First DE razor?

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Jul 28, 2006
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I like the looks of the Parker 22r. But I'm torn between the 22r and the EJ89.
What's the better razor for a beginner?
Any blade recommends would be nice.
 
I use a Merkur 38c with Feather blades. The Merkur has a little heft to it but it's solid, easy to use, and shows almost no wear after using it for about 8 years now. There are places to order 200 Feather blades in bulk and they end up being less than 40 cents each. After trying over a dozen blades I settled on Feather as my go to.
 
As another alternative I'd recommend the Merkur 34C HD. It's shorter in length than the 38C and more maneuverable. I've been using it for years, and while called a beginner's razor this one does a great job with virtually any DE blade.
 
Another alternative would be an old Gillette adjustable like a Fat Boy or Slim. If you look around you can still find one in good condition and not too expensive. They are a razor you can grow with. I mean you can start out at #3 setting which is pretty mild and as your technique improves you can move up the numbers making them more aggressive and closer shaving.

I predominately use Feather blades but a lot of people find them too harsh and too sharp. I would not recommend them for a beginner. There are places you can buy sampler packs of different blades. That makes it easier to try different ones to see which suits you best. Once you are sure what blade suits you best there a some good deals on blades in bulk.

I don't know if you have these already or not but a good brush and good soap to make a good lather with is important too. A good lather contributes a great deal to a smooth and comfortable shave.

Bob
 
I agree with BobbyH, Feathers aren't forgiving. In the same class as KAI blades and more expensive than others, I'd suggest picking up a couple of (meant sample packs...) packs to see what works best for your/our face. I've settled on IP Reds (Israeli Personnas) which work beautifully. (Again for me!) :)
 
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I agree with getting a sample blade pack to trying them all and then go back to the blades you didn't like after you've had time to get used to DE shaving. My recommendation on a razor is get a handle that is not slippery after getting wet. It's all about a good grip and control IMHO.
 
I brought a EJ89 razor and a parker silvertip brush. The razor came with a 5 pack of derby extra blades. Guess I'll try these out first.
Been using col conk lime soap with my cartridge razor.
 
The EJ89 is a great head and can be tailored with desired blade. I have been through 25+ razors and it is my favorite. I did splurge on a Bulldog handle as the original is slick. You can always rub your fingers on an alum block for grip. If you find those blades a bit harsh, keep trying others until you find the sweet spot. I'd be willing to send you 4-5 different blades to sample. PM me if interested.

The knurling and weight of the Bulldog will turn that EJ into a top shelf razor.

41Ofja5PDFL.jpg
 
I brought a EJ89 razor and a parker silvertip brush. The razor came with a 5 pack of derby extra blades. Guess I'll try these out first.
Been using col conk lime soap with my cartridge razor.

I've been using shaving soap from Honeybee Sue (Honeybee Spa) on ebay for years. Back when I was reading badgerandblade.com she was fairly popular. The soap pucks are pretty cheap and they work great, but they do take a little technique to make a rich lather. The world of creams vs soaps is vast. You might give a few a try and see what you like best.

I just looked at Honeybee Sue's prices and they have gone up over the years. They used to be about $3/puck now they're up to $5.66 with shipping. Each puck tends to last me ~5-6 months.
 
The huge advantage of DE is that every combo of blade, razor, and soap is going to provide a unique profile. Sure it means that there is more work off the top, getting that combo right, but at the end result is well worth it. And where one guy might use an expensive blade for a few shaves, others get by on the cheapest for a couple weeks! So in a lot of ways, while there is a lot of advice out there, there isn't just a one size fits all formula, and I like that. I currently use a mid 1930s gillette open comb tech on my face, and a 7$ plastic gillette 7o'clock from india on my head. how's that for different worlds!
 
I agree with all posts - no bad selections here.

Personally I prefer vintage razors made of brass. I've tried several new and several vintage razors. I've settled into two - gillette slim adjustable (late 60's) and gillette "new" open comb (1930's). I've been using these two on a daily basis for about two years. Another popular gillette that is very forgiving is 1940's style superspeed. There are alot of these gillettes I mentioned available for about the same prices as new production entry level razors. Plus they retain their value - all the vintage razors I've purchased can be sold for the price I paid. I have flipped several in trying different styles.

I prefer the vintage stuff for performance, nostalgia, styling, and build quality. The examples I mentioned are very solid and will last forever. I will pass these razors on to my kids and grand kids.

I will post some pics tonight of the razors I mentioned.

As far as blades go - try a sample pack that includes Israeli Personnas and/or Feather. Once you find a blade that is comfortable - stick with it for a few months. The most important factor in DE shavings is technique. Technique is learned through practice and consistency. Try not to change too many variables (like blade brands) while you are getting started. If you find a blade that works ok, don't change it, stick with working on consistent technique. Once your technique is down, then try experimenting with blades.

I have settle on one brand - Feather. They work well in every razor I use. They always give me a comfortable shave. Some folks think they are too sharp for beginners. Personally I've never experienced an issue with Feather and I settled on them pretty early in my DE shaving journey. In my opinion, the sharpest blades are the safest. I've had more issues with less sharp blades. Blade preference is a very personal choice and everyone has their favorites or dislikes. I am not saying Feather is the best for you, but would say you should try them in your first sample pack along with Israeli Personnas.

