First D2 reed knife (Finally Success)

galadduin

galadduin

Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
1,363
It is D2, what more can I say :D .

231z87

231zc3


Tomorrow I will post it and another reed knife (K510) with handle.
 
shgeo said:
It sort of looks like a fixed blade straight razor.
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I agree, thats made on request, not of my liking, it just too straight and plain but it is supposed to be plain and with perfect bevel. It was the most flat flat-ground knife I have ever made :D .
 
galadduin said:
I agree, thats made on request, not of my liking, it just too straight and plain but it is supposed to be plain and with perfect bevel. It was the most flat flat-ground knife I have ever made :D .
Click to expand...

I meant my post as a compliment. It looks great, simple, but elegant. :)
 
Galadduin,That is pretty much what you want in a reed knife.I would suggest you dispense with the flat area along the spine and taper it all the way to the spine.It should be a triangle in cross section.That also makes lapping it flat easier.Hand lapping is not too hard with some practice.After you have filed/ground the knife to shape,wipe a granite surfacing stone ( or a heavy steel plate that is ABSOLUTELY flat) with some water.Place a sheet of wet-or-dry paper on it and run a roller over it to adhere the paper with a water film.Wet the grit side with a spray bottle of water and a few drops of dish soap, and start lapping .Start with 120 grit and go up to 2000 grit.Polish and hone on a sheet of leather glued to a piece of 25mm plywood(MDF is even better).Charge the leather with oil and powdered rouge.That will make a hair splitting edge.
A long time ago I worked in pathology at a hospital and prepared the tissue samples for histology and autopsy.For microtome blades we used to hone them on a sheet of 6mm plate glass with a rouge and clove oil paste on it.We could get the surface absolutely flat and the edge down to 1/4 micron or less.Sometimes you would spend two hours lapping and honing a blade.A lot of work,but when you are making slices that are one cell thick it has to be SHARP.
For lapping wear rubber gloves and use your finger tips to move the blade around in a figure eight motion(Sort of like an Ouija board) .As the grit gets finer use only a diagonal draw(away from the edge).Honing on leather is a straight backwards draw.On glass you can hone in a figure eight pattern.The gloves give a good friction grip on the blade and prevent your fingers from getting sanded away and stained by the rouge.
Stacy
 
Looks good, and should be a super cutter! I would call that one WHONK, because it would be a good kitchen heavy cutter, and go WHONK on the board. Whatcha think, good name? You could do lots of duties with that big baby.
 
bladsmth said:
Galadduin,That is pretty much what you want in a reed knife.I would suggest you dispense with the flat area along the spine and taper it all the way to the spine.It should be a triangle in cross section.That also makes lapping it flat easier.Hand lapping is not too hard with some practice.After you have filed/ground the knife to shape,wipe a granite surfacing stone ( or a heavy steel plate that is ABSOLUTELY flat) with some water.Place a sheet of wet-or-dry paper on it and run a roller over it to adhere the paper with a water film.Wet the grit side with a spray bottle of water and a few drops of dish soap, and start lapping .Start with 120 grit and go up to 2000 grit.Polish and hone on a sheet of leather glued to a piece of 25mm plywood(MDF is even better).Charge the leather with oil and powdered rouge.That will make a hair splitting edge.
A long time ago I worked in pathology at a hospital and prepared the tissue samples for histology and autopsy.For microtome blades we used to hone them on a sheet of 6mm plate glass with a rouge and clove oil paste on it.We could get the surface absolutely flat and the edge down to 1/4 micron or less.Sometimes you would spend two hours lapping and honing a blade.A lot of work,but when you are making slices that are one cell thick it has to be SHARP.
For lapping wear rubber gloves and use your finger tips to move the blade around in a figure eight motion(Sort of like an Ouija board) .As the grit gets finer use only a diagonal draw(away from the edge).Honing on leather is a straight backwards draw.On glass you can hone in a figure eight pattern.The gloves give a good friction grip on the blade and prevent your fingers from getting sanded away and stained by the rouge.
Stacy
Click to expand...

Oh, my... Hey Stacy, what a valuable bunch of info... Thanks...
I was using leather also, but never heard of "rouge". I looked to dictionary, I learned it is a powder used to polish. Will a blue paste polish work. I only used oiled leather on 2000 grit hand rubbed blades.

I use WD40 for lubrication on wet&dry papers. I will try your soap and water advice..

These knives are designed by my brother-in-law (who ordered these), I may make and prefer bevel as triangle but this is his design & order. This way bladesmithing is a little less fun but we have to earn to live, right? :eek:

Thank you, all commenters.

Best wishes
Emre Kipmen
 
Emre- good job on the knife.There are several types of polish.The blue should work.Rouge is red iron oxide and in Europe may be refered to as such.Very fine silicon carbide powder (used by lapidary people and lens grinders) works,too.
Stacy
 
Sending it tomorrow. Handle is mortised tang ebony.
23tb3b



Stacy, I tried the leather honing method, it is now horrifyingly sharp. However here is some problem, the last sharpening on leather leaves some scratches on the mirror polish. Buffing is not a solution as dulls the edge somewhat. Any advice?

23td34
 
The polish you are using may be clumping together and making small grains that scratch the polish.Try adding more oil to the mix.Also ,it takes very little polish to hone a blade edge.More is not better.You may have accidentally transfered a piece of grit to the leather and it is putting the scratch on.Clean the leather and make sure there is nothing on it,recharge it with less polish and more oil and try again.Finally,the polish you are using(if it is the blue stuff you mentioned) may be coarser than rouge.In the final analysis its the edge that matters,not the polish on the blade surface.
 
bladsmth said:
...In the final analysis its the edge that matters,not the polish on the blade surface.
Click to expand...

I agree but also the look that sells the blade... Before I packed the knife to send I rubbed only the scratches with a dull 2000 paper. It has removed the tiny bastards but the polish gone, though 2000 finish is acceptable. I had to be careful not to rub the edge, it would damage the leather honing. Thanks,,,

BTW how did you like the handle, it feels weird for me but is similar to brother-in-law's design...
 
The handle looks fine.It only needs to provide a good grip to guide the blade through the reed at the right angle.For fun,have your Brother-in-law show you how to make reeds.It's fun,and challenging.
 
Cool! Not my ideal knife, but then I haven't played an instrument since high school! I realy like the no nonsence and elegant look to it. Very well done.
 
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