first emerson! questions, comments

Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
7
Hi! I'm a complete new guy here. Lerked on the forums for about a month before deciding to get in on the fun.

Got my first Emerson -- a Mini CQC 7b.

It's replacing my EDC, a CRKT M-16, 02z (small tanto blade, zytel, AUS-6).

I wanted something short enough to be legally defensible just about anywhere -- I've had my 3.1" CRKT folder challenged several times at the airport (and this was well before 9/11), and I figure, 2.9" should be just fine (sigh, not anymore.) And excuses aside, I really liked the Emerson.

It's really quite a beaut. Doesn't look like much, but when you get down to the nitty-gritty, the build is all business, no show.

She cuts cardboard funny -- it tends to curve toward the flat side (opposite the grind) as she goes down. I guess this is because of the chisel grind? I know, I should've gotten the spear-point "A", but honestly, I like the look of this one better, I don't do a lot of utility work, and I've had clip point tips break off sometimes just doing regular work (albeit, not on 154CM.)

The liner-lock feels a LOT better than the one on my CRKT M-16. For one, the lock is a lot more secure feeling. Second, it locks in the same place whether I nudge it into place, or snap it open. (The M-16 had the odd habit of locking around the center when snapped open, making it REALLY hard to shut.) Last, the Emerson actually has a ball and detent, unlike the M16, which means that it will stay shut (surprise.)

I had to do the "rapping the spine on the table" trick to get the liner-lock fully settled in -- before the lock was engaging only on the tiniest edge of the shank (tang?) Much thanks to the Usual Suspects. Now it's engaging all the way, every time, all the time, and always in the same place.

I have a few questions, though.

There's a number on the blade: 056. Is this a serial number? I guess it's not a model number? Could this really be made so early? Maybe no one's buying the Mini's. I don't see anyone talking about them here.

The black teflon looks like it's already coming off the blade in one place... odd. Doesn't really bother me much, but they should just license the Glock Tenifer or H&K black coating. Those are mighty durable.

One problem -- she doesn't feel all that sharp so far. At least she won't push-cut paper and cardboard as easily as the CRKT. Does she generally need some extra touching-up from the factory? How do I sharpen it? All I have is one of those silly sharpmaker with the crossed ceramic rods. Will this be sufficient? The angle isn't standard, so what kind of sharpener do you recommend?

Is it better to get a diamond rod and a magic marker and learn it that way?

Also, it looks like the tip is rubbing against the liner when it's closed. At the pivot, it looks centered, but somehow the flat side of the tip is just barely touching that side of the liner.

What should I use to oil it? Light (like WD40), or heavier lubricants (like gun oil)

Thanks!

-Jon
 
Hi Hologon,

I'll try to field a few of these.

<b>There's a number on the blade: 056.</b>

Yes, this is the serial number, yes, I'm positive they've sold more than 56 of them, but you got lucky, don't question it, just grin! :D

<b>One problem -- she doesn't feel all that sharp so far.</b>
(evil laughter fills the room)

EKI's chisel grinds are famous for not feeling sharp, however, check this thread to learn how sharp they really are...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=175570

<b>Is it better to get a diamond rod and a magic marker and learn it that way?</b>

For a Commander, yes. For your CQC-7b, I don't think so. The tanto edge can be sharpened on a flat stone, sharpening each straight edge individually, then stropping each one individually. Works great and very simple.

<b>Also, it looks like the tip is rubbing against the liner when it's closed.</b>

Sounds like you need to tweak this just a little bit, but never having had to do it I'll leave that for someone else to describe.

<b>What should I use to oil it?</b>

I use Slick/50 Aerosol on mine, but most any good gun oil will do.
DO NOT use WD-40. WD-40 is not an oil, the WD stands for "Water Displacer" and will eventually gum up the workings of your knife requiring complete disassembly and scrubbing to get the "gunk" off of it.

Enjoy your new knife and congrats on scoring the low serial number!
:D
 
Welcome!!

What Ken said and I'll add the following

Quote Hologon:
The black Teflon looks like it's already coming off the blade in one place... odd. Doesn't really bother me much, but they should just license the Glock Tenifer or H&K black coating. Those are mighty durable.

"Tenifer" is a great process, but it has a couple of draw backs.

1. Tenifer is colorless. The Black coloring you see on the exterior of a Glock or Steyr pistol is actually a Black Oxide coating. Basically it's Parkerizing. It will and does wear off the metal parts. However, the metal underneath is treated with Tenifer and while it does look Grey or Silver, it will not rust in 99.9 percent of cases.

2. The EPA will not allow the Tenifer process to be done in the US due to it's byproducts. Both the Glock and the Steyr are made in Austria.

Quote Hologon:
She cuts cardboard funny -- it tends to curve toward the flat side (opposite the grind) as she goes down. I guess this is because of the chisel grind?

This aspect of the Chisel grind does put some folks off. (Right handed) Sushi Chefs use right side ground chisel ground knives to make straight cuts in overpriced fish nuggets. Emerson currently doesn't produce Sushi knives or any Kitchen knives for that matter. I mention this as I am sure someone else will bring it up.

EKI makes defense oriented products. In a pinch, these same knives can do a pretty damn good job when put to "Utility" tasks. The other night, one of our Dispatchers was making a sign for her daughters Birthday. "John" she calls out "You have a knife. Can you cut this for me?" I look and she wants the space in a big red, glittery letter "D" removed. I whip out my I&I Tanto and went to town. Did a pretty damn good job of it if I must say so myself. However, an Exacto knife or Box cutter probably would have made the job a touch easier.

Will a Chisel ground, defense oriented knife cut cardboard funny? :D You betcha it will. Does a number on flesh too!

Enjoy your new tool!

John
 
Originally posted by hologon
...There's a number on the blade: 056. Is this a serial number? I guess it's not a model number? Could this really be made so early? Maybe no one's buying the Mini's. I don't see anyone talking about them here. ...-Jon

Jon
I love mine too (CQC7B, GH, Year 2001 #83). I'm not sure why they don't come up more in the forum, maybe once the waved models are released (insert optimisim here).
I also have a regular sized (again optimisim) CQC7A and I have found it to be be a great all around cutter.
A word of warning, your first Emerson is rarely your last ( I am up to 4, since June).:)
 
I just got a P-SARK with the same blade rubbing problem you describe. The solution is to take the knife apart (thanks for making this so simple, Ernie), and bend the second detent (the one not on the liner lock) back a little bit (I used the tip of a small screwdriver wrapped in a handerchief). This will reduce the pressure on the side of the blade when closed, and keep the point from scraping the inside of the liner. Good luck, and email if you have any questions about how this is done.
 
Suspects,
What is this rap on the spine trick of which you speak?
Thanks,
Matt
 
Essentially, you take your knife, open it, make sure the blade is locked open, and then you make sure your fingers are out of the way of the blade's path if it closes, and then whack the spine hard against something. Supposedly this will test the sturdiness of your blade's lock.

Not sure I buy into that. I tend to use the sharp side of the blade.

However, I too have done this test with my Commander (Passed w/flying colors). Never had a problem with the lock on my knife. Never regretted getting it, and have no reservations about relying on it.
 
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