Technique and blades are the two biggest variables. I have tried the most popular new and vintage styles, and I have not experienced huge differences in results. Each requires a slightly different technique, but the results are very consistent - smooth, easy shave. You can't go wrong with picking a popular new or vintage razor.

New:
Edwin Jagger
Muhle
Merkur
There is very little difference in the non-adjustable models in all these brands. Price difference are mainly for handle choices. Within the brands the heads are identical in most cases. All are good choices - just steer clear of adjustables and slant heads in the beginning. Slants are dangerous for beginners and adjustables are expensive.

Gillette Vintage:
'40's style superspeed
'60's slim adjustable - fat boy is ok also, just more expensive


Pick a popular razor, develop technique with a comfortable blade. Then go experiment and have fun.

- Rex
 
The EJ89 is a great head and can be tailored with desired blade. I have been through 25+ razors and it is my favorite. I did splurge on a Bulldog handle as the original is slick. You can always rub your fingers on an alum block for grip. If you find those blades a bit harsh, keep trying others until you find the sweet spot. I'd be willing to send you 4-5 different blades to sample. PM me if interested.

The knurling and weight of the Bulldog will turn that EJ into a top shelf razor.

41Ofja5PDFL.jpg

Thx for the offer. Pm sent.
 
I've been using shaving soap from Honeybee Sue (Honeybee Spa) on ebay for years. Back when I was reading badgerandblade.com she was fairly popular. The soap pucks are pretty cheap and they work great, but they do take a little technique to make a rich lather. The world of creams vs soaps is vast. You might give a few a try and see what you like best.

I just looked at Honeybee Sue's prices and they have gone up over the years. They used to be about $3/puck now they're up to $5.66 with shipping. Each puck tends to last me ~5-6 months.

I'll have to look into picking up a puck.
Soaps and creams are crazy overwhelming on which ones to try. I wish there was a place to get smaller sample. $3 or $5 soaps are not bad but $15 and up soaps without been able to at least smell them. It's hard to order a few at those prices.
 
I'll have to look into picking up a puck.
Soaps and creams are crazy overwhelming on which ones to try. I wish there was a place to get smaller sample. $3 or $5 soaps are not bad but $15 and up soaps without been able to at least smell them. It's hard to order a few at those prices.

When I first started out DE shaving I was so overwhelmed trying to figure out what to buy that I settled on the Honeybee Sue soaps because they were under $3/puck. I spent less than $10 for 3, and they lasted me a year and a half. There are so many choices out there that it's hard to know what to pick and what's best. There are tallow soaps and vegetable soaps and milled soaps and various types of creams and tons of badger brush types & shapes. It's easy to get lost. I have to admit I've liked the Honeybee Sue soaps so much that's all I've used for 8 years now. I get a great lather and a smooth shave with no irritation using her soap and Feather blades. I have one puck left so I might give a few other soaps or creams a try in 9 months when my current soap runs out. Badgerandblade is a great resource but there's so much information and so many things to try it's hard to know where to start.
 
Regarding soaps and creams, I'd have to agree that there is a huge and sometimes overwhelming variety to choose from. That said, some of the easiest to lather and producing a good lather that I have found are Arko, which you can now get in a tub besides the stick form, Palmolive in stick form or cream, Tabac puck and Proraso Blue tube cream. From personal experience you do not have to spend a fortune to get a very good performing soap/cream.

Bob
 
I use a Merkur 38c with Feather blades. The Merkur has a little heft to it but it's solid, easy to use, and shows almost no wear after using it for about 8 years now. There are places to order 200 Feather blades in bulk and they end up being less than 40 cents each. After trying over a dozen blades I settled on Feather as my go to.

I have the same setup. The Feather blades are terrific, and I just bought 50 for .50 each from Amazon. Great deal. Also, I just use canned soap from Wally World. For some reason, fancy soaps and brushes don't seem to give me a better shave. The de is fast, comfortable, and effective. And a bit of Nivea face cream, and I'm good to go. After 6 months of this, I don't feel the need to buy an expensive razor or English soaps. I shave every other day. And, after 2 weeks of shaving this way, there was WAY less blood in the bathroom! I learned fast, after a few careless mistakes.
 
Wow, personally I would never go back to using crap in a can shaving foam. I grew up using a brush and a shaving cream, Palmolive. Tried the then new shaving goo in a can and learned my lesson. You don't need "fancy" English soaps or shave brushes in the $200 to $300 range to get a good lather that is better than what comes out of a can. A sub $10 Omega boar brush once broken in and any of the inexpensive soaps/creams I mentioned in post #16 will produce a superior lather to the canned stuff, if you know how to create a good lather with them. A surprising number of new members on one of the shaving forums I belong to have trouble making a good lather at the start. You have to learn how.

Bob
 
...and you don't need 35 brushes and 100 razors. My grandfather did just fine with one of each. My favorite, for sentimental reasons, is his Gillette Slim.
 
It's definitely worth trying a decent soap or cream rather than goo out of a can. Face lathering with a brush feels good, can exfoliate and really lathers up for a great shave. The combination of good water and software is leaps and bounds above the dry foam out of a can.
 
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