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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
First fully finished knife
- Thread starter FXR1738
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,919
Welcome to Shop Talk. Fill out your profile so we know a bit about you. Location, age, occupation, hobbies, etc. all help us give better answers. It also may allow a local maker to offer you a visit and maybe some free handle materials and steel, plus help with HT and such.
Congrats on finishing your first knife. It is a cute little "necker" style, or what the Scandinavians call a "pocket knife". Overall shape is OK.
A few issues to address on your next knives:
The handle material , mahogany, isn't really a good knife handle choice. Besides being large and plain grain, it is pretty soft. Try a harder and more fine grain wood like maple or walnut.
The handle seems to be not even with the tang at the top. They should not have any gaps or spaces. This might just be the camera angle, and not a real problem.
On the front of the handle it is just flat and unfinished. Before assembly, tape the scales together with the pins in the holes (not on the blade). Sand the front and round it into the sides as desired. If applying a finish, apply it to the front and let dry before assembling the knife. This makes sure the front of the handle is smooth and even when the knife is done.
The tip is pretty round. On an oyster knife, that is good. On a EDC, a bit of a point is more useful. The spine should have been a little less curved as it dips to the tip.
The bevels ... well, there don't appear to be any bevels. The blade should taper from the spine to the edge in a more or less continuous bevel. It looks in the photo that you just put an edge on the flat steel. The edge also looks a bit "rounded". Use sharp files, and sandpaper backed with a block of hard wood while shaping the bevels and edge. If using a belt sander/grinder, use the flat platen. Using sharp files and backed sandpaper will help keep the plunge line crisp and clean.
The pins are a bit large for the knife size. 1/8" pins might look more in tune with the smaller knife.
The file work on the spine looks uneven. It rarely is really needed, and mostly is an accent or embellishment. If you put it on a blade, make it as even as possible. It doesn't need to be large notches or grooves, either. Very small lines or curs is just as useful for traction and more attractive. Most new makers would do best by not adding file work until they master all the other issues in making a good blade.
Final suggestion - Work on what is called "fit and finish". All the filing and sanding marks should be gone before HT, and the blade should be smooth and flat. After HT, sand smooth to at least 400 grit before assembly.
Post drawings and plans for your next one before starting to get help and comments before cutting the steel. Also, tell what materials you plan to use and how you plan to make the knife and do the HT.
Congrats on finishing your first knife. It is a cute little "necker" style, or what the Scandinavians call a "pocket knife". Overall shape is OK.
A few issues to address on your next knives:
The handle material , mahogany, isn't really a good knife handle choice. Besides being large and plain grain, it is pretty soft. Try a harder and more fine grain wood like maple or walnut.
The handle seems to be not even with the tang at the top. They should not have any gaps or spaces. This might just be the camera angle, and not a real problem.
On the front of the handle it is just flat and unfinished. Before assembly, tape the scales together with the pins in the holes (not on the blade). Sand the front and round it into the sides as desired. If applying a finish, apply it to the front and let dry before assembling the knife. This makes sure the front of the handle is smooth and even when the knife is done.
The tip is pretty round. On an oyster knife, that is good. On a EDC, a bit of a point is more useful. The spine should have been a little less curved as it dips to the tip.
The bevels ... well, there don't appear to be any bevels. The blade should taper from the spine to the edge in a more or less continuous bevel. It looks in the photo that you just put an edge on the flat steel. The edge also looks a bit "rounded". Use sharp files, and sandpaper backed with a block of hard wood while shaping the bevels and edge. If using a belt sander/grinder, use the flat platen. Using sharp files and backed sandpaper will help keep the plunge line crisp and clean.
The pins are a bit large for the knife size. 1/8" pins might look more in tune with the smaller knife.
The file work on the spine looks uneven. It rarely is really needed, and mostly is an accent or embellishment. If you put it on a blade, make it as even as possible. It doesn't need to be large notches or grooves, either. Very small lines or curs is just as useful for traction and more attractive. Most new makers would do best by not adding file work until they master all the other issues in making a good blade.
Final suggestion - Work on what is called "fit and finish". All the filing and sanding marks should be gone before HT, and the blade should be smooth and flat. After HT, sand smooth to at least 400 grit before assembly.
Post drawings and plans for your next one before starting to get help and comments before cutting the steel. Also, tell what materials you plan to use and how you plan to make the knife and do the HT.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 20,734
It's cute, try it again only fix the tings Stacy mentioned.
The black rings areound the pins are wherer the pins got hot on the grinder and they burned.
Try and skip that too
The black rings areound the pins are wherer the pins got hot on the grinder and they burned.
Try and skip that too