First Forged Knife

F

Frank Eaton

Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
362
Still working on it,but thought I would post anyway. It is spring steel, did the acid etch today. Did it with ferric choride, and some Perma blue. How do you control the look of the etch, or you at the mercy of the steel?????? It doesn't look bad to me, but kinda weird. Thats a damascus guard that is not done yet.
 
I can't see the blade well enough to say ... a close up would be better.
But it looks like ...did you degrease the blade throughly prior to etching with the FC? Just 'washing' it won't do, you've actually got to use some type of degreaser, such as brake cleaner fluid.

Paslode also makes a degreaser that won't harm plastic ...for their cartridge-fired nailguns. You can find it at Home Depot, but it's more expensive than plain old brake cleaner fluid.
 
You may have gotten the blade a little hot when it was getting thin. What color were you working it towards the last part of the forging? could be Jiminys correct also. I clean every thing between processes. Ther can be some strange reactions with steel. Fred
 
Good shape to it. The finish is kinda rustic looking, like it's been used and is developing the natural patina that comes with it. My first guess from the photo is that you didn't get it completly clean.

I like to wash in the bathroom sink with Dawn dish washing liquid, it's an excelent degreaser, and while the blade is still wet and clean dunk in the etchant. Remember, don't touch the blade, your finger prints will act as a resist. I like to let soak for 4-5 minits, take it out and wet sand with 1500 grit sandpaper, I'm wearing latex gloves to keep finger oils off and that orange/brown color off my hands, then back to the etch. I do that several times till I get the look I want. Sometimes I'll give the blade a light buff with a loose wheel and white compound to add a little shine.

I can't tell from the pic, but the notches in the tange look like there too deep, causing a week tange. Probably OK, but I'm a fanatic for strength. A good pass with a 36 grit belt and shallow notches are all that is realy needed. At least that's what I'm seeing in the photo, without looking at it in my hand it's hard to tell.

I like the finish as is, only thing is can you do anouther just like it? :D
 
Man that's a big knife! It blows me away you are able to forge a blade that good the first time out. You should have seen the one I tried to do... :rolleyes: There's a good reason some of us are stock removal makers! :D

Very nice, I haven't a clue what to add to the above ideas. Can't wait to see the finished knife, this is looking great.
 
thats nice! I degrease my blades with isopropal alchohol. When I drop the knife in to etch I bring it back up to make sure I get an even coating and that the oils dont disperse the ferric. Rub the ferric in a little then soak it for 5 min or so. Use gloves!
 
Forget the notched tang,especially up near the ricasso.There is a great likelihood that the tang will break,even with a big guard and a good handle.I have seen many knives that broke in the handle due to stress risers. To make the best of this one (since the horse is already out of the barn) draw a soft temper to the tang - right up to the ricasso.Better a slightly soft ricasso than a broken blade.
Stacy
 
Finally done, but ready to start another. I done this out of leaf spring (assume it is good steel). Guard is damascus, handle is Ironwood taproot. OAL is 15", blade is 10". I etched the blade in ferric Chloride/ gun blue and screwed it up (most of you were right it wasn't clean), and then redid it again in the same. I will probably still pin the handle, I don't trust it without. What do you think? Frank Eaton
 
Post a photo for us to look at. Thats an accomplishment to forge a blade of that size. Think big! There are to many tooth picks out ther allready. Musings of a bowie lover. Fred :D :D
 
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