

A.McPherson

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Jan 27, 2012
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I’m about to attempt my first go at some cable Damascus, by hand.

Anybody have any tips?? I mean other than to get a power hammer... or a press... :-D
 
Weld the ends. Untwist a bit when fluxing. Twist very tight at welding heat. Turn anti clockwise when hammering all around.
Flatten.
 
I'm pretty sure he means with the twist to help keep the twist tights while setting the weld.

A few other things I'd add is to do a lot more heats with lighter blows to ""set" the weld. You'll feel as it solidifies into a forgeable mass.

Using a swedge block or any spring fuller tooling you have like what you'd use for putting tenons on the end of a bar, to help compress the billet in all directions as opposed to only vertically. (I hope that makes sense).
 
.....Using a swedge block......to help compress the billet in all directions as opposed to only vertically. ...

This will really help a lot. If you don't have one, either make one out of a block of mild steel on a milling machine, or find something with a 3/4" to 1" roundish depression down it.

If you don't have a mill, you can make a junkyard swedge tool like this:
Get a block of mild steel about 4X4X1".
Cut a 2" to 3" length of square stock that fits your anvil's hardie hole.
Drill a hole in the center of the block that the square stub will fit in. Drill it about 1/2" deep. You can grind the corners on the stub a bit if needed to make it a tight fit.
Put the stub in the hole and weld it up ( make sure it is straight). Clean up any overweld so the block can sit flush on the anvil in the hardie.
Cut a 3" to 4" piece of 1" heavy gauge pipe in half lengthwise. Schedule 80 black iron, or stainless is best.
Weld it to the top side of the block, hollow side up. Build up the welds to make them strong, and add a couple pieces of 3/8 " square stock as filler braces if needed to support the pipe sides.

Set the wire rope billet in the groove when at welding heat and hamer lightly as you turn. If you have a buddy there, have him grip the end with tongs or pliers to allow you to twist the billet tight as you set the welds. The buddy system allows a longer billet to be welded up and assures tight welds.

Don't worry about the ends welding perfect, you usually cut an inch or more off to get back to firmly welded steel.

The above hardie tool idea can be made with a piece of round stock on the top for fullering and drawing, a row of 1/4" round stock welded side by side for doing ladder pattern, a trailer hitch ball for working domed things, etc.
 
Anhydrous borax soaks in better than 20 mule team.
TEM4yzS.jpg
 
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I read in one old book where he mixed the borax in alcohol and then gave the billet a soak to get the borax inside. I don't know if that's a good idea but it sounded ok. Has anyone tried it?
 
I made some with my mentor the same as others we did knock it around when we untwisted it. I also made some in a thin round pipe just bigger than the clean cable I left it just barley loose and used some 1084 powder I liked the idea that I would at least know some of its composition. Here is a shot of one I need to re-handle.
UI77sR7m.jpg
 
well... it didn't go horribly. still up in the air if it has any inclusions that matter or not. it does have a few spots that didn't weld up right. and I know why. I did not consolidate the material enough before I moved on to shaping it. That's basically it.
I'll post pics of my progress a little later on so all you guys out there who want to try can see my mistakes ad avoid them! :-D
the knife kinda looks like crap right now and I'm a bit hesitant to share, but what the heck! it's a work in progress!
 
Alright so here’s a couple of pics of the knife at this point.

Lq0NOaa.jpg


Hc71Dhb.jpg


As you can see there are a couple of welds that didn’t take near the spine. I’m going to go ahead with the knife and hope it doesn’t fail during the quench. Wish me luck!!
 
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Looks good. Maybe those couple of spots where weld didn't take will grind out post ht
And good luck
 
Here is a trick I have used and heard of others doing:
If you have a non-weld in a billet (especially cable), use TIG or MIG to weld over it. Grind flush and finish the blade. It may show a bit as a different share of metal if you don't use similar filler to the billet material, but it won't be an open weld.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
Thanks, I was thinking of doing that... I'm going over to a friend's house on Monday, he's got more equipment than I do, so I'm hoping that we can get it fixed. We're also going to give it a second go as well.
I've just got a old crappy stick welder to make my globular, amateurish attempts at welding. not ideal for the job!
 
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