First Katana

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coyotes72

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Feb 23, 2016
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Looking at getting my first katana, what would be one that is actually functional and won't break if i use it. Preferably at or under 700, if anyone has any personal experience with one, that would be great. Thanks
 
Hanwei/Bugei has some good options in that price range. If it doesn't advertise the specific steel type, hardness, etc, stay away. Stay away from no-name "damascus" or "high carbon steel" pieces, often marketed "as hand-forged, hand-folded." There are some other options, and tons of threads on here on exactly this topic.
 
coyotes72 said:
Looking at getting my first katana, what would be one that is actually functional and won't break if i use it. Preferably at or under 700, if anyone has any personal experience with one, that would be great. Thanks
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Jon @ onihonto.com is a real sword afficinado and would probably be happy to offer some advice. I had dealings with him on numerous occasions and he really seems to be a great guy.
 
Cheness Tenchi. Tough as nails and not unattractive. It will also leave you with extra cash for a better (looking) one once your technique improves. It would be sad to have your first, and a $6-700 one at that, take a set.
 
Cold steel warrior series katana. Solid 1055 carbon steel, with a very good HT. No hamon, tho! That may be a deal breaker for some, tho, understandably. The geometry is excellent, however, and feels like a solid weapon in the hand.
 
coyotes72 said:
Looking at getting my first katana, what would be one that is actually functional and won't break if i use it. Preferably at or under 700, if anyone has any personal experience with one, that would be great. Thanks
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What do you want to do with it?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Personally I'd go Hanwei.
They generally have pretty good reviews.
I have one of their 'shinto' models, and it's been fantastic.
 
I have the Shinto as well. Very nice sword. Got mine some time ago, not sure if the specs have changed any. T10 steel, IIRC, which is a W1 equiv. Does have a decent hamon, nothing fancy. Compared to the Cold steel, it is a tad lighter, the blade geometry isn't quite as "beefy" as the Cold Steel Warrior. I also have the Tiger Katana....and that is a very sweet blade. I wouldn't use that one tho....it's too pretty! The folded K120C powder steel is a beauty, and the blade is long.

My go to sword out of the three, for real world use against a "target", is hands down the Cold Steel Warrior. It's the sharpest out of the three, the steel is 1055 so it's incredibly tough. And the weight/geometry ..... IMHO of the three swords is going to be "best" in case of a bad situation.
 
I can say buy what ever you want.
I have respect for a fine sword. (Meaning expensive).
But I can't (personally ) justify actually using it due to ruining the Polish forget the bend you "might" have.

Cutting "will" scuff your polish with every cut (might not be noticeable but it does) meaning you will need a polishing (ain't cheap) and your wrap will loosen (unavoidable with cheap swords )
To have a tsuka re wrapped isn't cheap either.


Basically if you buy a 700 dollar sword and use it for a year are you going to want to invest at least half that to get a new polish and a rewrap?.
I didn't so I bought a raptor Kitana with the o kissaki for around 200 or under .

And I beat the he'll out of it with no bends (my form ain't perfect either) hence the ain't s :) but I did manage to dull the shit out of it and destroy the handle from pure use.

Did I get my money's worth yes
Is it a good representation of a real sword not really much like all swords in this range it's not "alive" people know what I mean.

I thought about upgrading to a nicer sword but I know with plain kata type usage the factory wrap will fail with time if your actually swinging your sword with convition. Ymmv

Edit oh yeah the point. If you plan on actually using it make sure you get one that fits you! It can be dangerous to practice with a blade that's too long for you (while drawing) .
And don't be upset when things loosen up and dull just be prepared for it
 
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I don't know what your usage will be, but, if you are talking full water bottle or ESPESIALLY tatami omote, you WILL bend your sword if you do not have edge alignment training and practice; this is NOT a might with a sword not designed to take the punishment. Hanwei has a great selection (I love my PPK), but swords like my Tiger Classic (I know, way over the $700 limit) would NOT be my choice for learning or beginner practice. In the end, you must have parameters as to hamon or no, length (overall and blade), purity of Ito maki, etc. Then look for a tough (another subject) steel and proper dimensions. If all else fails, and you are willing to take your chances (understandable) get one you REALLY like the look (and feel, if you have that luxury) of and have fun. :) That is, after all, what it's all about. ;)
 
So i have decided on either the chenness kaze or tenchi, or the ronin dojo pro, i like the natural hamon on the kaze, but not how it would be easier to bend. I like the steel on both of the chenesses, but I don't like how the tenchi has a fake hamon, but it is harder to bend. I like that the ronin dojo pro has a silk ito and they are honest about the lack of a hamon, but I would prefer the 9260 blade steel of the cheness.
 
