First ESEE ESEE-5 A few questions

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frontiersman

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Dec 20, 2006
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I just went to SMKW and picked up an ESEE5. The fit and finish and quality are awsome. I also picked up the molle back and pouch. I just ordered another kydex sheath from the ESEE site. What are some ideas for mounting the standard sheath for belt carry? Also I can't get a spark off a firesteel using the spine. Any suggestions?
 
You can't spark a firesteel with a coated edge, it's not hard/ sharp enough.

You can use the blade edge if needed, but I prefer to use a dedicated striker. a piece of hacksaw place works fine.
 
I also got a 5 a couple months back, haven't really done much with it yet. I took it on a couple of hikes but haven't really used it. A couple of my friends give me a hard time cause they say I'm afraid to get it dirty..... I got a black pouch to go on the font with the tin also.
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frontiersman said:
I just went to SMKW and picked up an ESEE5. The fit and finish and quality are awsome. I also picked up the molle back and pouch. I just ordered another kydex sheath from the ESEE site. What are some ideas for mounting the standard sheath for belt carry? Also I can't get a spark off a firesteel using the spine. Any suggestions?
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I carry my ESEE5 in a Spec Ops sheath, strong side right. The Molle back sheath is good too, I have one of those on my BK2. The Belt clip that comes with the kydex sheath, will work for regular carry, but if you are brush beating, it might come off. I haven't had that happen yet, so, treat it as "may happen", not "will happen".

As for the striking on the spine, you will have to remove the paint from the area you are interested in using and square the spine to get a good 90 degree angle. I think it would be easier to just have a striker, or use the edge to strike your firesteel.

Either way, you got a great knife, that will be there for you no matter what. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

Moose
 
if you picked up the serrated model, use one of the serrations as a dedicated striker -- or make a striker out of a short piece of hacksaw blade. (p38/p51 can opener works well, too)
 
I have 2 sheaths - 1 is the standard kydex with MOLLE-back adn pouch, the other is a custom Armorall Leather for scout carry.

I would only use the edge on a ferro rod in an emergency, it will dull the portion used very quickly - a suggestion, if you have to use the knife to do so, would be to clear off a section of the coating on the spine - the best solution, though, IMHO, is to use a dedicated striker. The serrations could be used to to this, too, but may groove the ferro rod.

On my Izula, I cleaned off a section on the tiny choil - you could do something similar on the 5 right next to the R in Rat Cutlery.
 
Have a Striker..... I'm not startin all you fires for ya.... oh a firesteel striker ... umm nevermind:D
 
I'd get the molle back. In fact I got two of them.

As for striker, I'd use a small two dollar striker. If you wanna use the knife, go for the edge in an emergency, or file the spine a bit.
 
Congrats on a great knife.

I like the paraord belt loop system myself. I also like the way the clip plate drops the knife down a bit but I don't like the clip itself. So I just took the clip off and drilled two small holes so I could use paracord belt loops on the plate.

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Yep, you aren't going to get a spark off the coated spine. Comes with a coated blade. I'd get a small dedicated striker and just keep it with your fire steel. Even with uncoated blades, I still keep a striker handy. In a pinch, I'll use the last bit of the edge of the knife.
 
adman04, do you have a firesteel loop on your sheath or is it just laying there? Can't really tell from the pic. Has anyone tried using the Bladetech rubber belt loops for IWB holsters? I'm thinking caring the knife in the kydex sheath between the belt and waistband.
 
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