First Folder

Joined
Jun 4, 2023
Messages
773
Hi,

I am trying to make my first folder, its not as easy as I thought. :)

I have made the template for the blade and spring from 3mm aluminum and somekind of rudimentary jig to hold it all together.

My problem is that closed the blade does not touch the spring, do I just keep making and adjusting templates until its perfect or do I just leave a bit extra material on here and there and then file to final fit on the steel?

folder.jpg
 
The heel has been ground away so there is no metal toughing the spring when closed. You should leave extra metal there and adjust the rise and fall accordingly.

My advice to everyone making a first folder is to get a knife similar in size and shape to what you want (a cheap Chinese junker is fine) and take it apart. This will tell you a lot and give you basic templates to work from.
 
Thanks for all your kind advices,

I think I see it now, pin center to edge rad needs to be spring height plus spring deflection required.

It will be a few days before I get another look at this next template, I figured that if you get the pivot right, it more or less doesn't matter what the blade or handle shape is, that was a bit of a light bulb moment.
 
Steve Culver wrote a book "Slip Joint Folder Design and Building". It is probably available directly from him or Amazon. Only 20 pages or so but the illustrations and explanation clicked for me. Excellent book.
 
Steve Culver wrote a book "Slip Joint Folder Design and Building". It is probably available directly from him or Amazon. Only 20 pages or so but the illustrations and explanation clicked for me. Excellent book.
I have that book and it is good.
It has a one-on-one drawing of a slipjoint you can photocopy.
This one is based on that drawing.
(Having made it I don't like the sharp point at the bottom of the end of the handle)

20230722-103003.jpg
 
I have that book and it is good.
It has a one-on-one drawing of a slipjoint you can photocopy.
This one is based on that drawing.
(Having made it I don't like the sharp point at the bottom of the end of the handle)

20230722-103003.jpg


You did a good job on the handle, love that jigging, One of the things I like about knife making is that if something is not right you can always mod it.

I will be trying to make that one, its lovely.
 
Hengelo, beautiful job. I used his pattern to make one folder. What I was having a hard time getting my head around was the relationship between the spring and the tang. Steve Culver's drawings and explanation clicked for me. Personally I prefer a narrower blade because I often cut up apples and I also like the narrow blade for pickin' my teeth.
 
The "on switch on my grinder has gone down, hopefully the replacement will be here tomorrow. I just had to do something so dropped back onto the penknife, I found some 20x3mm O-1, I don't have much else that is surface ground, and thought it's just as easy to make five as to make one. So I got my understanding sorted (thanks again for the book recommendation) and did a bit of marking out.

first pen.jpg
 
Pivot pin End Float,

I have drilled a 3mm hole for a 3mm Pivot pin, and was not happy with the end float on the pin, I have re-done the hole on a vertical milling machine and although better I am still not happy, are you guys allowing end float on the pin and then hoping it will tighten later?

I am thinking I might be better making my own pivot pins, Am I being too pedantic?
 
I see Chris Crawford's patterns page was linked. He also has a DVD's page with a few really good "how to make a slipjoint" videos. I've got both of the the Luke Swenson DVDs, as well as the Craig Brewer DVD, and they're really good. I'd at least recommend the "Slipjoints with Craig Brewer" DVD and the "Slipjoints with Luke Swenson" DVD to start. I wouldn't say that they show you every little detail, but certainly enough to get started. Chris Crawford also has his own series of slipjoint videos, though I haven't seen any of them, so I can't speak specifically to those.
 
If you are building a slip joint the blade will tighten up when you put it under spring tension and peen it.
I use 3/32" pin stock and just before I peen them together I ream with a #41 reamer which is .003 oversize of the pin.
 
I see Chris Crawford's patterns page was linked. He also has a DVD's page with a few really good "how to make a slipjoint" videos. I've got both of the the Luke Swenson DVDs, as well as the Craig Brewer DVD, and they're really good. I'd at least recommend the "Slipjoints with Craig Brewer" DVD and the "Slipjoints with Luke Swenson" DVD to start. I wouldn't say that they show you every little detail, but certainly enough to get started. Chris Crawford also has his own series of slipjoint videos, though I haven't seen any of them, so I can't speak specifically to those.
Thanks for that Info Drew, I cannot "do" patterns and templates, I see their merit in some circumstances but I need to understand whats going on if you get me. I will definitely be looking over the videos!
If you are building a slip joint the blade will tighten up when you put it under spring tension and peen it.
I use 3/32" pin stock and just before I peen them together I ream with a #41 reamer which is .003 oversize of the pin.
Is three thou close enough to eliminate blade play Stan? the rocking about of the blade on the pin when open was my concern. It will be a slipjoint, good job I made five blanks, I will be lucky to get one out of them at this rate.
 
Tyrell knifeworks YouTube channel has a class series on a program called knifeprint. In one part of 1 of the classes he goes over designing a folder, then using the program to open and close your knife design and manipulate pivots and springs until it works correctly.

This ish is way above my head but I watched the whole series and packed it away in the back of my brain in case i need to re reference it later. I thought it was nifty at the very least. It is a very dry def class room environment, and I can't speak to the programs use, price or anything else but it seemed neat to this bonehead.
 
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