If you go with the Tenchi, I suggest the bo-hi (fuller) version so that you can hear when your edge alignment is correct (it is also a mite faster). The main thing is, whatever you get, ENJOY your new sword! :thumbup:
 
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5160/9260 spring steel blades
Depending on your budget lowest would be a Hanwei raptor, Dragtonking series on CASiberia or sbg sword shop(cheaper)
Forget Cheness because it is a hit and miss with QC and has the lowest quality fittings amongst all
HSTS 9260 tsunami series
Bugei 5160 series (usually not in stock and most expensive of all i wrote)
Or huawei swords on ebay, Huawei is highly praised by owners
 
Pretty sure the whole hear the whistle if it's aligned is a myth. Edit you can make that sound without a bo hi which is for lightening if I'm not mistaken

Yes with a DEFERENTIAL TEMPER. You run the risk of taking a set with a bad cut :) my raptor was not :)
 
Also look up injury with sword knives. Just sayin :) if you Wana have fun with it and not mess it up go with spring.

If your serious to learn get a differential that fits YOU ask your INSTRUCTOR
But any good school won't let you touch a blade without a good bit of Bokken
Practice. Not being a Dick promise :)
 
Teppojutsu said:
Pretty sure the whole hear the whistle if it's aligned is a myth. Edit you can make that sound without a bo hi which is for lightening if I'm not mistaken

Yes with a DEFERENTIAL(sic) DIFFERENTIAL TEMPER. You run the risk of taking a set with a bad cut :) my raptor was not :)
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If the swing of the sword is not correct, the blade will not whistle, bo hi or no bo hi.

Depending upon the steel and heat treat, a set with a bad cut could easily happen, I have had swords with differential harden that might be virtually impossible to bend under regular cutting conditions, lately, it's a Hanwei Mantis.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Uh-huh so is it supposed to whistle on every" well executed cut"? Not sure how often I see top cutters whistle

Yea Howard Clark L6 katana is pretty resilient
 
The tachikaze or "whistle" or "shriek" sound will be heard when the proper alignment is used through a swing; it will be more distinct if there is a bo-hi (no, that is not the purpose of the bo-hi but a result). It is usually masked by the impact with a target and is most useful in practice swings where no target is struck. Poor edge alignment is a major enemy of a sword cutting properly and also not bending (taking a set), so the tachikaze is a very good measure of whether a practitioner has the proper angle and speed. I'm not sure where some people get their opinions, but, as in many things, physics rules in this area. Although Cheness does have poor fittings (which can be changed out; though with a difficult tsukamaki), the Tenchi is hard to beat for toughness at it's price point. The Mantis is a VERY nice katana, but a bit out of the OPs price range (I know that wasn't your point, Steven; just sayin')
 
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That's why I say "does that mean people like James Williams. Tony alvarez (spell) and other cutters. Are making bad cuts with no whistle?

Edit. Is it Too fast to hear ? I am interested not trolling. Sorry for taking the thread the wrong way. Last post
 
katanas said:
TAlthough Cheness does have poor fittings (which can be changed out; though with a difficult tsukamaki), the Tenchi is hard to beat for toughness at it's price point. The Mantis is a VERY nice katana, but a bit out of the OPs price range (I know that wasn't your point, Steven; just sayin')
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I can't stand Cheness swords because of the fittings and shape to the tsuka primarily.

Teppojutsu was talking about differential hardening and bending, was just indicating that this would not likely happen with my Mantis. For newbies cutting, I'm very partial to the Raptor line myself. It's everything it needs to be and nothing more. Hamon is nice for study swords, but not necessary for a credible cutter.

Teppojutsu said:
That's why I say "does that mean people like James Williams. Tony alvarez (spell) and other cutters. Are making bad cuts with no whistle?

Edit. Is it Too fast to hear ? I am interested not trolling. Sorry for taking the thread the wrong way. Last post
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The whistle is usually most evident when doing suburi with full extension and arc...James and Tony often cut with attenuated arc and will not get tachikaze at that point, and no it isn't a bad cut.

However, with a full extension kesa cut or jodan cut the tachikaze will often be evident.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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