First experience with Sic 120 grit stone and curious of opinions.

[Roikyou]

So I have a Manix 2 I was working on today, it's a seconds knife, meaning it didn't pass QC and I got it for a song and a dance pretty much. I think I know why it didn't pass QC.

In the mean time, I learned a new lesson about 120 grit Sic stones and not using tape to protect the knife. Here is a work in progress for the heel and the new starburst pattern I put on the knife, like it or not.

I've got some lower grit of the metallic CBN coming in, thinking those would be better for re-profiling or fixing issues like this. I most likely just didn't keep it clean, missed the swarf and it scratched up the finish. Good thing it didn't cost much but it's still a nice knife.

Yes, there's a double bevel as I work through fixing the bevel.

 

[David Martin]

I think it looks just fine. So, you went more obtuse than the original grind. The scratches are not that much. How much time to rebevel? DM

 

[Roikyou]

Its the third time using edge pro and first time with Sic 120. Spent two hours taking my time, learning.

Big beggest concern would be does all Sic stones cause this swarf that can scratch the blade if your not careful?

 

[miso2]

All silicon carbide stones I have make a lot of swarf and scratches the blade if not protected with tape.
You should also clean the blade and the stage often to remove grits.

Edge Pro #120 goes quite fast.
You may want to check if the stone surface is flat.

 

[David Martin]

Yes. My experience is the coarse grit scratches the most. The finer grits not so much. But I am speaking of the Norton stones not the Edge Pro.
I recall going the other way and changing a 110 w/ s30v steel from 18* to 15* on a IM313 a large Norton stone and it took me a long time.
This produced a lot of swarf which I saved in a jar for later use as stropping compound. It becomes finer. It wouldn't hurt to check your stone just to see if it's still level. DM

 

[basetta70]

You need to use tape in order to avoid swarf going inside the pivot area.
SiC stones should be used with oil to prevent glazing.
Naniwa SiC stone produce the highest rate of swarf ever seen.

 

[David Martin]

base, a good point. Yes, use oil. I thought he was. I've not used the Naniwa. The releasing of the grit is how SiC stones work. So, they will
produce lots of swarf as you grind. Not nearly as much on up to 240 and 500. DM

 

[Roikyou]

I've used chosera's but only as low as 400 and that swarf you want to build up on the blade to help sharpen (of course more on the bevel, not so much on the face of the blade). I think it's just getting used to the stones, not cleaning the table which I need to get in a habit of doing and I can try taping the blade, see how wet and any issues using tape.

I'm curious how the metallic CBN in lower grit which are suppose to be really clean, how they are for profiling and potential issues for scratching.

 

[darth_cholo]

checkout my post right below yours https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-around-the-heel-closest-to-finger-choil.1571447/

I had the same problem, I didn't take a before picture, but you looked like you had more work to do that I did, but same problem. I made mistake of not taping my mini griptilian when I did my first bevel regrind and lots of shavings go in there. I had to break down the knife to clean it.

 

[skyhorse]

I make jigs for my re-profileing a blade out of 2x4 lumber cut to what degree I want my primary bevel. Works great with extra coarse/coarse DMT plates.
Sometimes I use it with the fine/extra fine plates for sharpening super steel fixed blades also.
I have a belt sander and quality belts but seldom use it.

 

[Roikyou]

checkout my post right below yours https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-around-the-heel-closest-to-finger-choil.1571447/

I had the same problem, I didn't take a before picture, but you looked like you had more work to do that I did, but same problem. I made mistake of not taping my mini griptilian when I did my first bevel regrind and lots of shavings go in there. I had to break down the knife to clean it.

I did read your post, I had more issues scratching the face than I did with the shavings in the pivot, etc.

 

[Wowbagger]

After all my table pounding about jigs and the Edge Pro.
I hate reprofiling on my Edge Pro with soft stones.

Even this Shapton Glass 120 is Waaaaaaaaaaaaaay toooooo soft and gets softer and softer with use during the session. Garbage.

I know a coarse stone can be made that doesn't cup; this Shapton Pro 120 is amazingly good . . . doesn't wear much, never glazes . . . just cuts steel ! ! !


Still . . . when it comes to reprofiling, and that Manix surrrrre does need reprofiling (and thinning) I reach for my DMT Extra Coarse. Gets 'er done quick.


Scratches ? All mine are users, even though I am a perfectionist in most things, when it comes to my knives I have learned to relax and go : "oh well going to get scratched in use anyway". It's terribly freeing.

Reprofile by hand (with sharpie).
+
Make push cutting edges ON THE EDGE PRO ONLY.
= Happy Dog !

 

[darth_cholo]

I did read your post, I had more issues scratching the face than I did with the shavings in the pivot, etc.

Ahh. Got it.

 

[darth_cholo]

Worry more about swarf in the pivots. With pinned construction you'd be screwed because we'll the lack of screws.

On my mini grip it was like having sandpaper washers. No way to fix without taking apart and even then probably need new washers now.

Oh wait you have regar g10 manix

 

[Roikyou]

I'm going to try these guys tomorrow, the 400 or the 120 to finish the job, maybe the 50, who knows.