First inlay - whats wrong

cbr900son

cbr900son

Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
1,010
This is my first snake skin inlay - something just seems off. Can anyone see anything wrong?

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The bottom part of the snake skin is centered, but the top part is not. That's throwing it all off IMO.
 
rayban said:
The bottom part of the snake skin is centered, but the top part is not. That's throwing it all off IMO.
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That might be it! It looks nice and is a nice sheath but Im always aiming to improve and something was throwing me off about it and couldnt find it. Im sure there is probably something else. Any other comments or opinions are more then welsome! Only way to learn is by finding mistakes!!!!
 
William,
You need to use a grooving tool along the edge of the sheath before stitching. This "groove" will put the thread slightly below the surface of the leather. Bill........
 
BoxerBill said:
William,
You need to use a grooving tool along the edge of the sheath before stitching. This "groove" will put the thread slightly below the surface of the leather. Bill........
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I did groove it and its pretty well in the groove. Ypu can see the grove where I didnt stitch at the top right above the inlay. I also ran the stitch wheel over the stiches just to push it down nicely.
 
Hi. Nice sheath. If you want a tip, something I've learned from Paul, your cuts need to be cleaner and straighter. The contrast of the light inlay against the black leather makes the panel cut out look a little wandering. With such a high contrast you really need to use a ruler or something to make those lines perfect.
Other than that, I agree that the centering of the large "dots" should be in reference to the top part of the sheath not the tip. They have to follow the "centerline" of the sheath.
 
SBranson said:
Hi. Nice sheath. If you want a tip, something I've learned from Paul, your cuts need to be cleaner and straighter. The contrast of the light inlay against the black leather makes the panel cut out look a little wandering. With such a high contrast you really need to use a ruler or something to make those lines perfect.
Other than that, I agree that the centering of the large "dots" should be in reference to the top part of the sheath not the tip. They have to follow the "centerline" of the sheath.
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Thank you/ ill definetly take note of that. I kind of noticed it myself. What it was is in the corners (i used the original cutout piece) the snake skin made it just thick enough to where i coulnd't get the corners to fit perfectly in there. I thought about using a beveler but this is my first inlay and wasnt sure if that would help or hurt the look.
 
It does look like the thread is sitting on top of the leather, a stitching groover will help that immensely.

Also, when you cut the window be very cautious with getting the lines straight, unfortunately an inlay will show off any inconsistencies in your lines both inside and outside of the frame. A decent set of calipers might help you with that. Sorry to repeat Stuarts advice, but its the most important area of inlay work and shows the most when something is off.

This is just a personal preference, but rounding the bottom of the sheath will make it look much more professional and less prone to dings when dropped on that tip.

The first inlays are always lessons in patience and a huge learning curve. Your openness to listen to advice and take constructive criticism is a huge step in getting where you want to be. I dont know how many sheath makers ask for advice and then proceed to get their feelings hurt when advice is offered.
 
Thanks! I need to take better pics and get closer. Past couple sheaths I had been working on getting the stitches in a nice groove and I guess it doesnt show well but the inlay I knew was sub par tho to average joe they thought it was nice. I still want to improve and not settle for average or "OK". I use calipers to trace my shapoe but cutout with a razor utility knife thing which I think between that and not using a ruler etc is the next thing I need to focus on more. What do yall cut your leather with? Is a utility knife acceptable or should I oook into something else?
leatherman said:
It does look like the thread is sitting on top of the leather, a stitching groover will help that immensely.

Also, when you cut the window be very cautious with getting the lines straight, unfortunately an inlay will show off any inconsistencies in your lines both inside and outside of the frame. A decent set of calipers might help you with that. Sorry to repeat Stuarts advice, but its the most important area of inlay work and shows the most when something is off.

This is just a personal preference, but rounding the bottom of the sheath will make it look much more professional and less prone to dings when dropped on that tip.

The first inlays are always lessons in patience and a huge learning curve. Your openness to listen to advice and take constructive criticism is a huge step in getting where you want to be. I dont know how many sheath makers ask for advice and then proceed to get their feelings hurt when advice is offered.
Click to expand...
 
A utility knife is perfectly acceptable as a primary cutting tool, keep it sharp though, I have a sharpener hanging on my bench and run the blade across it pretty regular. Keeping that blade silly sharp is the key to nice cuts. I've been using a utility knife since day one and have never regretted it.

I also use an Xacto #11 blade and holder for fine cuts, but it can get away from you very easily. I dont know how many times I've ran off the line in the blink of an eye. Cussin a blue streak. :p

Something about the wider blade on the utility knife helps it to keep straight, but a bear to do a curve.

I've used other knives through the years but keep going back to my old standbys, my old Stanley utility knife and my other old Xacto.
 
You know i should just change the balde for every sheath then. Dont know why I dont. the blades are so cheap for them anyway.
 
Even then, only a small percentage of the blades come out of the box sharp enough to smoothly cut leather. I dont know if its that they leave a burr on the blade but a few strokes on a stone or ultra fine diamond rod makes them screaming sharp and ready to sail through the leather. I've tried a few different brands and they all are that way, or maybe I'm just a fussy s.o.b. :p

I find that my blades start to drag after 3 or 4 big cuts, couple of strokes on that ultra fine rod and its good to go again. I even touch up my Xacto blades as well

Maybe I'm cheap, I can get several weeks use out of a blade this way, as a full time sheath maker I always look for cost savings. Little things like blades can nickle and dime you to death.
 
Ill remeber that netx time! Thanks for the advice. Now to order some instructional cideos and keep learning!
 
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