First Fully hardend Blade

blgoode

blgoode

Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,189
Well, here she is at 60 grit. Fully hardened 0-1 with all its 9" :D
First one had a slight bend...the way it came in barstock so I was trying to tweak it out a tad and SNAP!!!!

Needless to say that I had to remake that sucker:D
 

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About time you went to full hardened blades !! If you want to tweak do it at 400 F after temper or at that temperature or higher during quench after it passes the pearlite nose .
 
Once fully tempered you can also put the point end in a vise, heat to straw color at the center of the warp, overflex it a tad, and pour water on it. A Bill Moran trick, and it works. You may have to repeat to get it all out.
 
Sorry for the newb question.

Fully hardened?
 
Fully Hardened Blade? Thats a new one on me. it should be like glass, will be easy to break. A fixed blade shoud be hard edge and soft back. A blade heat treated properly will not be so easy to break. But thats the way I do mine in the shop. Have a safe day in the shop and God bless.

Barkes :)
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
 
aproy, He usually edge quenches [differentially quench] ,letting the spine cool slowly. Full hardened means to quench the entire blade rather than just the edge.
 
I started putting my O1 blades between alu. plates that I stand on right after an interupted quench and they have come out very straight. They are made of 1/8" stock and I have only done this to 5 blades so maybe I've just been lucky. More blades will tell.

Before I started this I would do the eyeball and bend technique while the blade was still hot out of the quench but never got what I was looking for in straightness.

Anyone else try this with oil quenching steels?

Rod
 
Sorry for the confusion... I differentially harden all my 0-1 blades. I had an order for a larger than nornal 9" bladed Camp knife. I can pull off a differentially heat treated 8" knife but 9" is a little too large for my methods.
Here is what I normally see after heat treating.
variousfeb2.jpg


Since I have started using some D2 I have to use my oven for more than a large tempering oven :)
This D2 blade is now at an RC of 61 and is 17" overall....and the handle holes are in it BEFORE heat treat. Glad I got the 22.5" oven now :)
tusk.jpg
 
While I am posting pictures I thought this one was cool :) It shows a good light gray color of the hardened steel. If I dont see that color...I heat treat again but thats just me.
2ndquench.jpg

AfterHT.jpg


then a 400 degree bath it goes for 2 hrs. Rest 1 hr then 2 hrs again.
temper.jpg
 
Hell..I am on a role with the pictures.
this is the knife that was in the 400 degree oven picture. Het treated with an O/A torch and oil quech.
stab2.jpg


I am testing the blade before moving on with the project.
Before a chop test I mark the area thats shaving sharp and focus all my chopping there.
beforechop.jpg


Chopping complete
Trough2x4.jpg


Still sharp :) So I dull that spot again and keep working on the knife:thumbup:
afterchop.jpg
 
Sweet Brian! I love the pics. Your grinds look great! Very very nice. It's amazing to me that you can make a 9" grind that nice. I still have problemss getting one half that size to look half that nice!:(
Matt Doyle
 
use fresh belts and time. In the beging I was zipping the blade accross the belt. Not I sort of grind in slow motion giving the belt time to work. If the blade gets too hot, it means I need a fresh belt or a lower grit. I shape with 36, then 60, and let 120 get the blade tuned up. 220 to take surface scratches out, then 400....

On the D2 I am going to 120 then a purple med scotch bright belt :thumbup:
 
mete said:
aproy, He usually edge quenches [differentially quench] ,letting the spine cool slowly. Full hardened means to quench the entire blade rather than just the edge.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mete. Newb out.:thumbup:
 
Really nice lookin stuff Brian :thumbup: . The recurve ground blade next to the red grinder motor is beautiful. What is your quenchant ? Thanks again man ! :)
 
Leatherface, no...I wont be at that show. Just cant get away from the shop. Weekends are my main working days;)
 
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